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TwitThisTiling a bathroom
METHOD 1: Tile with underlayment
Click Image to enlarge.
METHOD 2: Tile without underlayment
Click Image to enlarge.
Q We plan to update our bathroom, and the old vinyl floor has got to go—in favor of tile. I’m concerned, though, because a friend told us there might be asbestos in the vinyl. Can we just tile over the top of it?
P. Henkels, via e-mail
A Yes, chances are you can tile right over it. And you might not have to deal with the asbestos issue at all.
Ceramic tile requires a stiff base to keep it and the grout from cracking. So the first thing you have to do is check the thickness of your floor. You can usually figure the thickness by pulling up a floor register or removing the door threshold. If the ceiling is open below the floor, you can often tell from where plumbing penetrates the floor. As a last resort, remove the toilet and examine the area around the ring; you’ll have to pull the toilet anyway at some point.
If your floor framing is spaced 16 in. apart, the combination of subfloor plus underlayment (a second layer of plywood directly under the vinyl) should add up to at least 1-1/8 in. If it’s 24 in. apart, it should add up to 1-1/2 in. Since your floor has a vinyl covering, it probably isn’t stiff enough for tile. Then use tiling Method 1, and add either 1/4- or 1/2-in. cement board to build it up. Keep in mind that in doing so, you’ll be raising the floor level 1/2 to 3/4 in. (cement board plus 1/4-in. tile), which means that you’ll have to trim the door, raise the vanity, extend the toilet ring, and make a new transition to the hallway.
If your floor is already stiff enough, you can lay the tile directly over the vinyl using Method 2. With this method you only build your floor up 1/4 in. However, if you choose this method, you should be aware of the asbestos issue. Asbestos is a known carcinogen that was used in many products including vinyl tile, asphalt tile, sheet flooring and adhesives made until 1980. So if your floor was laid after 1980, it won’t contain asbestos unless the installer used older materials. You can clean and sand it to improve tile adhesion, or even tear it out.
However, if you have an older home, and don’t know when the floor was laid, do not sand it or disturb it. Simply strip off the old grime and wax with an ammonia-based cleaner. When it’s dry, apply a little tile adhesive and let it dry to test for good adhesion. If thin-set mortar with an acrylic additive doesn’t stick well, try a mastic-type adhesive. Both are available at home centers and tile stores.
In any case, tighten any loose flooring by screwing down the entire surface with galvanized wood screws spaced every 6 in. Add more screws in obviously loose areas.
Best door screening
Q Between kids and pets, the screen in my door takes a beating. Is there a type of screen that can handle this abuse without tearing?
T. Flack, via e-mail
Fiberglass
Fiberglass screening costs 30 percent less than aluminum and is easier to install, but it won’t hold up as well in high-traffic areas.
Pet screen
Pet screen, made of strong vinyl-coated polyester, is much stronger than regular fiberglass screening.
Aluminum
Aluminum is the standard traditional screening and is stronger and longer lasting than fiberglass.
A Aluminum insect screening withstands children and small pets better than fiberglass screening, unless you live in salty air coastal regions where aluminum will corrode. But the downside is it will show bumps, dents and scratches.
To help resist damage by dogs and cats, buy a PVC- or vinyl-coated polyester weave that’s also much stronger than fiberglass insect screening. It won’t dent or scratch as easily as aluminum screening.
When buying screening, buy a mesh count (number of openings per square inch) that will keep out the smallest flying insects in your area. Standard window/door screen mesh is 18 x 16 (holes per square inch—the larger the number, the smaller the weave). To keep out the smallest of insects, such as no-see-ums (also midges, sand flies and chiggers), go with a 20 x 20 mesh. And if you switch to a different screening material for your door, check to see if it will fit in the spline groove.
Specialty pet-resistant screening will cost about $90 for a 36-in. x 50-ft. roll. Aluminum costs $19 and fiberglass costs $13 for a 36-in. x 25-ft. roll.
