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Wainscot Details
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Wainscot Details (cont.)
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1. Pry off window and door moldings and baseboard with a flat pry bar. Measure up from the floor 67 in. and snap chalk lines around the room at that height. Locate the studs with a stud finder and mark the centerline of each with a level. Extend the stud marks about 1 in. above the horizontal chalk line.
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2. Nail new1x4 trim around doors and windows. Use 1-1/2 in. nails to attach the 1x4 to the door frame and 2-in. nails along the outside edge. Miter and nail outside corner molding to the trim with 1-in. finish nails.
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3. Arrange 1x8 baseboard around the room so the grain pattern and color of adjoining pieces match as closely as possible. Rough-cut the boards a few inches longer than needed. Then cut the boards to exact length and nail them to each stud with two 2-1/2 in. nails.
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4. Miter the baseboard by clamping a large square in position and using it to guide the saw. Set the saw to cut a 45-degree bevel for outside corner pieces.
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5. Plumb the first board with a 4-ft. level, apply glue and nail it to the wall.
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6. Drive 1-1/4 in. nails through the tongue into the drywall with a power nailer to hold the boards in place until the glue dries. Drive the nails at about a 45-degree angle. Use three nails in each board.
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7. Shim gaps between the wavy wall and the baseboard with layers of heavy paper so the reveal remains the same. Place shimming material so half is behind the base and half is behind the tongue-and-groove paneling. Tip
Don’t assume the boards have a perfectly square mill-cut end. First trim one end square, then cut it to length.
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8. Assemble outside corners by cutting off the backside of the grooves at a 45-degree angle and aligning the front of the grooves as shown. Glue and face-nail the boards to the corner studs with the tongues facing away from the corner.
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9. Notch boards for switches and receptacles with a jigsaw. Hold the board over the outlet and mark for the top and bottom cuts. Then measure and mark the side cut. Saw straight in at the top. Then cut a sweeping arch into the corner. Cut along the remaining lines and cut small notches for the outlet screws.
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10. Slide special box extenders through the paneling and into the electrical boxes to extend the box. Reattach the receptacles and switches with extra-long screws. Caution: Make sure the power is turned off at the main electrical panel.
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11. Measure from the corner to the edge of the board, excluding the tongue, to determine the width of the last board. Measure every 12 in. along the corner and mark these dimensions on the final board. Connect the marks to create a cutting line.
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12. Saw 1/8 in. beyond the line with the saw set to a 30-degree bevel. Then plane to the line, checking the fit occasionally. Remove the back half of the groove by sawing it off or slicing it off with a sharp utility knife. Press the board into place and nail through the face into the corner stud to secure it.
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13. Notch boards with a jigsaw to fit around the window stool. Trim and plane the board to fit tightly to the window trim. Cut off the back half of the groove if necessary to get the board in. Tip
Whenever possible, hold boards up and mark them in place rather than measuring. It’s quicker and more accurate.
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14. Cut out brackets with a jigsaw and sand the curve with a belt sander or sandpaper wrapped around a wooden dowel.
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15. Cut 1x3 boards to fit on top of the paneling and drill two 3/32-in. pilot holes at each stud location. Temporarily fasten them and position the brackets. Attach them temporarily with a pea-size dab of hot melt glue. Stand back and look. Adjust the bracket locations if you like. Then mark the location of each bracket. Remove the brackets and 1x3s.
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16. Drill two 5/32-in. pilot holes at each bracket location and attach the brackets to the 1x3s with 2-in. drywall screws. Reinstall the 1x3s. Drive two 2-1/2 in. finish nails into each stud and use a nail set to sink the nailheads slightly below the surface.
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17. Cut 1x6 boards to fit over the brackets. Miter the corners. Nail the shelf boards to the brackets with 1-1/2 in. finish nails. Cut 1-1/8 in. wide edging strips from lengths of tongue-and-groove paneling for the shelf edging. Leave a “bead” on one edge and align this edge flush with the top of the shelf. Nail the strips to the shelf with 1-in. finish nails.
Copyright ©2005 Home Service Publications, Inc.
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