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Project 1 - Multipurpose Towers
| STORES: Tons of small stuff |
FEATURE: Keeps items organized with versatile shelves, bins and drawers |
Project 2 - Plywood Storage Rack
STORES:
|
FEATURE: Rolls out for easy access |
Project 3 - Compact Shovel Rack
STORES:
|
FEATURE: Holds lots of tools in little space |
Project 4 - Peg-Board & Bin
STORES:
|
FEATURE: Displays most-used tools for instant access |
Garage Storage Project 1 -Multipurpose Towers
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This versatile storage system is the ultimate all-purpose odds and ends organizer for your garage. It’s composed of tall, shallow towers that hold a wide variety of adjustable shelves and bins. By installing the towers along the same wall, you can add a range of special storage features between them—notched shelves for skis and fishing rods, pairs of dowels to corral balls, brackets for the trolling motor, and more. The tower shelves can be crafted into bins, tote boxes or almost any other accessory you can imagine. In this section, we’ll show you how to build the basic tower framework and a few custom accessories. You can devise variations to fit your storage needs.
The materials for the three towers cost just short of $200. The towers and shelves go together relatively quickly—you can easily build three in a day. Allow an additional day for 10 or so bins, depending on how detailed you choose to make them. They’re well worth the extra effort.
The cabinets are constructed of 3/4-in. birch plywood ($30 for a 4 x 8-ft. sheet). The cleats and back are made of 1/2-in. MDF (medium-density fiberboard; $14 for a 4 x 8-ft. sheet).
FIG. A TOWER DETAILS
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Materials List
You’ll need the following materials to build three towers:
- Two 4 x 8-ft. sheets of 3/4-in. birch plywood
- Three 4 x 8-ft. sheets of 1/2-in. MDF (medium-density fiberboard)
- One 4 x 8-ft. sheet of 1/2-in. MDF for bins
- Three 6-ft. pressure-treated 2x4s
- 1 lb. of 1-in. drywall screws
- 1 lb. of 2-in. drywall screws
- 1 lb. of 3-in. drywall screws
Assembly Details
Start by cutting the plywood for the cabinet, following the dimensions we show in Fig. A. Use a circular saw and a straightedge for accuracy. Then cut the tops and bottoms of the cabinet 1/2 in. narrower than the sides (Fig. A). Because of the cutting waste, you can only cut four 11-7/8 in. wide pieces from a 4-ft. wide sheet of plywood. One 4 x 8-ft. sheet will make two tower frames with sawdust left over.
Next cut a sheet of 1/2-in. MDF (Fig. A) to make the back, cleats and shelves. After cutting the cleats and back, you’ll have enough stock remaining for four shelves from each sheet. Cut your shelves to length after you’ve assembled the cabinet. Then double-check your measurements and cut the shelves to fit a little loose so they’ll slide easily.
Make the jig we show in Photo 2 to cut the cleats fast and accurately. Screw a 24-in. 2x4 perfectly perpendicular to the edge of a scrap of plywood. (Check it with a framing square.) Then screw a 1/4-in. stop block to the 2x4 so the cut-off distance is 5-3/8 in.
CAUTION:
Don’t use a stop block thicker than 1/4 in. or the cleat might pinch the saw blade, making the saw kick back.
Cut 12 cleats from each 11-3/8 in. x 8-ft. length of MDF, leaving about 30 in. for a shelf. Screw the cleats to the plywood sides, positioning your first cleat 3/4 in. up from the bottom edge to allow space for the plywood bottom. Recess the drywall screwheads in the MDF so the bins won’t get hung up on them. MDF is so hard that the screws will snap if you try to drive them flush. Create the recess with a counterbore bit, which you can buy at any hardware store for about $2. Position the top cleat down 3/4 in. from the top of each side panel to leave room for the plywood top.
To simplify attaching the cleats to the second side, clamp both sides back to back and flush top and bottom. Use a spacer long enough to bridge both sides. This ensures that all your shelves and bins will line up.
TIP:
Before you remove the clamps, label both sides so you don’t confuse them with another pair.
The tedious part is over. Now assemble the cabinet sides, top, bottom and back, working on a flat floor where you have plenty of space. In addition, drive a couple of screws through the back into the cleats near the middle to keep the sides from bowing. Predrill the screw holes with a 1/8-in. bit so you don’t split the narrow 1/2-in. cleats.
