From 
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1. Measure and mark the center of each box. Use letters and symbols to identify boxes. Add 2x4 blocks to position boxes away from wide window and door trim.
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2. Position the box so its face will be flush with the wall covering material. Then nail the box to the framing. Double-check that the face of the box is parallel with the framing member.
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3. Bore 3/4-in. holes through the framing members about 8 in. above the boxes. Center the bit on the stud, brace the drill and apply pressure with your thigh for easier drilling of wall studs.
TIP
When you drill through wall plates (the horizontal framing members on the top and bottom of the wall), keep the hole a few inches from the stud to avoid hitting nails.
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4. Angle the bit into tight spots. Eyeball the angle to make sure there’s at least 1-1/4 in. between the back face of the stud and the cable (Fig. A). Then cover the face of the stud with a metal nail plate to protect the cable where the hole is closer than 1-1/4 in. to the face of the stud (Photo 6).
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5. Straighten about 12 ft. of cable and thread it through the holes from one box to the next. When you reach each new box, follow the stripping procedure shown in Photo 7, push the conductors and about 1/4 in. of sheathed cable into the box, and staple the cable (Photo 8). Then cut the end still connected to the coil and repeat the process at the other box.
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6. Fish the cable around corners by bending a sharp hook in it. Then stick your little finger into the hole to feel for the cable and guide it through as you apply pressure with the other hand.
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7. Grab the cable at the point you estimate it will enter the box. Cut the cable about 12 in. beyond this spot and strip off all but about 1 in. of sheathing.
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8. Punch a hole (or two for two cables) through the knockout area of the box with a screwdriver or the point on your stripping tool. Push the conductors and about 1/4 in. of sheathed cable into the box and staple the cable within 8 in. of the box. The cable must be at least 1-1/4 in. from the face of the framing. Push the first cable aside while you staple the second cable.
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electrical wiring plans
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9. Run cable(s) from your completed circuits to the service panel. Leave 4 extra feet of cable for the electrician to work with. Label the cables with the location of the circuit. Then call in the electrician to connect the circuits.
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10. Cut all the wires to leave at least 6 in. protruding past the face of the box. Leave one bare copper ground wire an extra 6 in. long. Thread the long ground wire through the hole in the top of the special green wire connector and splice all the ground wires by holding them together and twisting the connector clockwise until it’s tight. Strip the ends of the white and black wires and one end of each 6-in. long pigtail and splice them with wire connectors. Cover the unstripped end of the black (hot) pigtail with a wire connector for safety.
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11. Group and label the wires in the switch boxes so you’ll know how to connect them after the drywall is complete.
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12. Fold and pack the wires neatly into the box to conserve space and reduce pressure on connections. Label wires with scraps of cable sheathing.
Copyright ©2005 Home Service Publications, Inc.
EXCELLENT guide to save the 'weekend electrician'!!