The block plane is one of the smallest hand planes, measuring only 6-1/4 inches long and
fitted with a 1-5/8-inch blade. Because the tool can be controlled easily with one hand,
it is among the most popular planes for general use. It is especially handy for working
on small surfaces in awkward areas.
To reduce friction, rub the base of the plane with a candle stub. Always set the plane down
on its side, to avoid nicking the blade. Retract the blade entirely when the plane is not
in use. Occasionally disassemble the plane, vacuum out the sawdust, and clean the parts
with a cotton rag dampened with mineral spirits. Use lacquer thinner to remove gum or pitch.
Remove any rust by rubbing it with fine steel wool soaked with a rust-removing solution.
Reassemble the plane carefully, applying a drop of oil to each of the moving parts. Coat
the unpainted surfaces with a rust-inhibiting spray.
Purchasing
Planes are identified according to a traditional numbering system. The typical block plane
is a No. 9-1/2. On better planes, the soles have been machine-ground until they are
perfectly flat. You can test this by holding a ruler or other straight edge against the
sole before buying. A screw mechanism controls the depth of the cut, and a lateral lever
arm allows you to adjust the angle of the blade relative to the sole.
Substitutes
An alternative to a standard block plane is the low-angle block plane. It is recognizable
by the angle of the blade relative to the plane body. While the blade of a standard block
plane forms a 21-degree angle to the sole, the blade of a low-angle plane forms an angle
of only 12 degrees. Planing with this tool is easier, because it cuts at a lesser angle.
This makes it perfect for surfacing end grain, a job that involves planing across the
grain of the wood.
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Brought to you by Book of Skills and Tools and New Complete Do-It-Yourself Manual
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