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Granite tiles are as easy to install as ceramic tile, except for the edges. We show you a slick jig that makes it simple to cut strips for the edges and the backsplash.In this story, we’ll show you how to install an alternative—a solid-granite-tile countertop that costs less than $30 per sq. ft. for all of the materials you’ll need (or about the same cost as a professionally installed plastic laminate countertop). That’s for a wide variety of tile selections that cost less than $20 each for 12-in. square tiles, but be aware that you can pay more than $50 each for premium selections.
Natural beauty, durability, resistance to
heat and a sense of permanence are the hallmarks of a granite countertop. But
ordinarily solid-stone countertops are a pricey proposition ($65- $100+ per sq.
ft.) due to the special tooling and installation required.
The trickiest part of installing stone tile countertops is cutting a crisp, clean countertop “nosing” (or front lip). This difficult task is simple when you use a homemade jig (Fig. B) that’s clamped to a tile saw’s sliding table to cut perfect 45-degree miters.
To finish off the gap at the backsplash of the counter, we’ve designed a unique, easy-to-install detail (Fig. A and Photo 16) that efficiently uses the leftover tile trimmings from the nosing cuts.
Tile Store MaterialsFIG. A COUNTERTOP DETAILS
To calculate the number
of tiles you need, multiply the lineal footage of 24-in. wide countertops by
2.5. Then add as many tiles as required to cover wider peninsulas or islands
and subtract for cooktops, stoves, sinks or other built-ins. Keep in mind that
you’ll probably need partial tiles for filling around built-in appliances
as well as at least a half dozen more tiles to allow for breakage and miscuts.
Have extra tiles on hand; you can always return the leftovers.
In addition to the tile, you’ll need:
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A 25-lb. bag of thinset mortar— gray for dark tiles or white for light tiles ($10).
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A 5-lb. bag of unsanded grout for the tile joints ($5). (Unsanded grout is easier to work into the narrow 1/8-in. wide grout lines and you won’t risk scratching the stone while grouting.)
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A quart of polished-granite sealer (about $25) to treat the tile and grout surfaces a week or so after grouting the tile (Photo 19). It will help prevent stains from penetrating the porous surface and enhance the natural beauty of the stone.
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A roll of fiberglass mesh tape for taping the Denshield seams (Photo 8).
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A 1/4-in. notched trowel for spreading the thinset (Photo 7).
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A 4-in. or 6-in. putty knife.
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A 2-in. margin trowel ($5, Photo 15).
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A honing stone to soften sharp exposed edges ($7, Photo 13).
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A grout float for spreading and embedding the grout (Photo 17).
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Color-matching caulk to substitute for grout at inside corners (Photo 18).
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Plastic spacers for supporting the backsplash tiles (Photo 16).
At first it might seem intimidating to work with tile that’s made from rock, but it’s not difficult. While you can’t score and snap it like ceramic tile, it cuts easily on a conventional diamond tile saw. In fact, you’ll make all of your cuts that way. Other than that, you’ll use the same tools, materials and techniques needed for ceramic tile except for the grout and sealer types.
In addition to standard carpentry tools, you can rent or buy the tile-cutting saw. A middle-of-the-road tile saw like the one we show costs about $275, or you can rent a contractor-quality saw for $45 per day. If you’re really organized and have underlayment installed and all the tile laid out and planned ahead of time, you can do all the cutting in one day. But if you want to take more time, it may be worth buying a saw, especially if you plan on tiling floors or perhaps a bathroom in the future. Also buy four rubber-padded mini-clamps (“QuickGrip,” $14 per pair, Photo 9) to hold the tiles to the jig. Steel C-clamps may crack the tiles. But use a couple of small C-clamps to secure the jig to the saw table.
Lumberyard MaterialsIt’s not hard to estimate your lumberyard purchased materials. Here’s what you need:
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3/4-in. plywood underlayment: You’ll need a full sheet of 3/4-in. plywood for every 8 ft. of countertop.
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Tile backer: Buy a 32" x 60" sheet of Denshield (or cement board if Denshield is not available) for every five lineal ft. of counter.
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1x4 cabinet blocking: Pick up enough 1x4s and 2x4s to line the top of the cabinet backs, cabinet ends and areas where plywood splices will occur (Photos 3 and 4).
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1x3 backsplash trim cap: Buy enough 1x3 trim lumber that matches your cabinets along with the necessary stain and finish to cap off the finished backsplash (Photos 11, 16 and Fig. A).
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One 1-lb. box of 1-in. roofing nails for nailing down the Denshield.
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One 1-lb. box of 2-in. screws for securing the plywood to the cabinets and the 1x4 to the wall studs.
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