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StumbleUponSteps 11 - 18
Click image to enlarge.
11. Trim the end of the countertop with a sharp 10-tooth-per-inch handsaw. First apply masking tape over the edge and then mark the cutoff line with a pencil. Cut 1/16 in. outside the mark and then belt-sand to the line. Next, glue (use carpenter’s glue) and clamp a buildup strip onto the underside of the top and flush with the edge.
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12. Cut and glue the end cap for your trimmed end. Use a fine mill file to fine-tune
the end cap so it conforms to the shape of your countertop. Use a half-round file for inside curves.
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13. Squeeze a bead of silicone adhesive caulk onto the edge of each miter joint and then fasten the countertop sections together as before. Be sure the tops are flush as you tighten the bolts.
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14. Set your scribe to the overhang dimension. Use this setting to scribe the left side of the top for the return (below).
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15. Scribe the left side of the top, then cut along your mark with a handsaw, leaving the front edge to nestle around the end panel and create a notch return.
Note
Although we made the countertop flush with the cabinet side (to accommodate the range, Photo 14), you may have to adjust your scribe to allow for an overhang (Photo 15).
Click image to enlarge.
16. Check the cut for fit and sand if necessary. Use contact adhesive on the exposed notch edge and on a small piece of laminate. Once the adhesive is dry to the touch, press the laminate piece in place and file the edge for a clean, precise fit.
Click image to enlarge.
17. Screw the countertop to the cabinet sides using 1-1/2 in. steel angles with 5/8-in. long No. 8 screws. For a tight fit, screw the angles to the cabinet first and then draw the top down to meet the steel angle with the second screw.
Click image to enlarge.
18. Pull the caulk tube nozzle in one continuous motion along the seam between the backsplash and the wall. Use just enough to fill the gap, then smooth the bead with a moist rag.
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