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Outdoor Living Room (page 2 of 3)

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Steps 1 - 11

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1. Assemble a rectangular template to mark the outer perimeter of the posts and beams. Use the dimensions from your plan and tack together 2x6s and a 2x8 ridge board. Square the template using the 6-8-10 squaring method shown. Nail 2x4s across the corners to keep the template square.

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2. Mock up the roof framing against the wall. Cut three 4-1/2 x 9-1/4 in. plywood rectangles to simulate the beams and ridge and use 2x6 rafter stock to lay out the rafters. Position the beam templates by drawing vertical lines on the siding with a 4-ft. level and a straight 2x4, using the perimeter template as a guide (Photo 1). Measure halfway between the templates and draw a vertical line to mark the center of the roof. Tack each 2x6 rafter to the siding with a couple of 16d nails crossing at the center line. Tack the ridge template at the point where the rafters cross, keeping the top two corners even with the rafter tops.

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3. Dig holes to frost depth and pour 6-in. concrete footings in the bottom (Fig. B, p. 54). Then reposition the perimeter template precisely and recheck squareness. Nail the lower post assemblies together with 16d hot-dipped galvanized nails spaced every 4 in. Drop them onto the concrete footings and toenail the assemblies to the template corners. Then plumb and brace the posts in both directions and backfill the holes, packing the soil every few inches.

4. Cut and assemble two lower and upper slip forms (used for post trim later; Fig. B, p. 54), then slip them over the posts and let them rest on the patio.

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5. Trace around the beam templates and the bottom of the ridge templates (Photo 2) and pull them free. Mark the tops and ends of the rafters and remove them. Snap chalk lines 3 in. above the rafters to allow space for the decking and step flashing (Photo 20). Set the circular saw to cut just through the thickest part of the siding and cut out the 3-in. wide strip, leaving the sheathing intact.

6. Snap chalk lines between the tops and bottoms of the two beams and cut the ledger recess through the siding and sheathing. Cut one end of a 10-ft. 2x10 ledger to match the roof angle, hold it in place, and mark and cut it at the center point. Nail the ledger in place with two 16d galvanized casing nails into each wall stud, except for the studs on each side of the joist hanger position. Repeat for the other ledger half.

7. Bolt the ledger into the studs on each side of each joist hanger location with three evenly spaced 1/2 x 5-in. lag screws with washers. Nail triple 2x10 joist hangers to the ledger at each beam location with 1-1/2 in. galvanized joist hanger nails, then screw through the large hanger holes with 1/2 x 2-in. lag screws. (First drill 3/8-in. pilot holes for all lag screws.)

8. Extend the posts with 2x4 and 2x6 cedar so that they project beyond the top of the ledger, nailing every 4 in. with 16d casing nails up to the beam height. Cut a 2x10 beam member to length and shape the end. Rest it in the joist hanger, level it and mark the height on the post. Cut only the post 2x6s at that height with your circular saw. Cut the center 2x4 9 in. higher (Fig. A).

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9. Nail the outer 2x10 beams into the post’s center 2x4 with three 10d galvanized box nails and into the joist hanger with 1-1/2 in. joist hanger nails. Plumb and brace the posts as shown. Center and nail the two temporary ridge supports, one to the house and the other to the post braces. (See “Bracing as You Build,” p. 52.) Cut, place and tack each ridge member in position atop the ridge supports, then recheck the ridge for level and center. Brace the ridge with a couple of 2x4s nailed to the ridge and each beam. Nail the ridge members together from both sides with 10d galvanized box nails.

10. Cut an approximate 25-degree angle on the first 2x6 rafter and hold it in place against the ridge. Use a 2x4 to scribe the exact angle on the rafter. Use the rafter as a pattern to cut all the 2x6 rafters for that side. Repeat the process on the other side of the ridge.

11. Lay out the rafter positions on the beams and ridge as shown in Fig. A and toenail the rafters into the ridge with three 16d galvanized nails (where they’ll be hidden by the middle board of the “sandwich”). Nail hurricane tie-down straps to the middle side of the rafters and to the inside of the beams with 1-1/2 in. galvanized joist hanger nails.

Tip
Sight down the beams to make sure they’re straight before installing the rafters. Straighten if necessary and hold them in place with braces until the rafters are on.