From 
Image 1 of 21
1. Mock up the fireplace using the dimensions given
in fireplace brochures and outline the hearth shape with masking
tape.
Image 2 of 21
2. Cut 2x10s and nail them together to create an
11-1/2 in. tall platform the shape of the fireplace. Nail 2x4 cleats to the
bottom. Cut 3/4-in. plywood to fit and screw it to the top.
Image 3 of 21
3. Set the fireplace on the platform and slide it
into position. Then apply a pencil-width bead of sealant to the starting collar
of the fireplace. Use the sealant recommended by the manufacturer, usually
stove cement or high-temperature silicone caulk.
Image 4 of 21
4. Slide the first vent pipe over the
starting instructions. If your fireplace requires a gasket collar and lock it
in place according to the to seal the joint between the vent and fireplace,
make sure it’s properly positioned. (Ours required the braided rope
gasket shown.)
Image 5 of 21
5. Connect the 90-degree
elbow and a 9-in. straight section to the first vent pipe. They should meet the
exterior wall at a 90-degree angle. Trace a circle around the pipe on the wall.
Using the interior firestop for reference, mark a 12-in. square on the wall.
Our square is centered 1 in. above the center of the vent
pipe.
Image 6 of 21
6. Cut out 12-in. square the
hole with a drywall saw and look for obstructions. If there’s a wall stud
in the way, cut out the drywall between the two closest studs and about 9 in.
above the square opening. Caution: Keep the saw blade shallow to avoid cutting
hidden electrical wires.
Image 7 of 21
7. Cut out the wall stud and
add a double 2x6 header. Support the header with trimmers screwed to the
existing studs. Notch for electrical cables if necessary. (A metal nail plate
is required if the cable is closer than 1-1/4 in. to the face of the framing.)
Frame the 12-in. opening. Drill a 3/8-in. hole through the wall at each corner
to transfer the location of the opening to the outside.
Image 8 of 21
8. Connect the four holes
with lines and cut out the 12-in. opening in the siding and sheathing. Mark
another square opening the size of your exterior firestop and cap, and cut
through the siding only. Finish the corners with a utility knife or chisel.
Vinyl, aluminum, stucco and brick siding require different
techniques.
Image 9 of 21
9. Replace the insulation and drywall, reusing the
old piece if possible. Seal the drywall seams with caulk and place a bead of
caulk around the opening. Press the interior firestop into the caulk and screw
it to the wall.
Image 10 of 21
10.Complete the vent by sliding a section of pipe
through the firestop from the outside. In our case this pipe was part of the
telescoping exterior firestop and cap. Then seal the gap between the vent and
the interior firestop with high-temperature silicone caulk.
Image 11 of 21
11. Slide the combination firestop and vent
termination into the telescoping section. Screw the firestop to the wall and
seal it with caulk. If your cap has a built-in drip cap that prevents you from
sliding it in, cut it off and slide a prebent drip cap under the siding as
shown.
Image 12 of 21
12. Fine-tune the position
and levelness of the fireplace and screw the platform to the floor. Relocate
electrical boxes as needed and run a new electrical line if you intend to
install the optional fan or remote control. Run the new gas line. Screw wood
backing between the studs to secure the surround as needed.
Image 13 of 21
13. Build the wall
that surrounds the fireplace using Fig. A as a guide. Allow 1/2 in. of space
between the wood framing and the fireplace on both sides. Screw the metal tabs
on the fireplace to the wood frame to secure it.
Image 14 of 21
14. Preassemble the mantel frame and slide it into
position. Screw through the 2x6 from the backside to secure the
mantel.
Image 15 of 21
15. Miter short framing members to
complete the angled ends of the mantel and attach them with
screws.
Image 16 of 21
16. Construct the hearth of
2x10s covered with two layers of 3/4-in. plywood. Cut the plywood to shape
first and use it as a pattern to build the 2x10 frame. Support the inside edge
with 2x4s screwed to the framing.
Image 17 of 21
17. Build the columns according to Fig. A and screw
them to the framing. Then cover all wood surfaces with drywall fastened with
1-1/4 in. drywall screws.
Image 18 of 21
18. Cover all the outside
corners with metal drywall corner bead. Where two or more corner beads meet,
cut angles on the ends to form a point. Nail the beads with 1-1/4 in.
ring-shank drywall nails every 12 in. along the bead or more often if needed.
Use special 120-degree metal bead to cover the angles that are greater than 90
degrees.
Image 19 of 21
19. Apply paper tape
embedded in a layer of drywall joint compound to joints without corner bead.
Fill the area between corner beads with joint compound. Sand the corners and
joints smooth with 100-grit drywall sanding paper.
Image 20 of 21
20. Prime the walls, then
trowel on a layer of premixed acrylic stucco texture. Press the trowel firmly
against the wall. Cover all of one section.
Image 21 of 21
21. Rub block of foam
insulation in small sweeping arcs over the compound to impart a stucco-like
texture. Occasionally clean off texture that builds up on the block. Cut a
45-degree angle on a block to reach into inside corners. Clean up spills and
splatters with water before they dry, then move on to the next
section.
Comments :