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Buying Countertops (page 2 of 2)

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Wood, Tile, And Exotic Surfaces

Wood

Wood is the original solid-surface countertop; it’s uniform through and through and damage can be repaired by sanding and recoating.

Most wood tops are created from 1-1/2 in. strips of maple edge-glued to one another. Oak and other woods are available, but constitute such a paltry share of the market that most need to be special ordered. End-grain maple tops-the true “butcher block” with the cut ends forming the cutting surface-are usually four or more inches thick and proportionately expensive.

For homeowners intending to use wood as their primary top, a penetrating oil finish is recommended because cuts and dings can be touched up with a little oil and a swipe of a rag. For those intending to use the surface as more of an eating area, tops with a varnish finish can be ordered.

Moisture is the number-one enemy of wood tops. Seams and areas around sinks are particularly vulnerable. And a wood top can, and will, expand and contract.

Tile

Click image to enlarge.
Tile has many virtues. It’s inexpensive, do-it-yourself friendly, available in an astounding variety of materials and colors, and it offers design flexibility. But it has equally strong drawbacks: It’s exceptionally hard, its piecemeal nature means some surface unevenness and the grout lines are vulnerable to staining.

Not all tiles are created equal. Granite, porcelain and glazed tiles are the least porous and are quite durable. Marble, unglazed clay or limestone tiles are absorbent, soft and usually not recommended for kitchens.

Grout is another part of the equation. Epoxy grout is more durable but harder to install and may yellow. Standard cement grout must be sealed often and well.

The tile base or substrate the tile is laid over must be solid and watertight. Backerboard over plywood is the most do-it-yourself friendly base. Many pros will form and build a “mortar bed” for laying their tile.

Things To Know Before You Buy

• High-gloss and solid-color tiles do show scratches.

• Select flat tile vs. that with a slight pillow effect to it.

• Using larger tiles leaves less room in between for grout, which will have to be sealed and maintained.

Jazzing Up Basic Laminate Tops

Three products on the market can help extend the versatility of laminate. Most are installed by your fabricator when your top is made. Counter-Seal (below) is a relatively new product that allows you to undermount a sink in a laminate top. Using templates and special tools, certified fabricators cut the sink opening, then line this opening with a closely engineered ring of solid-surface material. The tight fit of the ring and special adhesives protect the particleboard core from water and moisture. Prices start at about $250. The company also makes a product for do-it-yourselfers wishing to undermount a sink in a tile top. Visit the Web site at www.counterseal.com or call (800)460-7124 to find a fabricator near you.

Gem Loc (below) is a solid-surface edging integrated into a laminate top during fabrication. It comes in a wide range of colors and styles. Visit the Web site at www.loticorp.com or call the company at (877) 436-3343 for more information or a fabricator near you. Kuehn Bevel Edge is a specially milled laminate edging that eliminates the dark edge lines often found on laminates. Kuehn also makes other types of edgings. Check www.kuehnbevel.com

Exotic Surfaces
Marble

Marble can be, and is, used for kitchen countertops. But its porosity and fragility make it best suited for bathrooms, where it’s less likely to be damaged by knives, acidic foods and impact. But marble is undeniably gorgeous; it has more natural graining than most stones and is available in a wide range of colors.

Soapstone

Soapstone has proven its durability through use in chemistry labs over the last 100 years. It has natural veining and a rugged natural look. One fabricator stated, “If you want a top that looks 100 years old the day you put it in, put in soapstone.”

Although the material is relatively soft, an application of mineral oil will disguise most scratches. Heavier damage can be sanded out. Sinks can be seamlessly integrated into the top and it can be worked with carbide tools. Most sections are limited in length to 6 ft. Most granite fabricators can fabricate soapstone tops.

Concrete
Concrete countertops are expensive, easily stained (even with a lacquer finish), can chip easily, and are as hard as, well, concrete. So why would anyone install one? “They’re fun!” explained one fabricator. You can form them into any shape, embed stuff in them, dye them. And they’re durable and heat resistant. But only those committed to a fair level of maintenance should consider them. Check out more details at www.buddyrhodes.com.

Richlite

Richlite is composed of more than 60 percent paper, but it looks and acts more like stone or wood. Used in commercial kitchens and food processing plants for decades, the phenolic wood material (according to the manufacturer) resists heat, stains and scratches and “lasts a lifetime.” It can be installed by do-it-yourselfers and has a warm, soft look and feel. Costs start at about $25 per square foot for the material. For more information call (888) 383-5533 or check out the Web site at www.richlite.com.

From The Family Handyman - October 2002