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Simplifying Trim
Installing trim is one of the most rewarding home improvement projects you can do. No matter what style you choose, you’ll take pride in the finished product . . . as long as you get all those joints tight.
crisp, accurate corners
tight joints
hidden nails
Fortunately, installing trim isn’t all that difficult. With a few basic carpentry tools and a little bit of patience, you can complete a room in less than a weekend.
In this story, we’ll show you the basic steps for installing a wide trim around a door and window, complete with mitered corners. We’ll also show you how to put in a built-up baseboard made from a combination of three types of moldings. The key to a good job is two joint techniques: mitering and coping. We’ll help you master these techniques for tight and professional-looking joints.
Trim Simplified: 1 Trim a Door
Key Tools
■ Use a Power Miter Saw for Clean Angle Cuts
A power miter saw (Photo 2) vastly simplifies the job because it allows you to make incredibly accurate cuts in a matter of seconds. Even professionals admit they couldn’t do the same quality of work without one. If you don’t have a power miter saw, you can rent one at most rental stores for about $50 a day.
TIP
If you’re renting a miter saw, cut several scrap pieces to get the feel of the tool before cutting your trim.
CAUTION:
This saw is powerful and loud. Be sure to keep your hands well away from the blade and wear hearing protection and safety glasses when using it.
■ Buy a Good-Quality Blade For Your Miter Saw
The more teeth a blade has, the crisper the cut. Choose a blade with a minimum of 40 teeth (about $30). I prefer a blade with 80 teeth (about $70). It leaves a cut that’s as smooth as glass, making it well worth the investment.
Trim terms
Click image to enlarge.
This saw (Photo 18) has a narrow blade and tiny teeth that allow you to cut tight curves; it costs less than $10 and is available at any hardware store.
TIP
Avoid that annoying trip to the hardware store in the middle of your project—pick up a couple of spare blades in case you break one.
The only other tools you’ll need are basic carpentry tools: a sharp pencil, a tape measure and a combination square. A wood file also is a must for fine-tuning joints (Photo 20). Use a round file, called a rattail file, for fitting tight curved profiles, and a combination flat/half round for all other trim (Photo 19).
In this project, we predrilled our nail holes. If you have more than one room to trim, consider using an air-powered finish nailer to speed up the process. It rents for about $75 a day.
CAUTION:
Air nailers are dangerous if used improperly. If you rent one, follow all safety precautions.
Reduce Legwork: Set Up Your Saw In The Room You’re Trimming
If sawdust isn’t a problem, cut your trim in the room where you plan to install it (Photo 13). Set up the miter saw in the middle of the floor with plenty of room on either side. Cover the floor with a tarp to prevent scuff marks and scratches. Use blocks the same height as the miter saw table to support long lengths of trim.
Start with the casing around the doors and windows. The first few times you install casing, we suggest drawing light lines (called “reveal lines”) 3/16 in. from the edge of the jamb to align the casing to the door jamb and windows (Photo 1). With experience, you’ll skip this step and simply “eyeball” the reveal when you put up the trim.
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