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Elegant Half Bath

Remodel a bathroom with a new faucet, vessel sink and console table.

By Jeff Gorton

From The Family Handyman

Images from this article

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Layout and Steps 1 -2

The vessel sink and wall-mount faucet cost more than standard off-the-shelf plumbing fixtures. But the combined cost of the table and plumbing fixtures we show is about the same as if you purchased a top-quality vanity cabinet, solid-surface vanity top and high-end faucet. And you’ll save at least half the cost of a professional bath remodel by doing the work yourself.

We’ll show you how to mount and connect the vessel sink and how to install the wall-mount faucet. And just in case your drain doesn’t line up or the plumbing vent gets in the way of the recessed faucet valve—don’t worry, we’ll show you how to relocate them too.

Benefits:

• Transform the look of your half bath in three weekends.

• Add a spacious feel by replacing your vanity cabinet with a table.

• Combine the classic look of an old-fashioned vessel sink with the sleek style of a modern wall-mount faucet.

• Save wall patching work by using these easy-to-clean granite wall tiles.

There are a few things you’ll want to check out before you start. If you live in a cold climate and your plumbing is on an outside wall, don’t use a wall-mount faucet because the valve and pipes could freeze. Use a standard-mount faucet instead. And second, look inside your vanity cabinet. If your water supply pipes come up from the bottom of the cabinet, you’ll have to reroute them into the wall. This could be a big job depending on how your house is constructed.

To complete our bathroom redo, we installed a new prefinished wood floor over the old vinyl and covered the wall behind the vanity with 12-in. square granite tiles. The granite cost us about $12 per sq. ft., but similar tile is available for about $4 per sq. ft. Plan on spending about $6 per sq. ft. for the wood floor. We spent $600 more on light fixtures and a new toilet.

Before you start this project, check with your building department. Most locales require a plumbing and electrical permit for this type of work. Then arrange for inspections before covering plumbing or electrical work with drywall.

Go Ahead and Cut a Big Hole in the Wall
After removing the old vanity cabinet, you’ll have to cut open your wall to install the faucet valve. There’s a good chance you’ll also have to relocate the drain, vent and light fixtures, so go ahead and cut a big hole (Photo 2). We removed a 4-ft. wide section of drywall. Turnoff the power at the main circuit box before cutting and keep your cut shallow to avoid nicking electrical cables. If you tile the wall like we did, you won’t have any patching to do. Just screw a new piece of drywall to the new 2x2 cleats (Photo 14) and tile over it (Photo 15).

Marking In Place Is Better Than Math
Rather than trying to calculate the height of the drain and faucet, it’s easier and safer to assemble your table and sink (Photos 3–5) and mark the center of the drain and faucet heights directly (Photos 6 and 7). Before you cut the hole in your table, make sure the back edge of the bowl will be a few inches from the wall. Also measure from the front of the table to make sure the front of the hole will clear the table apron below.

Next mark the center of the table on the floor. Plumb up from this mark with a level to locate the center of the drain and faucet spout (Photo 5, 7 and 8).

You Don’t Have to Be a Pro to Shift Plastic Drain Lines
The faucet valve mounts in the space between the wall studs. With the faucet and drain centers marked, it will be obvious whether you’ll have to move the plumbing. You may also have to remove a portion of one wall stud. Photo 9 shows how to reframe the opening. shows one method of relocating a drain and vent using 1-1/2 in. plastic PVC pipe and fittings. Your plumbing may not look like this. If you have steel rather than plastic pipe, use a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade to cut the pipes. Run the new pipes in PVC and connect to the steel pipe with transition couplings. Here are a few other rules for reworking your drain and vent plumbing:

• Use clamping neoprene transition couplings to connect steel pipe to plastic pipe or to connect black (ABS) pipe to white (PVC) pipe.

• Continue the vent pipe vertically or at a 45-degree angle to at least 6 in. above the top rim of the vessel sink before running it horizontally.

• Use a long sweep 90-degree elbow where the drain turns from vertical to horizontal (Photo 10).

What Should I Buy?

Click image to enlarge.


Almost any piece of furniture can be modified to accommodate a vessel sink, as long as it’s about 30 in. high and at least 18 in. deep. (Once in place, the edge of this piece must be at least 15 in. away from the center of the toilet.) If you choose a dresser, drawers may have to be rebuilt to provide clearance for the drain and trap. Console tables, sofa tables and dressers all seem to be about the right size.

The finish on some wood-topped tables may not stand up to puddled water. For extra protection, we recommend adding two or three coats of polyurethane or other water-resistant finish over the existing finish.

Look through catalogs to find fixtures you like and make note of the model numbers. Remember to include a special drain that’s compatible with your vessel sink. Since the P-trap assembly is highly visible, splurge and special order one with a finish to match your faucet (Photo 16).

