Back To The Family Handyman
Del.icio.us
Digg
Reddit
Facebook
StumbleUpon
TwitThis3. Install GFCI outlets: cheap insurance against deadly shock
GFCI outlets reduce the danger of deadly shock from faulty plugin cords and devices. A GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) is a special type of outlet that detects dangerous ground faults and immediately turns off the power to stop shocks. For less than $10, you can replace almost any electrical outlet with a GFCI outlet. Correctly wired GFCIs will also protect other outlets on the same circuit.
To figure the minimum box size required by the National Electrical Code, add:
1 - for each hot and neutral wire entering the box
1 - for all of the ground wires combined
1 - for all of the cable clamps combined (if any)
2 - for each device (switch or outlet—but not light fixtures)
Multiply the total by 2 for 14-gauge wire and 2.25 for 12-gauge wire to get the minimum box size required in cubic inches. Plastic boxes have their volume stamped inside. Steel box capacities are listed in the electrical code.
Before you start, locate the circuit breaker or fuse that controls the outlet you plan to replace and shut off the power to the circuit. Plug a lamp, radio or the GFCI tester into the outlet to test for power and make sure it’s off. Then unscrew and pull out the old outlet and count the number of wires in the box. Calculate the minimum box size required for all of the wires plus the GFCI (see “Required Box Size,” p. 82). If the existing box is large enough, follow the steps in Photos 1 – 4 to replace the outlet with a GFCI. Replace an undersized box with a new one of adequate size.
Using a GFCI to protect additional outlets on the same circuit breaker or fuse can be tricky. Don’t do it unless you know exactly where the wires go. In the workshop, we had the advantage of being able to visually trace the wires.
Test all the GFCIs in your house at least monthly by pressing the test button or using your GFCI tester. If an outlet fails to trip, replace it with a new one.
Turn off the power at the main circuit panel and remove the old outlet. Disconnect the wires by clipping them close to the outlet. Strip the insulation from the wires to expose the amount of wire shown on the stripping gauge located on the back of the GFCI. Connect the hot and neutral wires that provide power to the “line” terminals of the GFCI. The terminal for the neutral wire will be marked “white” or “neutral.” Remove the tape covering the “load” terminals and connect the wires leading to another outlet or outlets to these terminals. Again, the white neutral terminal will be marked. Fold the wires back into the box and screw on the GFCI and cover plate. Attach the “GFCI-protected outlet” label to downstream outlets. Test the downstream outlet by plugging in the GFCI tester and pressing the test button. The lights on the tester should go out. Press the reset button on the GFCI to reenergize the outlet.
4. Test for lead dust
Lead poisoning in children is a serious national problem. Children’s habit of putting their hands and everything else into their mouths makes them especially likely to ingest lead. And because their neurological systems are still developing, small amounts of lead are more dangerous to them than to adults.
Any house built before 1978 may contain lead paint, and older homes almost certainly do. Lead paint doesn’t present a hazard when it’s covered and maintained. But renovation, sanding and scraping, or just everyday wear and tear can expose lead paint and create dust and chips. The sticky lead dust clings to surfaces where it can be picked up by an unsuspecting toddler.
If your house is older and has undergone renovation or has chipping or worn paint, you should test for the presence of lead dust.
To test for lead dust, buy a test kit and send dust samples to a lab for analysis. One brand of testing kit is available at some hardware stores and home centers. You can also order a kit from one of the labs listed at the end of this article, either by phone or on-line. Test kits cost about $10 plus a lab fee of about $10 per sample. Follow the instructions included with the kit to collect, label and mail the dust samples (Photos 1 and 2). You’ll have results in about a week or two.
The lab report will list micrograms of lead per square foot of area. The federal government has proposed recommended levels of less than 40 micrograms of lead per square foot of floor and less than 250 micrograms per square foot of windowsill.
If the lab results show higher levels of lead, contact your local health department for cleanup and control recommendations. Your children should have their blood tested for dangerous levels of lead.
Sources for lead test kits
HOMETEST.COM (formerly METS LAB): (800) 604-1995. www.hometest.com
PROFESSIONAL LABORATORIES: (800) 427-0550. www.leadtestkit.com
Wipe a win-dowsill with the moistened paper towel included in your lead-dust-wipe test kit. Follow the instructions to fold the towel and wipe again. Then place the towel in the container provided and label it. Measure the windowsill and note the measurements along with the sample location and other requested information on the form provided. Tape off a 12-in. square of flooring and wipe the area according to the instructions included in the test kit. Place the wipe in the container provided and label it. Mail the samples along with other requested information to the lab according to the instructions in the kit.
5. Pin double-hung windows
Double-hung windows (windows that slide up and down) are notoriously easy to break into. Many double-hung window locks are easy to open from the outside with a simple table knife, and the locks are held on with tiny screws that pop right out when a pry bar is used to force open the sash.
Pinning the upper and lower sash together is a quick, inexpensive method to ensure that breaking the glass is the only way in. Most robbers would rather not make that much noise. Drilling a second hole in the top sash allows you to leave the window ajar for ventilation while maintaining security. We used a hinge pin, available at hardware stores, but any solid nail, bolt or metal pin would work. Measure the combined thickness of the two sashes and mark the drill bit with tape to keep from drilling all the way through. Drill the hole slightly larger than the pin for easier insertion and removal.
Close and lock the window. Then drill a hole through the top corner of the lower sash into the upper sash. The hole size should match the diameter of your hinge pin. Raise the lower sash about 6 in. and drill a second hole into the upper sash. Slide a pin through the lower sash into the upper sash to lock the two together and prevent a forced entry.
Advertisement 
