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Prefinishing Saves A Ton Of Time
Once you get your trim home, sand and stain or paint the trim before you install it. To be perfectly honest, this part of the project isn’t much fun. But it’s a lot easier to finish trim before installation, working on sawhorses, than afterward, lying on the floor with sandpaper and a staining rag. Plus you can do a better job of sanding and finishing the pieces. After you’ve installed the pieces, be prepared to touch them up a bit. Do all the finish work in a well-ventilated area.We applied a Salem maple stain to our trim and three coats of lowsheen varnish to protect it.
CAUTION:
Dispose of any staining rags carefully to avoid spontaneous combustion: Open up the oil-soaked rags and hang them up until they’re completely dry. Then dispose of them in the trash.
The Test-Piece Technique Simplifies The Toughest Part— Getting The Miters Tight
Check the miters at the corners with two 12-in. sections of casing cut at exactly 45 degrees (Photo 3). Even though the corners should be a perfect 90 degrees, often they’re not. In addition, if the jamb sticks out or is set back slightly from the wall, a 45-degree miter cut won’t fit tight. By holding the test pieces at the corner you can see exactly how your casings will fit. If you see a gap, adjust the saw slightly and cut both pieces at the new angle (Photo 3).
TIP
Make small adjustments. Even one-quarter of a degree makes a big difference.
If the angle of the miter is accurate but a gap still appears along the face, the pieces are probably tipping back against the wall. Cut or file the backside of the miter (back cut). This allows the joint to fit tight on the face of the miter. Don’t worry about taking too much off the back; it won’t be visible.
Mark and cut the first side casing at the angle you established with your test pieces (Photo 4). Always cut the pieces a little long and check the fit; the power miter saw gives you the ability to cut very slight amounts off with a high degree of accuracy. When the inside angle of the miter lines up with the reveal mark on the top of the jamb, tack the casing in place.
Don’t Split That Perfect Miter—Predrill Nail Holes
With maple, oak and other dense wood, predrilling your nail holes in the casing is a must (Photo 5). Even with a softwood like pine, I prefer to predrill to avoid splitting a perfectly fit piece. Use a 1/16-in. bit for 4d nails, 3/32-in. for 6d nails and 1/8-in. for 8d nails.
TIP
Use a nail with the head snipped off as a substitute for a drill bit. The same size nail you’re driving works best.
Tack the casing into the jamb first, then to the wall. Wait until you’ve fit all the casings before you drive the nails in completely in case something doesn’t fit right and you have to remove the trim to recut it. We used 4d nails for the jamb and 6d nails for walls. If you’re using thicker casing, increase your nail size one increment, using 6d nails in the jamb and 8d nails inthe wall. Your nails should penetrate the studs and the jamb at least 3/4 in.
TIP:
On wood with a strong grain pattern, place your nails in the dark portion of the grain to make them less noticeable.
With your first corner fit perfectly, set the top casing aside and check the second corner with your test pieces the same way you did the first. Once you have established the angle of the miter, hold your top casing in place and transfer the reveal mark from the side jamb to your top casing (Photo 6). Cut the miter, check your fit and tack in place.
TIP:
Match your pieces of wood so the grain pattern and color are similar at the joints.
Then mark and cut the second side casing, leaving an extra 1/32 in. for fitting purposes (Photo 7). Slide the casing into place parallel to your reveal marks and check your fit. If the miter is tight and the length is a little long, trim a hair off the bottom at a 90-degree angle until you get a perfect fit.
This Pinning Technique Will Hold The Miters Tight
When your miters fit perfectly, “pin” the corners (Photos 8 and 9) to help align the two casings and keep the joint tight. Use your finger to press the casings flush with each other. You may have to slip a small shim behind one of the casings to align them. Next predrill the corners for 3d finishing nails, one from the top and one from the side (Photo 8). If your casing is less than 1/2 in. thick, you’ll have to predrill the corners before tacking the casing up.
Finally, work around the door, driving the nailheads slightly below the surface with a hammer and a nail set (Photo 10). Nail sets are sold in various sizes; choose one that matches the size of the nailhead you’re using. Set the nails deep enough to hold nail putty: A good rule of thumb is half the diameter of the nailhead.
Trim Simplified: 2 Case A Window
The Trick To ‘Picture-frame’Window Trimming is Fitting That Fourth Piece
There are two basic ways to trim a window. One way is to “picture frame” the window, so that all four corners are mitered to 90 degrees. This method is common on most newer homes, especially with casement windows. The second way is to install a stool and apron. Basically, this is a small ledge (a stool) at the bottom of the window with a piece of casing (an
apron) under it. This method is normally found in older homes and is more often used on double-hung windows.
Trim Simplified: 3 Install a Baseboard
Trim a window using the same techniques as with a door. Mark your reveal lines, use test pieces to check your corners, and transfer the reveal lines to the casings for cutting and nailing. When you “picture frame” a window, however, install the top casing first (Photo 11), then the two sides, and finally, the bottom. Fitting the bottom is the toughest part, because you have to fit both corners at once (Photo 12). But if you use your test pieces and always cut the casing a little long, you shouldn’t have any problem. Cutting the piece long allows you to adjust the miters if you have to. Once the miters are tight, gradually trim a small amount off with your miter saw until you have the proper length.
Splice Tip
If possible, purchase your trim in lengths long enough to cover an entire wall. If you have to splice two pieces on a wall, use a “scarf joint.” Cut a 30-degree angle on each piece; if the joint opens slightly, this angle will hide the crack. Select pieces with similar grain color and pattern so the joint is less visible. Always locate a splice over a wall stud.
Screw Tip
If the drywall tapers in at the bottom of the wall or stops short of the floor, simply drive a screw at the bottom of the wall and turn it in until the head of the screw is at the same plane as the main wall. The head will prevent the baseboard from tipping in.
Trim out a window with a stool in the same order as you would a door, but with a few added steps. Install the stool first, then one side, the top and the other side. Install the apron under the stool last.
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