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1. Make marks
and snap chalk lines 32 to 36 in. off the floor. Locate studs with a stud
finder or by probing with a finish nail, then mark other studs at 16- or 24-in.
increments.
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2. Cut the 1x4
horizontal rails to length. Make square cuts where the rail butts a wall or
window or door casing. Make 45-degree miters (shown) at outside corners.
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3. Test-fit
corner pieces to ensure a tight fit. Cut one piece about 1/8 in. too long, then
tack it in place. Use a mitered “test piece” to see how the corners
will fit, then use a belt sander, miter saw or sanding block to fine-tune the
angles.
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4. Install the
3/4-in. x 2-in. top rails. Test-fit pieces and cut ends so they fit tightly
against walls and one another. Scribe and sand edges so top rails fit snugly
against walls.
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5. Notch the
ends of the top rails so they extend 5/8 in. onto door and window casings. Use
3d nails or 1-3/8 in. brads to secure the top rail to the rail below.
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6. Cut and
install the bed molding. Place the molding upside down and hold it tightly
against the fence of the miter box with clamps or cam pins. Secure the moldings
in place with 3d finish nails or brads.
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7. Cope one of
the pieces where moldings meet at inside corners. Cut a 45-degree angle, then
use that profile as a guide for cutting the end. Angle your saw to remove more
wood from the back of the molding than from the front; then fine-tune the cut
with a file or sandpaper.
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8. Glue
returns in place where the bed molding overlaps window or door casings. Tape
them in place. Don’t nail them; they’ll break.
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9. Secure the
glass bead molding in place with 1-in. brads. Press this flexible molding
tightly against the wall so it covers any gaps between the wall and rail.
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10. Putty all
nail holes and gaps, then sand the rails and moldings smooth. Ease the exposed
rail edges with sandpaper to create a more durable “paint edge.”
Caulk any gaps between the wall and top rail. Prime and paint.
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