From 
Image 1 of 24
What looks like the toughest part of this project is actually the easiest—the graceful, solid-looking columns. They’re not wood at all but a hollow-core composite material with amazing structural strength and durability. We’ve designed the project so you simply slip these columns over treated 4x4 posts embedded in concrete. When screwed to the wooden posts, these columns provide a stable, solid base for the overhead lattice framework.
Image 2 of 24
Pegola Details
Image 3 of 24
Pegola Details
Image 4 of 24
Pegola Details
Image 5 of 24
1. Measure the projection of your soffits and add 7 in. to accurately position the column centers near but not too close to the house. Drive remote stakes an equal distance from the house, attaching a string to help mark and align the outer post locations.
Image 6 of 24
2. Dig the postholes a minimum of 2 ft. deep and 12 in. in diameter. Dig 24-in. tubes into the holes, add your 60-in. posts and pour concrete around them. Plumb your posts and align them with your outer string line. Allow the concrete to harden for a couple of days, then trim the posts to 32 in.
Image 7 of 24
3. Lift the columns (upside down) over the 4x4 posts to mark the bottoms for trimming. Attach a story pole to the house to establish a reference point.
Image 8 of 24
4. Attach a level to a straight 2x4 and mark the bottom of each post level with your height mark against the house. Remember, there’s still 10-1/4 in. additional height going onto the tops of the posts.
Image 9 of 24
5. Transfer your mark completely around the post using a combination square. Cut the post with a 10-teeth-per-inch wood blade in your jigsaw. You’ll need a fresh blade for every post you cut.
Image 10 of 24
6. Cut 5-1/2 in. round treated wood plugs to fit the inside of your columns. Glue and screw together a pair for each column top, then glue the plugs flush into the top of each column. Secure the plugs to the columns with 2-in. deck screws. Note: Drive a screw into the top of each plug to use as a handle to position the plug.
Image 11 of 24
7. Screw 1x4 to the side of each treated pine 4x4. This will beef up the post so it meets the inside edge of the hollow column.
Image 12 of 24
8. Predrill and countersink eight screw holes in the sides of the columns: four 6 in. from the bottom and four 30 in. from the bottom. Use 3-in. No. 12 exterior wood screws to anchor the columns to the wood posts. Plumb the column as you screw it to the post. You’ll notice some play between the post and column. Opposing screws will tighten the entire assembly.
Image 13 of 24
9. Slide the column bases and capitals over the column shafts. Measure and cut the outer 2x10 beam and walk it up the ladders.
Image 14 of 24
10. Screw the beam (E) to the wood plug so it’s flush with the front outside edge of the column. Use angle brackets as shown with 1-1/4 in. Simpson bracket screws. Screw the other beam in place and then the other three intermediate beams, F1 and F2.
Image 15 of 24
11. Screw a treated wood 1x2 7-1/4 in. down from the top of each of the 2x10 beams running out from the house. These will act as ledgers for the 2x8 flat rafters.
Image 16 of 24
12. Set the 2x8 flat rafters onto the ledgers (hold them perfectly vertical) and screw each end to the 2x10 beams with three 3-in. deck screws.
Image 17 of 24
13. Drive screws at an angle to fasten opposing 2x8 flat rafters. Use three 3-in. screws per end.
Image 18 of 24
14. Push the resin-cast capitals flush with the bottom of the 2x10 beams and screw them into place with 2-1/2 in. deck screws.
Image 19 of 24
15. Cut the decorative rafter tails from treated 2x10 pine. To avoid cupping, choose knot-free boards and keep them out of the sun until you paint or stain them.
Image 20 of 24
16. Rip strips of 5/4 treated decking to 3-in. widths to make parts J. Align and screw them to K and to the top of each 2x8 flat rafter. Then screw K in place from the backside of F1.
Image 21 of 24
17. Rip 5/4 decking 3 in. wide and rout a 1/4-in. round-over on each edge to make the lattice strips.
Image 22 of 24
18. Drill 3/4-in. holes and insert 6-in. long 1/2-in. PVC pieces with 90-degree fittings attached. These little pipes act as ventilators to help slough off any excess moisture that may get into the columns.
Image 23 of 24
19. Fill the pilot holes and screw heads on each column with auto body fiberglass filler. Let the filler harden, then sand the areas flush. Now you’re ready to paint.
Image 24 of 24
20. Screw the 5/4 lattice strips to the tops of the rafters. Evenly space them across each section. Add more if you’d like to increase the shade below.
Copyright ©2005 Home Service Publications, Inc.
Comments :