Carpeting a basement floor
Q My husband wants to finish our basement with carpet and padding directly on the concrete. I feel there should be a wood subfloor to make it warmer on the feet. Which is the preferred method? P.S. During heavy storms, our basement floor occasionally gets wet.
Jody Pineault, MA

Click Image to enlarge.
A A warmer floor is always the best option, and a wood subfloor helps a little bit. But neither option will work if your floor is damp or if seepage or leakage is likely. Any kind of persistent moisture will allow mold to get a foothold and soon ruin your carpet.
For below-grade slabs like yours, assume that the concrete floor will get damp at some point. You then have two options, depending on your circumstances. And both of the options use the same layers of 1/2-in. plywood, carpet pad and carpet as shown. It’s the initial layer that differs.
The solution on the right (Option B ) will work on a concrete floor that has no persistent dampness, seepage or leakage. The 6-mil layer of plastic helps to minimize potential moisture migration up into the plywood.
Option A can be applied on concrete where there’s a higher risk of some dampness. The initial layer is a durable high-density polyethylene sheet (called Delta-FL) that uses evenly spaced 3/8-in. tall dimples to create air space and a moisture barrier between the concrete and the plywood.
Lay the sheet over the concrete floor (dimples down), overlap adjacent edges and tape the seams. Add the plywood layer on top and anchor it to the concrete with 15 concrete screws (predrilled and countersunk) per 4 x 8-ft. sheet.
You can buy Delta-FL in 4 x 8-ft. sheets or in a 5 x 65-1/2 ft. roll. It costs about 50¢ per square foot plus shipping. Visit www.deltams.com or call (888) 433-5824 to locate a retailer.
Before you proceed, consult a local building inspector to determine specific building codes for this type of project. Also, be sure your basement floor is level. Finally, note that these options will raise your floor by 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 in., so make sure this added height won’t create problems.
Lumber dimensions
Q I started working on one of your recent shelf projects and found some of the measurements confusing. The shelf sides are listed as 1x3s but the Cutting List says the board is 3/4 x 2-1/2 in. So which dimension do I use?
D. Marcum, via e-mail
A Sorry for the confusion, but the dimensions are one and the same. Most lumber is sold in “nominal” (in name only) sizes such as 1x3, 2x4 and 4x4. But these sizes are not the actual dimensions of the wood. The chart below shows the actual dimensions of lumber when it is dry (when wet, it will be slightly larger). Our Cutting Lists always give the exact dimension of the wood piece.
This handy chart will help you translate the nominal into the actual (dry). After a while, you’ll get the hang of it.
|
Thickness (inches) |
Width (inches) |
|||
|
Nominal |
Actual |
Nominal |
Actual |
Actual |
|
1 |
3/4 |
2 |
1-1/2 |
|
|
1-1/4 |
1 |
3 |
2-1/2 |
|
|
1-1/2 |
1-1/4 |
4 |
3-1/2 |
|
|
2 |
1-1/2 |
5 |
4-1/2 |
|
|
2-1/2 |
2 |
6 |
5-1/2 |
|
|
3 |
2-1/2 |
7 |
6-1/2 |
|
|
3-1/2 |
3 |
8 |
7-1/4 |
|
|
4 |
3-1/2 |
9 |
8-1/4 |
|
|
4-1/2 |
4 |
10 |
9-1/4 |
|
|
5+ |
1/2" less |
11-16 |
3/4" less |
|
Buying a power nailer
Q With so many do-it-yourself projects on my list, I need to speed up my work. I want some advice on buying my first pneumatic nailer. How do I pick one that fits my projects?
Tom Leslie, via e-mail

