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1. Build a 90-degree assembly jig (shown in blue) from 2x4s to keep the stanchions square while you nail. Screw the jig to a sheet of plywood. Short 2x6 blocks hold the header 1-1/2 in. off the table. To assemble the post, center the 2x4 in the middle of the first 2x6 and nail it with 3-in. galvanized nails, keeping the top ends flush. Nail the header onto the bottom of the vertical 2x6 (flush with the 2x4) with two 3-in. nails at two opposite corners.
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2. Nail one end of the strap to the end of the 2x6 brace, filling all the holes with 1-1/2 in. galvanized joist hanger nails. Rest the bottom of the brace on the header and adjust the brace until the top of the hanger is about 3 in. from the top of the post. Nail the hanger onto the post with joist hanger nails and tack the brace to the header with two 3-in. galvanized nails.
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3. Tack the second 2x6 post member to the 2x4 with three 3-in. nails and bolt the assembly together with 5-1/2 in. x 3/8-in. bolts, washers and nuts (see Fig. A for fastening positions).
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4. Coat (dip or paint) the ends, especially freshly cut ones, with wood preservative to prevent rot. Center and nail two footers to the bottoms of the post and header. Nail two shelves on the top of the header, one on each side of the brace (see Photo 6 and Fig. A). Use two 3-in. nails for each.
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5. Dig the first end post footing by removing the top 4 in. of soil in a 2-ft. square area. Pound a stake near the center of the hole, keeping the top of the stake even with the top of the hole. Pack the hole with sand, then smooth it with a flat board.
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6. Set the first post on the sand footing and adjust the stanchion until it’s plumb and roughly square to the direction of the wall face.
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7. String a mason line from the first stanchion to the other end of the wall to provide a straight layout line. Adjust the string to minimize extra digging. Position the other stanchions by measuring from the first stanchion (see Photo 8) and pounding a stake in the center of each location a few inches back from the line. Level the tops of the stakes with a builder’s level (see “Rent a Builder’s Level”). Dig 4-in. footings around each stake, pack each footing with sand, and smooth the tops even with the top of the stake.
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8. Plumb and brace the first stanchion. (You’ll be anchoring the others to it.) Set additional stanchions along
the string line. Set the second stanchion 3 ft. 9-3/4 in. from the first stanchion (center to center, not the space in between) and all the others at 4-ft. increments. That way the 8-ft. wall planks will always meet in the middle of a stanchion. Set the bottoms first, then plumb them. Hold the stanchion tops in place by tacking on a 2x4. Mark the 2x4 with the proper spacing and tack it to the other stanchions.
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9. Square each stanchion to the mason line with a carpenter’s square. Hold a 1-1/2 in. thick block against the header to fur it out for squaring. Shovel dirt over the end of the header to help lock the wall in place.
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10. Cut the first row of planks to fit between the headers, then nail the boards into each stanchion with two 16d galvanized nails. Add planks, alternating the joints behind posts for a stronger wall.
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11. Slip in the planks that fit behind the brace before installing the row directly below it. (It’s impossible to put them in later.) Then push that row down into place and nail.
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12. Notch the row directly over the braces by holding them in their proper positions and tapping them against the sharp edge of the strapping. Using the indentations as a guide, make a couple of passes through the backside of the board with a circular saw to create a slot for the strap.
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13. Staple landscape fabric onto the backside of the wall before backfilling.
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14. Build two 2x4 and 1/2-in. plywood slip forms to allow you to backfill with a thin layer of gravel behind the wall. Shovel about 1 ft. of earth against the slip form and fill it to the same level with gravel, then pull the slip form up and
repeat the process until the wall is filled to within 1 ft. of the top.
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15. Slip the first bulkhead plank into the stanchion recesses, then level and nail through the outside corners of the 2x6s. Drop in and nail the rest of the bulkhead planks.
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16. Screw the 2x8 top caps to the top of the stanchions with two 3-in. deck screws at each post. For bulkhead spans longer
than 4 ft., nail a vertical 2x6 stiffener to the backside of the wall planks. It’ll keep the wall planks in line and add strength to the top cap in case someone uses it for a step.
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