• Kohler K-2200 Vessels Conical Bell Lavatory with Satin Biscuit finish ($350)

• Kohler K-T196 Falling Water wall-mount faucet ($570) and K-307-K-NA valve ($150)

• Kohler K-7702 Pop-up lav drain ($175)

• Kohler K-3449 Folio toilet ($270)

• Vincent Brass BT 3014-15S P-trap assembly

• Forecast Radius light fixtures ($150)

• Dal Tile 12 x 12-in. Flamed Granite tiles Prices shown are list prices.

• The table we used is no longer available. Shop for a console table about 30 in. high and at least 18 in. deep.

Buyer’s Guide
The Plumbing Express, (800) 856-6641, www.plumbingexpress.com.

Kohler, (800)456-4537, www.kohler.com Forecast Lighting—(800) 839-9001 for a lighting retailer in your area

Vincent Brass—available at plumbing retailers

Simply Follow Instructions for Mounting the New Valve
The instructions included with our valve specified fastening the valve to two 2x4 blocks spaced 5-5/8 in. apart. It’s critical that you mount the valve the correct distance back from the finished wall surface.Otherwise your faucet trim and spout may not fit properly. Check the instructions, since this distance will vary by faucet brand. To make sure of this dimension, we completely assembled the valve and trim and measured the distance from the mounting bracket to the back of the handle and spout trim. If you’re tiling the wall, add the tile thickness to your calculation.

Bending Soft Copper Reduces the Number of Solder Joints
Complete the plumbing work by connecting the hot and cold water lines to the valve (Photos 12 and 13). We used copper pipe, but in areas with corrosive water, consider CPVC. Rather than using rigid copper, buy a length of 5/8-in. outside diameter (O.D.) soft copper (Type L) and bend it to fit. You’ll save time and potential leaks by drastically reducing the number of fittings needed. Buy a bending spring (about $5) and slip it over the copper before you bend it to avoid kinking the copper (Photo 12). When soldering, protect walls and pipes with a heat shield (Photo 13). When finished, turn on the water and test the valve according to the instructions included.

Finally, add nail-plates wherever supply pipes or drains pass within 1-1/2 in. of the face of the framing. This prevents accidental punctures from nails and screws.

Relocate Lights While the Wall Is Open
If you add tile to the wall, make sure the face of the electrical box is no more than 1/4 in. behind the surface of the tile. At the same time, adjust the location of the boxes if necessary. Make sure they’re level with each other and are located an equal distance from the center line of the table. Purchase the mirror and light fixtures ahead of time and hang them temporarily to create a full-scale mock-up. From this, measure the height and the distance between the light fixtures and relocate the existing boxes to these positions.

Now’s a good time to upgrade your bath wiring, especially if your house is more than eight years old. Ask your local electrical inspector what’s required. If your bathroom has aluminum wire, or you’re unsure whether there is a proper ground for your light fixtures, call an electrician.

Caution: Before you do any electrical work, turn off the power at the main circuit panel. Test the wires with a voltage tester to make sure they’re off.

No Patching Required If You Tile the Wall
Screw cleats alongside the two outside studs as nailers for the drywall. Cut drywall to fit the opening and screw it to the studs and cleats. Now you’re ready to set the wall tile. Start by planning the layout. Center the tiles side to side to maximize the size of the cut tiles along the edges (you may not have to cut any tile at all). We started with a full 12-in. tile at the floor and cut the border tiles to 8 in. wide. Draw layout lines and set the tiles in premixed latex tile adhesive (Photo 15). Use spacers between tiles to create a space for grout, or set the tiles tight together as we’ve done. Practice by dry-laying the tiles on the floor first to see how well they fit together.

Caution: Aluminum wiring requires special handling. If you have aluminum wiring, call in a licensed pro who’s certified to work with it. This wiring is dull gray, not the dull orange that’s characteristic of copper.

The flamed granite tile we used is very hard. You’ll need to rent a wet-cutting tile saw for the straight cuts (about $40 per day). Holes for the faucets have to be cut precisely. We used a 2-in. diameter abrasive-coated tile-cutting hole saw ($6 at home centers or tile retailers). It took about five minutes to drill each hole! Most tile shops will cut these holes for you for a minimal charge. Make a cardboard template to ensure exact hole location before cutting the tile.

Careful Planning Makes Final Connections a Snap
Screw the table to the wall and connect the trap to the sink drain (Photo 16). Then install the faucet trim (Photo 17) to finish the plumbing part of your job. We also installed a new toilet and light fixtures. Paint the walls and hang shelves, a towel bar and a paper dispenser, and your bath redo is complete.

Click image to enlarge.
1. Disconnect the trap and supply lines to the sink and pry off the vanity top. Locate and remove the nails or screws that hold the cabinet to the wall and remove the vanity cabinet.

2. Saw along the edge of the studs on both sides of the drain to at least 48 in. high. Tear off the drywall in this area.