MDF vs. Plywood: Your Choice
MDF definitely has its pros and cons. First the pros. It’s more stable than plywood, so it stays flat. It cuts and machines incredibly easily with little chipping or splintering. Because it’s also kind of slippery, it works great for the smooth sliding bins and shelves in this project. And it’s cheaper than plywood. But MDF has a couple of drawbacks. It doesn’t tolerate moisture. If the cabinets might get rain soaked or you live in an extremely humid area, you should seal the MDF (and entire cabinet) with polyurethane.
Enough said about MDF. I think it works great, but if you’re a die-hard plywood fan, go ahead and use that instead.
Install The Towers
If you rest the plywood tower directly on a concrete floor, it’ll absorb moisture and the plywood will swell. Instead, set the cabinet on a pressure-treated 2x4 frame. Make the frame the same width as the tower (25-1/2 in.) but narrower in depth (about 10 in.) to provide a toe-kick, as in a kitchen cabinet. Either nail or screw the frame pieces together with 3-in. fasteners.
Finally, mount the tower on the frame and check it for plumb.
IMPORTANT:
Screw the tower through the back into the wall studs so it doesn’t tip over.
Customize For Special Uses
The space between towers is just as useful as the room inside them. Install a pair of closet poles 6 to 8 in. apart between two cabinets to hold soccer balls, basketballs or footballs. Hang a 2x8 on edge with a couple of joist hangers to hold a boat or trolling motor. Or simply cut 3/4-in. plywood shelves to various sizes and shapes for other special items.
Then build bins for the smaller stuff. Figs. B, C and D show handy, easy-to-build bin styles. Cut in a few handholds and you can carry the stuff right to where you’re working. Insert a dowel through the side of a bin and you have a tote you can carry with one hand. Set dividers through the bin and for the first time in 35 years you’ll have nails and screws that actually have a place they can call home. Combine this with a cutout for a handle and you’ve made them a mobile home.
The secret to assembling bins is to begin with a shelf with 1 in. cut off the long side. This shelf is the bottom. Then cut the ends, fronts and backs and screw and glue them to the bottom (Figs. B, C and D). Place dividers and handholds wherever they work best. Be sure to predrill all your screw holes, staying at least an inch away from the ends so you won’t split the 1/2-in. MDF pieces.
If you have a router table and finish nailer as well as some spare time, you can really go design crazy. Setting the dividers into routed grooves adds strength. Use your imagination and you’ll come up with all kinds of other ideas for customizing this system.
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1. Cut the plywood sides, tops and bottoms according to the dimensions in Fig. A. Clamp a straightedge to the plywood as a saw guide to ensure straight, accurate cuts.
2. Rip two 11-3/8 IN. x 8-FT. Pieces from the MDF and cut cleats plus one shelf from each. Assemble a simple jig from a 2x4 and an MDF shelf (or plywood scrap) to ensure square cuts and speed up the job. Cut the back and shelves from the remaining piece of MDF.
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3. Screw the cleats to the plywood sides with four 1-in. drywall screws. Hold the cleat flush to the front edge of the cabinet. Use a scrap piece of shelf material plus a cereal box top as spacers. Use a counterbore bit to provide a recess for the drywall screws.
4. Assemble the towers by driving three 2-in. drywall screws through the sides and into each edge of the top and bottom. Then screw on the back to square up and stiffen the cabinet (Fig. A).
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5. Cut and nail together a 2x4 frame for each tower. Position the frames, level them using shims and screw them to the wall with 3-in. screws. Then tip each tower onto a frame. Fasten each tower to wall studs with at least four 2-in. drywall screws.
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6. Space additional towers at least 2 FT. apart. Then screw cleats, closet rod hangers and other types of supports to the outside faces of the sides to support more shelves and other storage devices.
7. Slide in the shelves. Build and insert the bins between the cleats according to our photos and plans (Figs. B, C and D).
FIG. B CARRY ALL BIN
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FIG. C TOTE BIN
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FIG. D DIVIDED BIN
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Garage Storage Project 2 -Plywood Storage Rack
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Plywood takes up relatively little space and is easy to store—simply lean it against a wall. The trick is getting at it when you need it. Nine times out of 10, you need the half sheet that’s buried behind 12 others.
If you’ve experienced that frustration, you’ll love this rack. Casters and a set of hinges are the secret for easy access. They allow you to swing the storage rack out from the wall and slide out the storm window, paneling or other item you want. Dividers strengthen the rack while enabling you to separate large sheets from smaller ones.
Each slot has room for about six sheets of 3/4-in. plywood. Although you can modify our design and make the slots larger, keep in mind that anything that sits around for a year or two is a donation candidate.