Buyer’s Guide
BAY MILLS: (800) 762-6694, www.insectscreen.com
PHIFER: (800) 874-3007, www.phifer.com
PRIME-LINE/ELGAR: (800) 255-3505, www.elgar-usa.com
STARBRAND: (800) 323-5585, www.hanoverwire.com
It’s a mystery
Q My deck rose out of the ground last winter! What is causing this, and what can I do to stop it?
D. Penk, Medina, MN
A You had a frost heave. It occurs when water freezes below the concrete footings and/or attaches to the rough sidewalls of the footings. As the freezing water expands, approximately 9 percent in volume, it exerts about 50,000 lbs. of pressure per square inch— which can easily lift a deck.
While decks can withstand some movement, if it moved up more than 1 in., check for structural damage. If the deck is attached to your house, the connection may be damaged as well.
Unfortunately, there’s no easy remedy. First, dig out the footing that heaved. Next, make sure the hole for your new footing extends below the average frost depth for your region. And if you have a lot of clay in your soil, make your hole a foot or two deeper. Call your local building inspector to get the proper footing depth, as well as to ask if you need a new building permit.
Make sure the bottom 12 in. of your hole flares out wider than the vertical walls. Insert a smooth-sided cardboard form tube, raised 12 in. from the bottom of the hole. This form keeps frost from gripping the sides of the concrete pier.
Efficient sprinklers
Q I understand watering my garden with an oscillating sprinkler and its 12-ft. tall fountain wastes water. What type of sprinkler is best for my square garden?
J.B. Franklin, via e-mail
Click Image to enlarge.
ROTARY SPRINKLERS
Uniform water coverage
Irrigation speed adapts to soil types
A When it comes to saving water, you have two great choices: a rotary sprinkler with a fairly square pattern that matches your garden size, and a rotary impact sprinkler with a circular pattern larger than your square garden (see photos below).
You are correct to say that the oscillating sprinkler (not shown) isn’t water efficient. Any sprinkler that produces a fine mist or launches water skyward will cause water to evaporate as well as be blown off target. Oscillating sprinklers also lack uniform coverage because the water delivery rate tends to be much heavier at the sides than at the center of the pattern.
I like a good rotary sprinkler (shown above) for your application because it will deliver a fairly square pattern and water your garden evenly. Check the box to determine its maximum coverage size. This sprinkler type will be suitable for more soil types. You can reduce the water volume for slower watering of poorly absorbing, heavy clay soils, or increase the volume for faster absorbing sand or loam soils. The goal is to make sure all the water is absorbed, not running away from the garden. While reducing water volume does reduce coverage, it adds versatility beyond your garden. Your sprinkler will fit smaller flower beds or limited landscaped areas. Wheels on the sprinkler help when moving it.
Your second choice, a rotary impact or pulsating sprinkler (shown below), uses a water-driven flapper that hits an anvil and drives the nozzles in a circular pattern. Most models are highly adjustable, from changing the circle diameter, to watering a portion of a circle, to changing droplet size. You’ll have some water waste covering a square garden with a larger circle, and coverage isn’t as uniform as it is with the rotary sprinkler. However, they do a good job of keeping water close to the ground to minimize drift and reduce evaporation.
A 72-in. tall pulsating sprinkler (not shown) is very useful for large gardens as plants grow and become tall enough to interfere with sprinkler patterns. Buying an elevated sprinkler is more costly (the Nelson model 222RC model is $60), but you can always build a platform or use a bucket to elevate your sprinkler above your tall tomatoes.
Finally, it’s smart to measure the amount of water you apply. A good rule of thumb is to make sure your garden gets an inch of rainfall or irrigation per week, wetting the top 3 to 5 in. of soil. And it’s always best to water in the morning, giving plants the rest of the day to dry so leaf diseases won’t develop.
For more information, contact LR Nelson Corp., (800) 635-7668, www. lrnelson.com; and Gilmour Group., (800) 458-0107, www.gilmour.com.
Click Image to enlarge.
PULSATING (ROTARY IMPACT) SPRINKLERS
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Fairly uniform water coverage
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Highly adjustable pattern
Art Direction • GREGG WEIGAND and BOB UNGAR
Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE
Tile Consultant • DEAN SOREM
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