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Quick Links: Kitchen Remodeling | Basements | Decks & Patios

Shelving And Storage For Work Shops

Build sawhorses, shelves, tables and storage for the work area.

Stackable Sawhorses

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We designed these sawhorses for strength, yet they stack compactly. We built them from construction-grade 1x4s (for the legs) and 1x6s (for the top), glue and a handful of screws. They cost only about $6 each.

We made our legs 32 in. long, which put the horse height at about 30 in., the height of a standard table. Adjust the leg length to your own comfort level. The top 1x6 is 32 in. long, but again, adjust its length to fit your needs.

The trickiest part is cutting the sharp (15-degree) angle on the top of each leg. The best method is to clamp at least four 1x4s together and cut them on edge (Photo 1). Mark the cutting line on all sides because you have to flip the 1x4s over to complete the cut. A standard Speed square has angle marks that’ll help you measure the 15 degrees. Then cut the legs to length at a 75-degree angle (15-degree saw setting) so they rest flat on the floor.

If you don’t have a table saw, screw the cleat stock to your workbench, using spacers (Photo 2). That’ll keep the piece stable while you cut the angles with a circular saw. Note that the narrow side of the cleat is 2-1/8 in. wide. Make sure the legs are perpendicular to the 1x6 when you assemble them (Photo 3).

1. Clamp four 1x4s together, mark the 15-degree angle along their edges and cut them all at once. Flip the bundle over and finish the cut from the opposite side.

2. Temporarily screw a 1x4 to your workbench and mark the cleat cuts. Set your saw to 15 degrees and cut the angles. Unscrew the board and cut off 5-in. long cleats.

3. Center and screw the cleats to the 1x6. Predrill, then spread glue and screw the legs to the 1x6 and cleats. Keep the edges flush.

Multi-Use Shop Cart

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This shop cart is like a whole workshop on wheels. It’ll roll right where you need it and serve as a mini workbench, an extension table for the table saw, a tool stand and more. It’s solidly built from less than one sheet of 3/4-in. plywood ($25) and four 3-in. swivel casters ($7 each). All of the materials are available at home centers. The first one will take about three hours to cut out and build, and the second one about two hours. You probably won’t be satisfied with one!

Cutting List
KEY	QTY.	SIZE & DESCRIPTION
A	4	3/4" x 3-3/4" x 29" (side legs)
B	4	3/4" x 3" x 29" (end legs)
C	2	3/4" x 6" x 30-1/2" (base frame sides)
D	2	3/4" x 6" x 17" (base frame ends)
E	1	3/4" x 18-1/2" x 30-1/2" (shelf)
F	2	3/4" x 3-3/4" x 30-1/2" (top frame sides)
G	2	3/4" x 3-3/4" x 17" (top frame ends)
H	1	3/4" x 20" x 32" (top)
J	2	3/4" x 3-3/4" x 20" (wheel support boards)
K	4	3" casters

FIG. A: CART DETAILS

Click Image to enlarge.

To build it, follow these seven steps:

1. Cut out the parts shown in the Cutting List. Use a circular saw and guide to keep the cuts straight. Cut off one end of the plywood at 30-1/2 in. long. Then cut parts A, B, C and F from this piece.

2. Glue and nail the top frame together (F and G).

3. Assemble the base frame (C and D) and attach the bottom shelf (E) with glue and nails. Sand the shelf edge with a belt sander, if necessary, to make it flush with the frame.

4. Glue and nail the leg parts together (A and B) as shown in Photo 1.

5. Round over all the sharp plywood edges with a random orbital sander or a sanding block with 100-grit paper. Softened edges are easier on your hands and less likely to give you slivers. Pay special attention to the long edges on the legs, the top edge of the bottom shelf and the lower edges of the top frame.

6. Attach the assembled legs to the bottom and top frames (Photo 2). Then glue and nail on the top (H). Note that the top overlaps the top frame and rests flush with the outer edges of the legs.

7. Flip the cart over and add the wheel support boards (J). Screw on the casters and you’re ready to roll (Photo 3).

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 3

Tubular Storage

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Here’s a great storage solution for long skinny things like wood moldings, leftover pipe or even a long level. Buy a 12-in. diameter cardboard concrete form from a home center. They cost about $7.50 for a 4-ft. length. Slide in plywood dividers and drive a few 1-1/4 in. screws through the cardboard to fix them in place. Then tuck the tube up between joists and anchor it there with steel hanger strap ($1 at home centers). For longer stuff, you can buy tubes up to 8 ft. long from dealers who specialize in concrete products (“Concrete Products” in your Yellow Pages). You could also choose smaller diameter tubes (10 in. or 8 in. depending on the local stock) for a tighter fit.

Universal Clamp Rack

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This clamp rack is surprisingly simple, considering how many different types of clamps it holds. It’s made from 32-in. lengths of 1/2-in. metal conduit suspended between a couple of 3-ft. long 2x6 brackets. You can buy everything at a home center for about $8.

We shaped the ends of the 2x6s for easy mounting to the wall, but you don’t have to make yours this fancy. Cut the conduit to 32-in. lengths and drill 5/8-in. holes 3/4 in. deep in the wood sides. These dimensions ensure that the brackets can be mounted directly to studs that are 16 in. on center. We spaced the pipes 12 in. apart and 3 in. out from the wall. However, position the conduit according to the types of clamps (and other stuff) you want to hang there.

Knock-Down Utility Table

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When you’re cramped for workbench space, you can’t beat this super-stable plywood table. You can assemble it in about two minutes, knock it apart just as fast and store it flat against a wall in a stack less than 6 in. thick. It’s easy to make from 3/4-in. plywood and four short 2x4 blocks (Figure A).

Cut the slots for the interlocking legs with a circular saw or jigsaw. Cut them slightly wider than 3/4 in. You don’t want them to interlock too tightly or you won’t be able to get them apart. Notch the bottom edges, leaving 6-in. long feet to reduce rocking on uneven floors.

Screw the 2x4 blocks to the top corners of each base piece. Then predrill the blocks and drive screws into the top to make it extra secure. For simple operations, you may not even want to screw the top down.

FIG. A: TABLE DETAILS

Cutting List

Base: 3/4" x 36" x 48" (2 pieces)

Top: 3/4" x 48" x 48"

Blocks: 2x4 x 4" (4 pieces)

Photo 1

Photo 2

Stud Shelving

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FIG. A: SHELF DETAILS

Open studs along a wall offer a great opportunity to install this strong, highly versatile shelving system. The heart of the system is a simple sandwich bracket that you can quickly make from scraps of 2x4 and 3/4-in. plywood (Figure A). Glue and nail them together, then bolt them to the studs with 3/8-in. bolts, either 3-1/2 or 4 in. long.

Before mounting the brackets, snap a level line across the studs to keep them exactly in line. A 3/4-in. x 12-in. wide shelf can span about 30 in. without undue bending under normal loads, so plan to install a bracket on every other stud (16 in. on center). Use a torpedo level to mount the bracket perfectly level, then drill the 3/8-in. bolt holes (photo right). Mount the bolts, drop on the shelf board and you’re in business.

Our thanks to American Woodworker, our sister magazine, for supplying these tips.

Table Saw Worktable

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Turn your table saw into extra workbench space with a piece of 3/4-in. plywood. Size the plywood to fit the table saw table, and nail and glue on just enough 1x2 edge strips for a snug, no-slide fit. Use this table for lightweight and low-impact jobs. For heavy pounding, use a proper workbench or the floor.

CAUTION:
Unplug the saw and crank the saw blade below the table surface before using this top.

From The Family Handyman - February 2005

 

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