Construction of the rack goes surprisingly fast. Plan an afternoon for the project plus an hour or two to run to the home center for materials. (See Materials List, above left.) The least expensive wood will do, although for a few dollars more, an AC grade of plywood (sanded on one side) is usually flatter and nicer to work with.
When loaded, this rack is heavy. So make sure to buy casters rated for at least 200 lbs. each. One of the casters should have a brake for extra stability. If you purchase all your materials new, it’ll cost a little over 100 bucks. But chances are you’ll have some of these materials lying around. (Use up that extra 3/4-in. plywood!)
FIG. A DETAIL SRACK PLYWOOD
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Materials List
- Two 4 x 8-ft. sheets of 3/4-in. AC plywood
- Five 8-ft. construction-grade 2x6s
- Three 3-in. casters
- One 3-in. caster with a brake
- 1 lb. of 2-in. drywall screws
- 1 lb. of 3-in. drywall screws
- Thirty-four 1/4-in. x 1-1/2 in. lag screws
- Two combination 4-in. butt/ 6-in. strap hinges (Photo 7)
Cut the plywood and 2x6s to size fi rst, following Fig. B for dimensions. You can make your cuts freehand (without a guideboard) because they don’t have to be perfect. Use a sharp, carbide-tipped blade with at least 24 teeth to minimize splintering.
FIG. B PLYWOOD CUTTING DIAGRAM
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After cutting all the pieces, screw the rack together. Start with the center plywood divider first, attaching the bottom 2x6 and then the side. Use the factory edge of the plywood to keep it all square. Next, measure and mark out your center 2x6 dividers and set them in place. This spacing isn’t critical; use more or fewer dividers depending on your needs. After you fasten the front piece of plywood, you can turn the rack over and drive additional screws, spacing them every 12 in. For the back bin you’ll have to toe-screw (screw at an angle) the bottom and side 2x6s through the center plywood divider and into the opposite 2x6. These toe screws hold them in place until you attach cleats, which solidly join the two sections.
All that’s left is attaching the hardware and fastening the rack to the wall. Since the rack and its contents are heavy, use lag screws to hold the casters and hinges in place. Predrill your holes with a 3/16-in. bit. Set the casters at a slight angle (5 degrees) to accommodate the swing of the rack (Fig. A). Attach the hinges and you’re all set to swing the rack out from the wall and fill it up.
1. Cut the plywood to the dimensions we show in Fig. B. The cuts don’t have to be precise; you don’t need a saw guide. Wear goggles and hearing protection.
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2. Cut the 2x6s to length and position them on the center plywood divider. Tack them to the plywood with 2-in. drywall screws driven from underneath. Then screw the 2x6 dividers to the bottom 2x6 with 3-in. drywall screws.
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3. Lay the front plywood piece over the 2x6s and anchor it with 2-in. screws driven every 12 in.
4. Flip the project over and assemble the back section. Position back 2x6s for the bottom and side and fasten them with two 3-in. screws where they meet. Then drive screws at an angle (toe-screw) through the ends of the 2x6s into the assembly below. Attach the plywood back piece to the 2x6s with the 2-in. screws.
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5. Fasten four plywood cleats to the bottom and sides with 2-in. screws to hold the rack together. Use 12 screws per cleat.
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6. Attach the four casters and the strap leaf of the hinges with 1/4 in. x 1-1/2 in. lag screws. Place the caster with a brake on the outer front edge of the rack to hold the rack stationary when sliding items in and out.
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7. Predrill pilot holes and fasten the rack to the wall stud with 1-1/2 in. lag screws.
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8. Swing the rack out from the wall and load it with plywood, drywall and other big, flat stuff.
Garage Storage Project 3 -Compact Shovel Rack
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If you have more tools than a handful of 16-penny nails pounded into a 2x4 will accommodate, this shovel rack’s for you. It looks simple and it is, yet this is a serious storage rack that will put its store-bought counterparts to shame. It will hold more than 14 items—ranging from shovels and rakes to sledgehammers and pickaxes—with room to spare. It’s constructed from a 16-in. x 48-in. chunk of 3/4-in. plywood with 2x6 supports and lag-screwed to the wall. Take an early morning break from your yard chores and put the rack together in a couple of hours for less than $20.
After cutting your pieces to size as indicated on the materials list, lay them out and cut the slots for the handles. We’ve made some suggestions about spacing, but feel free to customize the spacing to fit your tools.
TIP:
Make your slot wide enough to fit the “flare” where a handle meets a blade. The flare is usually wider than the handle itself.
