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Click image to enlarge.
1. Measure the hollow space under your new
countertop for the correct build-up height. Your
manufacturer can supply build-up strips or you
can cut them yourself. Our measurement was 3/4
in., so we used 1x2s as build-up strips.
Click image to enlarge.
2.Screw the build-up strips to the tops of your cabinets
(sides and along the back) using 1-1/4 in. drywall screws.
You may not need them on the cabinet end where the
manufacturer has installed a finished end.
Click image to enlarge.
3.Slide the corner pieces into position first to testfit
for scribing. Since our corner cabinet had a solid
top, we cut inspection holes to tighten the miter
bolts (next photo).
Click image to enlarge.
4. Temporarily
Bolt the two
corner pieces
together from below.
Use the special miter
bolts (above) that come
with the countertop.
Click image to enlarge.
5. Make sure the miter is flush on top as you tighten
the bolts. Once the bolts are tight and the top is
flush, slide the countertop into the corner and
examine the fit along each wall.
Click image to enlarge.
6. Set your scribing tool to the width of the widest gap
along each wall. Apply masking tape to the top of the
backsplash and use your scribe to mark the entire length
of each countertop. Scribe to each wall, adjusting your scribing
tool each time for the largest gap on that wall.
Click image to enlarge.
7. Belt-Sand to your scribe line using an 80-grit
belt. Make sure the top is clamped down to
your work surface to keep it from “walking”
away from you as you sand. Sand only to your scribe
line, keeping the belt sander at 90 degrees or more to
the top of the backsplash as shown. Reposition the top
and rescribe and sand if necessary.
Click image to enlarge.
8. Flip your sink upside down into position over the
sink cabinet. If your sink is not symmetrical, use a
template. Mark around the perimeter, then mark
another line 1/2 in. inside the perimeter (1 in. for cast iron)
you’ve just marked. This will be the cutout size.
Measure At Least Twice To Locate The Sink
You can get into trouble here if you don’t think through three
important steps:
Center the sink over the sink base cabinet.
Set the sink back far enough to clear the cabinet front.
Cut the hole smaller than your sink’s rim.
For most stainless steel sinks, it’s safe to flip the sink over and trace around it and then make another line 1/2 in. inside the trace line (Photo 8). The exception here is an asymmetrical shape where the left side is different from the right side. Check this carefully, especially if you’re reinstalling your old sink and no longer have the original template (most new sinks come with a full-size template). If you’re installing a cast iron enameled sink, you should make an even smaller cutout, leaving more countertop to support the weight of the sink. Usually most cast iron sinks will allow you to cut
Click image to enlarge.
9. Drill 1/2-in. dia. holes about 2 in. from each corner. The
edges of the holes should just kiss the inside edge of the
inner line.
Click image to enlarge.
10. Flip the top upside down. Connect the dots.
The lines should touch the outer circles of the
1/2-in. holes. Use a coffee mug to round the
corners. Cut out the top from the bottom side with a jigsaw.
Set the sink into the opening to check the fit.
Cut The Opening From The Bottom Side
Use a jigsaw with a medium-cut blade. The blade cuts on the up stroke, so do all your cuts from the bottom of the countertop to minimize chipping. Be sure the cutout is supported when you reach the end of your cut so you don’t break an edge. After the hole is cut, set the sink into the opening to check the fit. Do a bit of trimming if it binds as you drop it in.
TIP
Be sure you have a build-up strip under the backsplash behind the sink and at each side of the sink base cabinet. The full weight of the sink needs continuous support.
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