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Step-by-step photos show you how to lay out the shape, dig the right size hole, install the EPDM liner, and install the submersible pump and filter. Design and maintenance issues are discussed. Tips for making your pond hospitable to plants and fish are included, together with a complete Buyers Guide for materials, fountains and supplies.This is a completely updated version of a popular story first run in the July/Aug. ’95 issue of The Family Handyman.
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There’s something soothing about the scent, sound and sight of water, something that washes away stress and strain. While you can’t stop by the French Riviera or Walden Pond after a hectic day of work, you can have a private oasis waiting for you at home, complete with gurgling water and colorful fish.
In this story, we’ll walk you through the basic steps for building a backyard pond. Roll up your sleeves -- it’s mostly muscle work. There’s no need for precise measurements, no unforgiving blueprint to follow, and no deadlines. Working like beavers, you and anyone else with a strong back could probably finish a large pond in a couple of weekends. But that would take the fun out of it. Give yourself plenty of time and creating a pond will be almost as relaxing as sitting beside it.
It's the Hardware, Not the Size, That Affects CostsYou can install a basic 10 x 16-ft. pond with a good-quality liner and high-efficiency pump, complete with rocks and gravel, for less than $1,000. For an additional $500, you can add the convenience of a filtration system, which will reduce your weekly maintenance chores. Larger ponds won’t cost a whole lot more; you’ve already made most of your investment in pumps and filters. Careful Planning Prevents a Slew of Trouble Later On
Digging out a pond hole is grunt work, not an intellectual endeavor. Still, it requires some planning. Before you grab your shovel, roughly map out the shape, desired plant shelves (Photo 2), and the pump and waterfall locations. Here are some more key considerations:
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Select a location where you can readily enjoy your pond, close to a patio or visible from a window. Don’t stick your pond in the back corner of your yard where only the squirrels will enjoy it.
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You can locate your pond in most any area of your yard as long as it doesn’t receive runoff from rainfall. You don’t want lawn and garden chemicals washing into your pond. As a rule, the more sun the better, but don’t discount a shadier spot. Just stay away from the area inside the canopy of your trees, the “drip line.” If you locate your pond near trees, be prepared to clean leaves from the pond more often. Most water plants prefer sun, but some can survive in shade. Choose hardier plants and fertilize more often if you select a shaded site.
Use a tablet-style fertilizer pressed into the soil around your nearby landscape plantings so the nutrients don’t leach into the water.
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A toddler can drown in the smallest pond, so some building codes require fences around ponds 18 in. deep and deeper. Call your local Department of Inspections, explain that you’re building a water garden (not a swimming pool) and ask what rules apply. But if you have young kids, consider installing a fence around it anyway. Be sure to choose a fence that cannot be climbed.
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Mandatory: Before you dig, call your utility company and ask to have someone come out and mark your property for buried utilities. Utility companies usually won’t mark “private” lines, that is, lines added for convenience, such as a power line from a house to the garage or a gas line to an outdoor grill. Turn off the power or gas to these areas if you suspect a line is in the vicinity of your digging.
Use the excavated dirt to berm up around your pond or build up your waterfall area. It will save you the hassle of having it hauled away or running it around your yard in a wheelbarrow.
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Oversize your pond if possible. Once you stock it with fish and plants, you’ll be surprised how much smaller it’ll look. Besides, a large pond is often easier to take care of than a small one. (Controlling algae is often easier with a large pond.) The additional expense is minimal. A 10 x 16-ft. size is a good starting point.
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Water circulation is important, so position the pump as far as possible from the water inlet (waterfall, stream or fountain).
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Digging even a small pond is a big job. Plan plenty of breaks or enlist the neighborhood teenagers to help you out for a day.
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To power the pump, you’ll need an outdoor electrical outlet (Fig. A). Have a licensed electrician install a GFCI-protected outlet.
Before you start digging, lay on the ground the water circulation pipe that goes from the pump to the waterfall. Throw the excavated soil on top of it. This will save you the work of digging a trench to bury the pipe.
We’re using a flexible liner made of a synthetic rubber called EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer). The liner is economical, durable and easy to install. You can create almost any shape and it adapts well to most site conditions.
Flexible plastic liners are also available. They’re made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and HDPE (high-density polyethylenes). These liners aren’t as flexible as rubber liners. Plastic liners are often used on large holding ponds when economy is a concern and flexibility is not. The preformed liners found at many home and garden centers are less desirable. These are essentially large plastic or fiberglass tubs. At first glance, these seem easier to install, but this usually isn’t the case. Preformed liners can be difficult to handle and level and, when lined with rocks and boulders, aren’t as forgiving as flexible ones.
Guidelines for Purchasing a Liner- Most professionals use a 45-mil EPDM liner. (A mil is a thousandth of an inch.) It’s strong, yet flexible enough to handle easily (Photo 5).
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If you plan to have fish, make sure your liner is stamped “fish-safe.” Roofers often use a type of EPDM that’s been treated with chemicals that can harm fish.
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Purchase your liner in one single sheet, large enough to cover the entire pond bottom and sides. Liners are commonly cut and sold from 100-ft. rolls with 10- to 20-ft. widths; you can custom-order liners up to 45 ft. wide. Liners can be spliced if necessary, but it involves more work and provides an opportunity for a leak. If your waterfall or stream requires extra length, use a separate piece of liner. You don’t need to glue the two liners together as long as the stream or waterfall liner is higher than the water level of the pond.
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Calculate the dimensions of the liner by measuring the maximum length and the maximum width of your pond, then add three times the depth measurement to each dimension. Better a bit big than a bit small.
Fig. A Pond features
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Click image to enlarge.
1. Lay out a garden hose to establish approximate pond borders, adjusting and readjusting until you’re satisfied with the shape of the pond. Then dig out the pond bed, terracing both shallow and deeper areas for plants. Exposed rocks, tree roots and anything else that might puncture the liner must be removed from the hole.
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2. Establish the pond borders by setting a level on a board long enough to span the hole. Make the banks level by building up low spots or cutting down high spots.
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3. Measure the depth of the hole and plant shelves, keeping in mind that the water level will be a few inches below the banks of the pond. Fish require a section at least 18 in. deep.
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4. Line the pond bed with a 1/2-in. layer of newspapers. The newspaper helps prevent liner punctures and will eventually decompose and form a clay-like layer. You can also use the special pond underlayment that’s available at your pond supply dealer. It costs about $3 per square yard.
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5. Lay in the liner so it loosely conforms to the contours of the hole. Don’t worry about folds and ripples; they’ll flatten out when you add water. Put rocks on one side to hold the liner in place while you adjust the other. Any excess material can be trimmed off with scissors or a utility knife after the pond is full of water and encircled with rocks.
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6. Line the pond sides with boulders and set in the pump container. Wash down the rocks after they’re in place and then empty the pond with your pump. For large rocks, lay a scrap piece of liner slightly smaller than the rock on top of the pond liner before positioning the rock. This helps prevent punctures.
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