Use a circular saw to make the straight cuts, then a jigsaw to finish out the inside curve. We used the bottom of a spray paint can to mark the curve on the inside of the slot.
Next tack a 2x6 ledger board to the plywood with a couple of 2-in. drywall screws, and then attach the supports, centering them between the slots. These short pieces of 2x6 reinforce the plywood and keep it from sagging. We knocked the ends off at a 45-degree angle so the sharp corner wouldn’t catch someone’s noggin.
Position the rack about 6 ft. off the floor and attach it to the wall studs with lag screws. Don’t skimp on the lag screws. You need their holding power to support the weight of the rack and the tools.
CAUTION:
If you have young kids or toddlers, attach an eye screw and hook to secure each slot so the tools won’t accidentally fall out (Fig. A).
The rack is now ready for use. Load off-season items at the back and frequently used ones in the front. Unless you own a small farm, you should have some spare room to store new items as the need arises.
FIG. A SHOVEL RACK DETAILS
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Materials List
- One 16 x 46 in. piece of 3/4-in. plywood
- One 48-in. 2x6
- Five 12-in. 2x6s
- Six 3/8-in. x 4-1/2 in. lag screws
- Six 3/8-in. washers
- 1 lb. of 2-in. drywall screws
- 1 lb. of 3-in. drywall screws
- Four eye hooks
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1. Lay out tool slots on the plywood top piece and make the straight cuts with a circular saw. Finish the inside curve with a jigsaw.
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2. Tack the 2x6 ledger board to the plywood with 2-in. drywall screws. Fasten the 2x6 supports to the 2x6 ledger board with 3-in. drywall screws. Then flip the rack over and anchor the plywood to the 2x6s with 2-in. screws spaced every 8 in.
3. Level the back against a wall and attach it to the studs with 3/8-in. x 4-1/2 in. lag screws and washers. Predrill holes with a 5/16-in. bit.
Garage Storage Project 4 - Peg-Board & Bin
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Probably the most essential storage item in any garage is a Peg-Board system. It puts your most commonly used tools within quick and easy reach. Add a bin to the bottom of the Peg-Board to catch all those odds and ends that don’t have a home, and you won’t have any excuse for not keeping your workbench or gardening bench clear of clutter.
The construction only takes about two hours. Start by cutting all the parts to size with a circular saw. See Fig. A for sizes.
CAUTION:
Cut the short end caps from the long 1x6s. Don’t try cutting short pieces from short boards.
Build a frame of 2x2s with one running across the center, connecting all joints with a 3-in. drywall screw. We then fastened 1/4-in. Peg-Board to the frame. One-quarter inch has a little more heft than 1/8-in. and the larger hooks it requires stay put better. Some home centers and lumberyards stock the Peg-Board prefinished in white. If you can find it, it’s worth it. It’ll brighten up the garage and save you painting time.
FIG. A PEG-BOARD AND SHELF DETAILS
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Materials List
- One 4-ft. x 4-ft. piece of 1/4-in. Peg-Board
- Five 4-ft. 2x2s
- One 4-ft. 1x4
- One 6-ft. 1x6
- Two dozen 1-in. drywall screws
- Two dozen 2-in. drywall screws
- One dozen 3-in. deck screws
The trickiest part is attaching the front edge to the shelf. Using a couple of small bar clamps takes the frustration out of this step. Align the 1x4 front edge so it’s 1/2 in. down from the shelf and clamp it to the Peg-Board and frame. Set back the shelf with that same 1/2-in. reveal. This 1/2-in. reveal strengthens the shelf. Predrill your screw holes with a 1/8-in. bit.
Next attach the end caps to secure the shelf to the frame and to keep the front edge from tipping forward.
Finally, mount the Peg-Board low enough so you can easily reach your tools. If you’re working alone, level and screw a 2x6 to the studs to temporarily support the Peg-Board while you attach it to the wall. Drive 3-in. screws through each member of the frame into every stud the Peg-Board covers.
1. Cut and fasten the 2x2 frame with 3-in. drywall screws. Then screw the Peg-Board to the frame using 1-in. drywall screws.
2. Clamp the 1x4 front edge and 1x6 shelf board to the frame using two small bar clamps. Screw the front ledge to the shelf with 2-in. drywall screws spaced 12 in. apart.
3. Attach end caps to each shelf with six 2-in. screws, two driven into each component.
4. Fasten the peg-board to the wall with 3-in. drywall screws driven through the frame into the wall studs.
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