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Vinyl Tile Floor (page 2 of 2)

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Steps 4 - 14

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4. Loose-lay tile to check the size of cut pieces. Snap a chalk line across the center of the room, parallel to the most prominent wall and aligned with the edge of a tile. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method shown to snap a line perpendicular to the first, also aligned with the edge of a tile. Darken the lines with a straightedge and pencil.

5. Measure from the perpendicular layout lines to mark the exact location of the border. Snap chalk lines for the border and darken them with a pencil.

6. Spread a thin, even layer of VCT adhesive with a 1/16-in. x 1/16-in. notched trowel. Spread glue over half the floor, starting at the wall and working up to the center layout line. Allow the glue to dry until it’s clear and tacky.

7. Press the full tiles into place along the perpendicular layout lines, starting with the first tile at the intersection. Proceed in a stair-step fashion to keep the tiles aligned. See Photos 12 – 14 for instructions on how to make special decorative tiles.

8. Notch tile to fit around border corners. Mark the width of each cut needed to form the notch. Warm the tile about one minute with a heat gun until it’s pliable. Then cut the tile using a utility knife and steel straightedge.

9. Cut partial tile to butt up against the penciled border line. Attach a stop to your VCT cutter and cut enough tiles to complete the entire row. Press the cut tiles into place.

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10. Lay the border starting with full tile. Mark and cut partial tile to complete each section. Continue to measure and cut tiles to fill the space between the black border and the walls and cabinets.

If you must reposition or remove a tile, warm it with a heat gun until the glue softens enough to allow the tile to move. Then slide it into place or pry it out with a stiff putty knife.

11. Nail a wrap-down metal carpet strip over the tile at doorways to carpeted rooms. Push the carpet to the back of the strip with a putty knife and trim it flush with a sharp utility knife. Use a hammer and block of wood to bend the metal down and pinch the carpet.

12. Draw a circle on the face of a tile with a compass. (Use a few layers of masking tape to protect the tile at the pivot point; see Photo 13). Heat the tile from the backside with a heat gun set on “high.” Keep the tile moving over the heat source until it’s flexible (about 60 seconds). Wear leather gloves to protect your hands from burns.

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13. Cut a circle from the hot tile by deeply scoring the line with a utility knife. BEND the tile (reheat if necessary) and peel the cutout shape from the surrounding tile. Smooth the rough edge of the circle with 60-grit sandpaper, beveling it slightly to the backside.

14. Use the cutout circle as a pattern to cut a hole in the second tile. Hold the circle tight to the second tile and accurately score a line around the perimeter with a utility knife. Heat the tile and deepen the scored line with the utility knife. Reheat the tile if necessary and flex it to remove the cutout section. Smooth any ragged edges with a utility knife and press the first circle into the hole.

From The Family Handyman - November 2001