From In addition to the tile, you’ll need:
-
A 25-lb. bag of thinset mortar— gray for dark tiles or white for light tiles ($10).
-
A 5-lb. bag of unsanded grout for the tile joints ($5). (Unsanded grout is easier to work into the narrow 1/8-in. wide grout lines and you won’t risk scratching the stone while grouting.)
-
A quart of polished-granite sealer (about $25) to treat the tile and grout surfaces a week or so after grouting the tile (Photo 19). It will help prevent stains from penetrating the porous surface and enhance the natural beauty of the stone.
-
A roll of fiberglass mesh tape for taping the Denshield seams (Photo 8).
-
A 1/4-in. notched trowel for spreading the thinset (Photo 7).
-
A 4-in. or 6-in. putty knife.
-
A 2-in. margin trowel ($5, Photo 15).
-
A honing stone to soften sharp exposed edges ($7, Photo 13).
-
A grout float for spreading and embedding the grout (Photo 17).
-
Color-matching caulk to substitute for grout at inside corners (Photo 18).
-
Plastic spacers for supporting the backsplash tiles (Photo 16).
It’s not hard to estimate your lumberyard purchased materials. Here’s what you need:
-
3/4-in. plywood underlayment: You’ll need a full sheet of 3/4-in. plywood for every 8 ft. of countertop.
-
Tile backer: Buy a 32" x 60" sheet of Denshield (or cement board if Denshield is not available) for every five lineal ft. of counter.
-
1x4 cabinet blocking: Pick up enough 1x4s and 2x4s to line the top of the cabinet backs, cabinet ends and areas where plywood splices will occur (Photos 3 and 4).
-
1x3 backsplash trim cap: Buy enough 1x3 trim lumber that matches your cabinets along with the necessary stain and finish to cap off the finished backsplash (Photos 11, 16 and Fig. A).
-
One 1-lb. box of 1-in. roofing nails for nailing down the Denshield.
-
One 1-lb. box of 2-in. screws for securing the plywood to the cabinets and the 1x4 to the wall studs.