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1. Roll back the carpet and pry off the baseboard. Then measure out 30 in. and chalk a line parallel to the wall.
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2. Cut 2x4s to fit between the walls for the top and bottom plates and mark the position of the studs, door openings and intersecting wall on both (Fig. A). Align the outside edge of the bottom plate with the chalk line and screw or nail it to the floor. Don’t fasten the plate where the door opening will be; you’ll cut it out later.
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3. Plumb up from the bottom plates with a straight 2x4 and 4-ft. level and mark the top plate location on the ceiling. Snap chalk lines between the marks. Locate the ceiling joists with a stud finder or by rapping with your knuckle, then mark them where they cross the top plate. Our ceiling joists run parallel to our new wall.
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4. Screw the top plate to the joists with 3-in. screws where they intersect, or attach the plates with construction adhesive and toggle bolts where there are no joists to screw into. Secure the ends of the plates with 3-in. drywall screws driven at an angle to catch ceiling nailers.
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5. Cut studs to fit snugly between the top and bottom plates and toe-screw them to the plates according to the plan. Cut trimmers and nail each to a straight stud with 16d sinker nails driven at an angle.
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6. Nail together the 2x4 headers with 16d nails, set them on top of the trimmers, and nail them to the studs. Cut and toe-screw the cripples to the top plate and header.
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7. Center the door jamb in the opening and wedge it tight by sliding in a pair of shims at each top corner. Set a 4-ft. level against the head jamb to check for level. Shimunder the side jamb on the low side until the head jamb is exactly level.
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8. Drive one 8d finish nail through the jambs and shims at the top on each side. Set a 4-ft. level on one jamb and plumb it by sliding pairs of shims behind each hinge and at the bottom of the jamb. Drive one finish nail into each set of shims. Double-check for plumb and adjust by tapping shims in or out.
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9. Cut a 1x2 spacer to fit snugly between the jambs at the top of the door frame. Insert the spacer at each hinge location and shim and nail the opposite jamb.
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10. Hang the doors in the frame. Adjust the shims until the space between the two doors is even from top to bottom and the doors line up across the top. Then drive a second nail at each shim location. Add shims at the top center to stiffen the top jamb.
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11. Align the door bottoms by tapping the door jambs slightly in or out until they’re even. Use a block of wood and firm hammer blows. Then drive in additional nails to secure the jamb in the new location.
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12. Replace the center screw in the jamb half of the top hinges with a 3-in. Screw the same or a similar color. Drive the screw through the jamb and into the 2x4 door framing to add extra support and keep the door from sagging over time. Double-check the space between the doors and add a shim if necessary.
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13. Mark and cut trim to fit around each opening. Fasten the trim with pairs of finish nails placed about 16 in. apart and driven into the door jamb and framing. Install the roller catches at the door tops, and dummy knobs that match your décor.
Copyright ©2005 Home Service Publications, Inc.
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