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1. Measure the hollow space under your new countertop for the correct build-up height. Your manufacturer can supply build-up strips or you can cut them yourself. Our measurement was 3/4 in., so we used 1x2s as build-up strips.
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2.Screw the build-up strips to the tops of your cabinets (sides and along the back) using 1-1/4 in. drywall screws. You may not need them on the cabinet end where the manufacturer has installed a finished end.
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3.Slide the corner pieces into position first to testfit for scribing. Since our corner cabinet had a solid top, we cut inspection holes to tighten the miter bolts (next photo).
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4. Temporarily Bolt the two corner pieces together from below. Use the special miter bolts (above) that come with the countertop.
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5. Make sure the miter is flush on top as you tighten the bolts. Once the bolts are tight and the top is flush, slide the countertop into the corner and examine the fit along each wall.
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6. Set your scribing tool to the width of the widest gap along each wall. Apply masking tape to the top of the backsplash and use your scribe to mark the entire length of each countertop. Scribe to each wall, adjusting your scribing tool each time for the largest gap on that wall.
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7. Belt-Sand to your scribe line using an 80-grit belt. Make sure the top is clamped down to your work surface to keep it from “walking” away from you as you sand. Sand only to your scribe line, keeping the belt sander at 90 degrees or more to the top of the backsplash as shown. Reposition the top and rescribe and sand if necessary.
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8. Flip your sink upside down into position over the sink cabinet. If your sink is not symmetrical, use a template. Mark around the perimeter, then mark another line 1/2 in. inside the perimeter (1 in. for cast iron) you’ve just marked. This will be the cutout size.
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8. (cont.)Measure At Least Twice To Locate The Sink
You can get into trouble here if you don’t think through three important steps:
1. Center the sink over the sink base cabinet.
2. Set the sink back far enough to clear the cabinet front.
3. Cut the hole smaller than your sink’s rim.
For most stainless steel sinks, it’s safe to flip the sink over and trace around it and then make another line 1/2 in. inside the trace line (Photo 8). The exception here is an asymmetrical shape where the left side is different from the right side. Check this carefully, especially if you’re reinstalling your old sink and no longer have the original template (most new sinks come with a full-size template). If you’re installing a cast iron enameled sink, you should make an even smaller cutout, leaving more countertop to support the weight of the sink. Usually most cast iron sinks will allow you to cut
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9. Drill 1/2-in. dia. holes about 2 in. from each corner. The edges of the holes should just kiss the inside edge of the inner line.
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10. Flip the top upside down. Connect the dots. The lines should touch the outer circles of the 1/2-in. holes. Use a coffee mug to round the corners. Cut out the top from the bottom side with a jigsaw. Set the sink into the opening to check the fit.
Cut The Opening From The Bottom Side
Use a jigsaw with a medium-cut blade. The blade cuts on the up stroke, so do all your cuts from the bottom of the countertop to minimize chipping. Be sure the cutout is supported when you reach the end of your cut so you don’t break an edge. After the hole is cut, set the sink into the opening to check the fit. Do a bit of trimming if it binds as you drop it in.
TIP
Be sure you have a build-up strip under the backsplash behind the sink and at each side of the sink base cabinet. The full weight of the sink needs continuous support.
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11. Trim the end of the countertop with a sharp 10-tooth-per-inch handsaw. First apply masking tape over the edge and then mark the cutoff line with a pencil. Cut 1/16 in. outside the mark and then belt-sand to the line. Next, glue (use carpenter’s glue) and clamp a buildup strip onto the underside of the top and flush with the edge.
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12. Cut and glue the end cap for your trimmed end. Use a fine mill file to fine-tune the end cap so it conforms to the shape of your countertop. Use a half-round file for inside curves.
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13. Squeeze a bead of silicone adhesive caulk onto the edge of each miter joint and then fasten the countertop sections together as before. Be sure the tops are flush as you tighten the bolts.
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14.Set your scribe to the overhang dimension. Use this setting to scribe the left side of the top for the return (next).
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15. Scribe the left side of the top, then cut along your mark with a handsaw, leaving the front edge to nestle around the end panel and create a notch return.
Note
Although we made the countertop flush with the cabinet side (to accommodate the range, Photo 14), you may have to adjust your scribe to allow for an overhang (Photo 15).
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16. Check the cut for fit and sand if necessary. Use contact adhesive on the exposed notch edge and on a small piece of laminate. Once the adhesive is dry to the touch, press the laminate piece in place and file the edge for a clean, precise fit.
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17. Screw the countertop to the cabinet sides using 1-1/2 in. steel angles with 5/8-in. long No. 8 screws. For a tight fit, screw the angles to the cabinet first and then draw the top down to meet the steel angle with the second screw.
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18. Pull the caulk tube nozzle in one continuous motion along the seam between the backsplash and the wall. Use just enough to fill the gap, then smooth the bead with a moist rag.
Copyright ©2005 Home Service Publications, Inc
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