From 
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Fig. A: Concrete, Post and Beam Connections
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1. Mark the size of the new footing and cut the outline with a circular saw fitted with a diamond masonry blade. Start by making a 1-in. deep plunge cut on each side of the post. Make successively deeper 1-in. cuts until soil pulled from underneath the slab tells you the concrete has been breached.
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2. Release all rigid connections between gas, heating, plumbing or electrical lines (in conduit) and the house beam. To avoid rupturing these lines while the beam is being raised, support them with a 2x6.
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3. Position two 3-ft. long 2x10 “weight-spreader” boards a minimum of 6 in. from the sides of the hole,then center a hydraulic jack directly under the beam’s lifting point using a plumb bob. Make sure the jack is perfectly plumb and sits solidly level on the boards.
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4. Cut a 4x4 or 6x6 jacking post to fit between the jack piston and the beam. Place a 1/4-in. thick steel plate between the piston and the bottom of the post to prevent the piston from becoming embedded in the post. Snug the post up to the beam by closing the jack’s release valve and pumping the jack handle up and down to raise the piston.
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5. Center a shoring post on its spreader boards about 12 in. from the 4x4 jacking post. Then lower the post’s screw head to its lowest position, raise the telescoping sections as high as they’ll go under the beam and insert the metal pins to lock the sections together. Raise the screw head to its centered position under the beam and attach the top plate to the beam with duplex nails.
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6. Raise the house beam by pumping the hydraulic jack very slowly using short strokes. Raise it no more than 1/2 to 1 in. total to release the weight from each post. Measure from the floor to the beam to monitor the beam’s rise. Have an assistant simultaneously raise the shoring post as tight as possible against the beam to provide backup load support. When the old post loosens, remove and label it for reuse.
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7. Excavate the footing hole to the specified size, digging the sides and bottom of the hole square and level. Scrape loose soil from the bottom of the hole until you reach undisturbed soil. If the soil caves in along the edges, install 1/2-in. plywood to hold the dirt back. Remove them while pouring the concrete.
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8. Install rust-free, 1/2-in. dia. reinforcing rod (rebar) to strengthen the concrete footing. Suspend the rebar in the lower third of the footing and tie the rebar together using 16-gauge wire.
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9. Pour concrete into the hole to the level of the existing floor and smooth it with a steel trowel. Suspend a plumb bob from the post’s center point under the beam above and place a 1/2-in. x 12-in. anchor bolt in the wet mud.
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10. Level an 8x8 concrete block in freshly laid concrete, centering it around the anchor bolt. Completely fill the core with concrete.
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11. Measure the height between the house beam and the plinth, subtract 3/16 in. and cut the old basement post to length. Saw a squared bottom from the rotted end, using a circular saw to girdle the post. Finish the cut with a handsaw.
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12. Set the post on its plinth block (use sill sealer as a vapor barrier), matching the post top to its prior contact position with the house beam. Then reset the hydraulic jack, lower the shoring post, and very slowly open the valve of the hydraulic jack to carefully lower the beam onto the post.
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13. Using a hammer drill fitted with a masonry bit, predrill two 3/16-in. holes 1-1/4 in. deep into opposite sides of the plinth block. Install 1-1/4 in. concrete screws through metal anchor straps into the plinth and then nail the straps to the wooden post with galvanized 10d box nails.
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14. Join the support beam and wood post by toenailing them together and attaching two metal T-braces to opposite sides of the beam with galvanized 10d box nails.
Copyright ©2005 Home Service Publications, Inc.
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