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Ask Handyman

By Carl Hines

From The Family Handyman

How can I avoid a flood in my upstairs laundry room?

Q I’m moving my laundry room to the second floor. I’m worried about a potential overflow. What precautions should I take?

S. Hudson, E-mail

A Washers and floods go hand in hand and can cause huge damage to the laundry room floor and the rooms below. Take these four steps to prevent a disaster if an overflow or leak occurs.

1. Install a recessed washer box (about $35 at home centers ) in the wall directly behind the washing machine. This recessed box provides connections with shutoff valves for the water supply hoses and a drain for the washer’s discharge hose. For easy access and servicing, mount the bottom of the box so it’s about level with the top of the washing machine’s control panel. Be sure to choose a box with the shutoff valves included.

2. Install a washer tray under your washing machine. Set the tray tight against the back wall framing and run the drywall down to it. Our tray’s drain does not connect directly to the house’s waste line. It’s an indirect line that dumps into a laundry tub, floor drain or even outside through the wall. If the machine leaks, the water will be caught in the tray and safely drained away. Washer trays are available at home centers for about $20.

3. Make sure the supply hoses are in good shape. Check older hoses for cracks and replace if necessary. If you’re buying new hoses, consider the no-burst ones; these rubber hoses are sheathed with braided stainless steel. Be sure to use new hose washers. Connect and hand-tighten the hoses to the supply valves and the washing machine inlet. Turn the water on and check for leaks. If necessary, tighten further either by hand or with pliers.

   

4. Turn off the water to the supply hoses when the washing machine is not in use for additional peace of mind. This is easy to do with a single-lever shut off such as the one shown at right.

What will keep my concrete pond from leaking?

Q In 1962, I built a small pond of poured concrete. I poured it in sections, but the joints where the sections meet have always leaked. I have tried many different types of cement to seal them, but nothing has worked. Any suggestions?

S. Szewczykk, Gilbsonia, PA

A The joints in the concrete are opening and closing due to seasonal temperature changes. Because any rigid filler will crack, use a flexible urethane caulk. Many home centers and lumberyards carry products like this (one choice is Vulkem 116, for a local distributor call 800-321-7906, www.tremcosealants.com).

First make sure that the joint is at least 1/4-in. wide. If necessary, grind it out with an angle grinder or circular saw fitted with a masonry cutting carbide or diamond blade. Be sure to cut at least 1-in. deep. Wear eye protection, ear protection and adjust mask.

Next, wash out the top inch of the joint with a jet of water from a garden hose. Be sure the joint is debris free and then let it dry. For joints 3/8-in. wide or larger, push a polyethylene backer rod into the joint, leaving 1/2 in. for the caulk. Fill the joint flush to the surface with caulk and immediately tool the joint (try a small plastic spoon) to ensure a good bond to each side of the concrete. Let the caulk set up for 24 hours and then fill up the pond.

What are arc-fault interrupters?

Q I’m remodeling my house and I’ve heard talk about needing to use these new arc-fault circuit breakers. What are they for and why do I need them?

M. Douglass, E-mail

A To prevent fires, arc-fault interrupters (AFCIs) are designed to trip when they detect low-level arcing (also called an electrical short) that won't trip a standard breaker. The AFCIs fit into the same slots of your electrical service panel as the standard breakers they replace.

As of January 2002, the National Electric Code (NEC) requires AFCIs in all 15- and 20-amp bedroom branch circuits. Not all states have adopted the AFCI requirement, so check with your local building officials. Does this mean you’ll have to replace old circuit breakers in your house? Only if you’re building a new addition or undertaking major remodeling. Again, check with your local building officials for exact local requirements. New AFCIs cost about $40per breaker at home centers or through electrical supply companies.

How can I keep my towel bar from coming loose?

Q I installed a new towel bar last weekend, carefully following the directions and using the hardware that came with it. The towel bar has already pulled loose from the wall and I swear nobody hung from it. What did I do wrong?

S. Lundeen, E-mail

A I’m afraid your only mistake was using the hardware that came with the towel bar. Throw out the plastic anchors that came with it and use the toggle type shown in the photos at right. The supplied anchors only grab the edges of the drilled hole. This toggle anchor opens wings up behind the drywall. For information on another toggle-type anchor see “Towel Bars That Stay Put,” Feb. 1999, p. 50.

1. Mark the locationof the mounting plate screw holes on the wall. Drill a 5/16-in. hole completely through the drywall. If you hit a stud, then forego the anchor and drive the screw into the wood.

2. Squeeze the wings of the anchor together and push it into the hole until the face of the anchor is flush with the drywall. A light tap with a hammer may be necessary to make it flush.

3. Push a medium-size nail(8d) through the anchor hole to open up the wings behind the drywall. A firm push may be required. You should feel the wings pop open.

4. Drive the screws snugto secure the mounting plate. Use a hand screwdriver to prevent over-tightening and loosening the anchors.

1 DRILL 5/16'' HOLE

2 PUSH TOGGLE INTO HOLE

3 PUSH WINGS OPEN WITH A NAIL

4 DRIVE AND HAND-TIGHTEN SCREWS

Correction!

The Classic Handy Hint in the July/August ‘02 issue (page 108) mistakenly states that you can use dampened toilet paper for makeshift hearing protectors. Although many a pro has done this in a pinch, we do not recommend this practice. The toilet paper can easily fragment and pieces can stick in your ears. It’s better to keep a few pairs of foam ear plugs ($2 at home centers or hardware stores) in your shop in case you misplace your regular protectors.

Art Direction• GREGG WEIGAND

Photography• BILL ZUEHLKE

From The Family Handyman - September 2002