Click Image to enlarge.
A Pneumatic nailers can save you hours of work and often give better results than hand-nailing. You can say goodbye to drilling pilot holes and setting nails, and never see another nasty hammer mark.
To decide which type and size nailer to buy, first list the projects you do the most. If it’s furniture repair, smaller woodworking projects and crafts, make your first buy an 18-gauge brad nailer ($80 to $140) that will shoot up to 2-in. long, thin 18-gauge brads. (I say “first buy” because once you “go pneumatic,” a second nailer won’t be far behind.)
If you’re into bigger projects like installing thicker crown molding, hanging doors and other projects that need real strength from a fastener, buy a 15- or 16-gauge finish nailer ($190 to $240) that shoots up to 2-1/2 in. long, 15- or 16-gauge nails. (The smaller the gauge, the thicker and stronger the nail.)
The features are similar among brands. Look for adjustable depth of drive, a rubber nosepiece that won’t mar woodwork, and adjustable or rear exhaust to keep sawdust away from your face. Also consider the overall feel of it in your hand. Test-drive the nailers if you can.
Finally, a note of caution: Hospital emergency rooms treat scores of carpenters who have shot a nail into a finger, leg or worse. Read and follow the safety precautions listed in the owner’s manual.
Reader Mystery Photo
Q What is causing these dark streaks on my roof? Are they harmful, and how can I get rid of them?
P. Durham, Atlanta, GA

Click Image to enlarge.
A These ugly, dark streaks on an asphalt shingle roof are not a defect in the shingles or a sign of a bad shingling job. It’s algae that causes the roof to look bad. Some experts say algae may cause shingles to deteriorate prematurely, but there is no research to support that idea.
This type of hardy, blue-green algae (Gloeocapsa magma) thrives in warm, humid climates. In the Midwest, it normally appears on a north slope where shade and moisture support its growth. However, the problem is most severe in the southeast Gulf states, where entire roofs can be covered in as little as four years. The algae feed on inorganic filler materials such as calcium carbonate in asphalt shingles.
Cleaning with a 10 percent bleach solution works for a year or two, but foot traffic and scrubbing during application will damage your asphalt shingles, and the solution can harm plants and surfaces below. The best option is to replace your shingles with algae-resistant shingles, which have copper granules in them (look for the 3M Algae Block label).
Zinc also prevents the growth of algae, so another option is to install a zinc strip along the ridge of the roof. Rain hits it and carries zinc carbonate down the roof. It won’t wipe out algae that already has a foothold, but it’ll stop new growth. Check out Shingle Shields (800-942-3004, www.shingleshield.com) or Z-Stop strips (800-845-5863, www.z-stop.com).
Major-league lawn
Q I would like to know how to make my lawn look like the grass at major-league ballparks. Is it cut or fertilized in a certain way, or just how do they get those great patterns?
Kevin Knuth, NY

Click Image to enlarge.
A You can stripe your lawn like a pro—all it takes is practice and a roller on the back of your mower.
The roller simply bends the grass in the direction you’re traveling, and the bent grass reflects light differently, creating stripes. You see lighter green stripes if the grass has been mowed and rolled away from you, and darker green stripes if it has been mowed and rolled toward you.
You’ll get the strongest striping effect with ryegrass, fescue and bluegrass. You won’t see as great a color contrast between the stripes if you have warm-season grasses such as Bermuda or zoysia.
You can create a checkerboard design by mowing the grass back and forth in side-by-side rows, and then mowing a second time perpendicular to the first. In this way, you alternate the way the grass bends. And if you water the grass after mowing, your pattern will stand out even more.
Weighted lawn rollers are often available for purchase or rent at lawn and garden supply stores. Or look on-line at such sites as www.yardsngardens.com or www.4backyards.com.
Some lawn mower manufacturers (visit www.simplicitymfg.com, for example) are beginning to make riding mowers with full-width rollers mounted to the rear of the mower to make this task easier.
Instant shade trees
Q We just love our new house, but the view of a bare back yard has me wanting some instant trees. What fast-growing shade tree options are available?
J. Pleasant, Decatur, GA
A The fast-growing trees for your area include varieties such as bald cypress, lacebark elm, tulip tree and willow oak. But if fast growth is your most important criterion for tree selection, you may be disappointed. Some fast-growing trees are weaker and can break apart quite easily in ice and other types of storms.
If you want quicker shade, spend more to get larger trees. Since tree varieties can vary widely by region, check with a local tree nursery pro for advice. Also seek out basic information on-line from the horticulture department at your state university.
Correction
A Classic Handy Hint in our March ’04 issue, p. 96, recommended removing fireplace ashes in a box lined with damp newspaper. This is dangerous. Hot embers can remain after the paper dries out and start a fire. Go ahead and mist the ashes to control the mess, but put them in a metal container for disposal.
Art Direction • GREGG WEIGAND
Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE



Advertisement





















