Back To The Family Handyman
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Step by Step Photos
Click image to enlarge.
1. Pry off the
exterior siding. (Cut it to fit later.) Then cut the 2x10 ledger board to
length and align it with a level chalk line about 3 in. below the door sill.
Tack it in place with 16d galvanized box nails.
Click image to enlarge.
2. Mark the
joist positions according to your plan. Then predrill 3/8-in. holes for the
1/2-in. lag screws. Lag-screw the ledger board to the house, using two screws
between each joist. Slip the deck flashing in place. Align each joist hanger
with a joist scrap, and fasten one side with 16d galvanized nails. Purchase
special joist hangers for the ends that have the flanges turned
in.
Click image to enlarge.
3. Cut and
temporarily tack the outer frame of the deck together with 16d galvanized
nails. Level the frame, using blocking to support it. Next, square the frame by
shifting the outer edge side to side until the diagonal measurements are
equal.
Click image to enlarge.
4. Mark frame to accurately
position them. Paint a your footing locations, using the deck cross with spray
paint. Extend the cross beyond the diameter of the footing so you can easily
keep the hole aligned as you dig. Disassemble the frame and dig your
footings.
CAUTION: Call your utility companies and have the utility lines marked before you dig the holes.
Click image to enlarge.
5. Insert
forming tubes into the footing holes, then reposition the deck frame, again
leveling and squaring it. Tack one side of the mudsill anchors to the frame.
Slide the forming tubes up to the bottom of the frame and screw them to a pair
of temporary 1x4s to hold them in place. Fill the tubes with concrete, smooth
the tops and let the concrete harden overnight. Check the frame for level the
following morning (the concrete may shrink slightly as it cures), shim if
necessary to level, and double the beams where required. Then permanently
fasten the mudsill anchors to the frame with joist hanger
nails.
Click image to enlarge.
6. Cut and
install the 2x10 joists, sliding them into the joist hangers. Drive 1-1/4 in.
galvanized joist hanger nails into the joists and 16d galvanized box nails into
the ledger, filling all the nail holes in the hangers. Nail blocking between
the joists with 16d galvanized nails, alternating between the sides formed by a
chalk line snapped across the center line of the deck.
Click image to enlarge.
7. Assemble
the 2x6 knee walls according to the plan using 16d galvanized nails. Sheathe
the outside with 1/2-in. treated plywood, securing it every 8 in. with 8d
galvanized box nails. Snap chalk lines on the plywood at every stud to make
sure your nails hit solid wood.
Click image to enlarge.
8. Tip the
walls into place and plumb them, shimming under the bottom plate as needed.
Nail the bottom plate to the deck framing every 16 in. with 16d nails.
Nail the overhanging plywood into the deck framing with 8d nails. Then nail the inside plywood sheathing to the walls.
Click image to enlarge.
9. Staple No.
30 asphalt-impregnated felt to all the wall surfaces. Then install metal lath
horizontally with the cup of the extrusion aiming upward. Nail it every 8 in.
with 1-1/4 in. galvanized roofing nails, wrapping the corners a minimum of 12
in. and overlapping each sheet a minimum of 4 in.
10. Mix the mortar according to the directions on
the sack and scoop it onto a hawk. Hold the hawk against the wall, and slide
the mortar onto the wall with a steel trowel. Firmly press the mortar into the
lath, completely covering it by a good 1/8 in. Work fast. Have a helper mix
mortar while you spread it.
11. Scratch
horizontal lines into the mortar with a rake (or scarifier) while the mortar is
still soft.
Click image to enlarge.
12. Install
the decking. Drive two 16d galvanized casing nails through the 2x6 decking into
each joist. Set the nails slightly below the surface with a nail set. Start at
the step of the lower deck, work toward the house, then align the boards of the
upper deck to the lower and work away from the house. Straighten bowed boards
by drawing them toward you with a chisel driven into the joist. Then nail,
using a nail for a spacer between boards.
Click image to enlarge.
13. Snap level
chalk lines on the walls every 6 in. as rough guidelines. Apply the stone,
starting with the bottom corners and working your way up and out, staying in a
stair-step shape. Spread a pile of stones nearby to provide a wide
selection.
Click image to enlarge.
14. Butter
each stone by spreading mortar on the back. Press the mortar into the pores of
the stone as you draw the trowel toward you, drawing off the
excess.
Click image to enlarge.
15. Drop a
dollop of mortar onto the buttered stone and evenly spread a 1/2 to 3/4-in.
layer, completely covering the back.
Click image to enlarge.
16. Press the
stone into place, giving it a wiggle to seat it against the wall. Tap the stone
with the handle of the trowel for slight adjustments. Leave about a 1/2-in. gap
between stones. Using the point of the trowel, clean away excess mortar that
oozes out into the joint.
17. Cut the stone as needed with a hand-held
grinder equipped with a diamond-tipped masonry or tile blade. Firmly hold the
stone on plywood with your fingers well away from the blade.
Click image to enlarge.
18. Squeeze
mortar into all joints, filling them completely, using a grout bag. Start from
the top and work your way down. Twist the bag slightly with one hand as you
squeeze with the other hand to force the mortar out of the bag. Let the mortar
set long enough to hold a thumbprint.
Click image to enlarge.
19. Rake the
excess back about 1/4 in. from the face of the stone with a 3/8-in. pointing
trowel. Then brush loose, crumbled mortar away with a whisk
broom.
Click image to enlarge.
20. Set the
concrete caps in a bed of mortar on top of the wall. Tap them down to make the
tops even. Rake away the excess mortar with your pointing
trowel.
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