From 
Image 1 of 22
1. Fur out
the existing window opening to 2 in. wider and 2-1/2 in. taller than the
dimensions of the glass block panel.
Image 2 of 22
2. Tack stop blocks on the inside of the
opening to keep the frame flush to the framing. Assemble the frame, then plumb
and square it and nail it into the opening with 8d casing nails, shimming as
needed.
Image 3 of 22
3. Rip two 3-ft. Long spacer boards the thickness
of your tile plus 3/4 in. so the window will protrude 1/4 in. past the finished
tile surface. Tack them to the sides of the window opening. Tack two 2x2s into
the boards to hold the glass block panel in the proper position while you push
it in from the outside.
Image 4 of 22
4. Tap shims between the panel and the frame to
hold it evenly spaced on all four sides while injecting the expanding foam.
After the foam cures, cut away any excess and caulk the 1/4-in. space between
the panel and the jamb on the outside of the frame with silicone caulk. Finish
off the trim and siding to match the outside of the house.
Tip
Prime and paint the window jambs and
sill before setting the glass block panel to save time-consuming painting
details.
Image 5 of 22
5. Turn off the main water supply to the house, and
in a convenient location, cut the hot and cold water supply pipes for the
bathroom. Also cut out and remove all the existing water lines and fittings in
the bathroom. Finally, cut out and remove the vent section leading to the sink
and the main stack 5 in. below the vent tee. Stuff rags into open drain lines
to keep sewer gas out of the house.
Image 6 of 22
6. Cut the main stack and all the other waste lines
feeding the bathroom about 3 ft. below the floor. Unhook any strapping and
remove the entire plumbing tree.
Image 7 of 22
7. Drain any water in the supply lines, cut the hot
and cold lines feeding the bathroom, and solder in two ball-valve water
shutoffs. Shut off the valves, and then turn the water back on to the rest of
the house.
Image 8 of 22
8. Nail the bottom plate to the floor and the top
plate to the ceiling. Then mark the positions of the shower base, toilet and
sink. Lay out and toenail the wall studs into position (Fig. B) and the
top plate for the low wall. On the opposite end of the shower, frame a matching
35-in. wide wall (see Photo 14) 60-1/4 in. (or the length of your shower base
plus 1/4 in.) away from the first wall.
Image 9 of 22
9. Tie all the short studs to the existing studs at
the top and bottom with 6 x 11-in. plywood gussets screwed to every stud on the
short wall. Keep gussets on the outside of the chair carrier space so they
won’t interfere with installation. Install backer boards as needed to
support cement board or drywall.
Tip
Resist the temptation to reuse or
reroute existing piping. If you have easy access, it’s much easier to rip
out all the old supply, drain and vent lines and start with a clean slate
(Photos 5 and 6).
Image 10 of 22
10. Position and connect the new shower vent (see
fig. B). Then position the sink and center the drain behind it, 19 in. up from
the floor. Connect the drain to the main stack with a 3 x 1-1/2 in. tee. Drill
3/4-in. pilot holes and saw out a 4-1/2 in. hole for the toilet
drain.
Image 11 of 22
11. Nail in 2x6 blocking to anchor the rear toilet
mounting brackets. Fit the chair carrier in the opening to check the location
of the drain hole and the position of the mounting block. The front surface of
the framework should be flush with the face of the studs.
Image 12 of 22
12. Dry-fit the PVC piping assembly for the
wall-hung toilet, shower trap and sink. After you’re satisfied that the
dimensions are correct, solvent-weld all the joints in the assembly and join it
to the existing ABS main stack using a transition coupling.
Tip
When dry-fitting PVC, pipes won’t
seat completely in fittings, so add 1/4 in. to all cut lengths. The solvent
will lubricate fittings so the pipes will slide in all the
way.
Image 13 of 22
13. Toenail 2x6 blocks in the center of the shower
36 in. above the floor for the shower valve and 6 ft. 6 in. above the floor for
the showerhead. Position the valve block so the plastic mud guard on the mixing
valve will be flush with the finished wall surface. Attach the shower supply
line and the hot and cold supply lines to the valve. Clamp the valve body and
shower supply line to the blocks with copper pipe straps. Run copper water
supplies to the new locations for the sink and toilet.
Image 14 of 22
14. Place the shower base and mark the drain
location on the subfloor. Remove the base and cut a 6-in. wide hole. Tighten
the shower drain to the shower base. Predrill 1/8-in. holes through the
mounting flange into the studs and screw the base to the wall studs with 1-5/8
in. galvanized drywall screws.
Image 15 of 22
15. Adjust the chair carrier (toilet support
framework) to the desired height and bolt it in place to the bottom plate,
blocking and studs with the lag screws provided.
Tip
For a quieter, rock-solid shower base,
mix a bag of mortar, spread it over the subfloor and wiggle the base into the
mortar until the base webbing rests firmly on the subfloor.
Image 16 of 22
16. Insulate exterior walls and staple a 6-mil
vapor barrier over the insulation. Install 1/2-in. cement board (for tile) with
specially coated 1-1/4 in. cement board screws spaced 6 in. on butt joints and
every 8 in. in the middle of sheets. Hang 1/2-in. drywall everywhere
else.
Image 17 of 22
17. Tape cement board joints
with cement board fiberglass tape and thin-set tile mortar. Tape drywall joints
with taping compound, sand them smooth and paint areas that won’t be
tiled.
Image 18 of 22
18. Tile the walls first, then
the floor. When tiling around the window, keep the tile about 1/8 in. away from
the glass block. Tile the floor, starting by carefully snapping center lines to
lay out border strips and field tile. Work from those lines to get evenly
spaced tiles throughout the floor. Grout the walls and floors but caulk the
inside corners between floors and walls and where walls meet.
Image 19 of 22
19. Seal around the window with
a bead of silicone caulk.
Tip
Buy specially designed caulk from your tile supplier to
match the grout color in corners.
Image 20 of 22
20. Mount the supply and
discharge lines to the toilet with the seals provided and slip the toilet bowl
into position over the mounting studs. Snug up the nuts, being careful not to
overtighten and crack the porcelain.
Image 21 of 22
21. Install the faucets and
tailpiece in the sink before mounting. Mark the mounting holes on the wall and
drill 5/16-in. holes through the tile and cement board and 1/4-in. holes into
the backer boards. Screw the hanger bolts through the tile into the wood using
the cap screw to drive the bolt . Slip the sink over the screws and snug down
the nut.
Image 22 of 22
22. Connect the sink to the
trap and drain line, and the supply lines to the roughed-in copper lines with
compression valve shutoffs. Mark, drill and mount the trap cover to the wall
with hanger bolts.
Comments :