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Pour the used oil back into oil bottles (a rather messy job) or into an old container. Then take the bottles to a recycling center or set them out with your trash (only if your trash collector accepts used oil). To find a recycling center near you, go to earth 911.com and enter "oil" and your zip code in the search bars. Each recycling center lists whether they accept oil and filters, or only oil. Some states require oil filters to be drained before disposal in the trash, while others prohibit tossing them in the trash completely. To find your state's oil filter disposal rules, go to http://filtercouncil.org/index.php?page=recycle and enter your state in the drop-down menu.
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1. Drive your car onto your ramps, or use an inexpensive floor jack along with a set of jack (safety) stands (not shown). Be sure to set your parking brake. Check the directions that come with the drive-on ramps or jack stands for details, then give the car a good shake from side to side to make sure it’s solidly supported. If you use ramps, be sure they won’t slide as you drive onto them. We used a rubber mat under the front of the stand and a 2x12 plank to keep the ramps from sliding forward. Have a helper guide you so you don’t drive off the ramp.
CAUTION
Never work under any car using the factory-supplied jack—it's only for changing a flat tire!
CAUTION
Never work under any car using the factory-supplied jack—it's only for changing a flat tire!
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2. Using a box-end wrench, loosen the drain plug about a half turn. Avoid using an adjustable wrench because it's more likely to slip and eventually ruin the plug head. And remember this memory aid—lefty loosy, righty tighty. Slide the drain pan under the drain plug. Unscrew the plug. When the plug is ready to come out, quickly pull it out of the way. Hold on to the plug so it doesn't drop into the drain pan. Let the oil drain for at least five minutes, then reinstall the plug.
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CAUTION
The oil may be hot! Let a hot engine cool before draining the oil.
The oil may be hot! Let a hot engine cool before draining the oil.
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3. Unscrew the oil filter, using an inexpensive oil filter wrench ($5 to $10). If you use the type pictured, make sure it's the right size and configuration. Some wrenches cinch around the filter and turn from the side. Others, like the one shown, fit the bottom of the filter and accept a 3/8-in. drive socket or a wrench. Room to move the tool is the key. Loosen the oil filter by turning counterclockwise. When the filter is loose, use a rag to unscrew it by hand. Be careful! The filter may be full of oil, so place the drain pan under it. Remove the filter and pour any oil into the drain pan. Wipe any old oil or dirt from the filter-mounting surface so the new filter will seal properly, and make sure the old oil filter ring gasket hasn't stuck to the engine.
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4. Carefully spin the new filter on by hand. Be sure you don't pick up any dirt from the frame or other parts on the ring gasket as you position the new filter. Spin the filter on clockwise until the gasket seats against the engine. Then turn the filter—by hand—approximately a half turn to fully seat the ring gasket. If you can't get your hand around it firmly because space is tight, use your wrench. Don't overtighten the filter—you may tear the gasket.
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5. Locate the engine oil fill hole and clean the area around the fill cap. Using a clean, dry funnel, add the new oil. Don’t spill any on the engine. If you do, wipe it up immediately. Note: Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct weight, API rating and amount of oil you’ll need to add. Replace the oil fill cap, check the oil level on the dipstick (it may be slightly over the mark until you run the engine) and start the engine. Be sure the garage door is open so exhaust fumes can escape.
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Check the oil pressure gauge for the proper pressure reading or be certain the oil light on the instrument cluster is off. Look under the car for leaks. Lower the car and recheck the dipstick level to make sure the oil is up to the full mark.
Jack stands alone are too DANGEROUS for crawling under your vehicle. I've seen them fail when placed on asphalt on a slight slope--they slowly sank towards the front of the vehicle, and everything came crashing down. I strongly recommend buying ramps because it's much more difficult for your car to fall off them.
When draining the oil, don't barehand it: wear a pair of heavy duty latex gloves (keeps your hands cleaner) or Mechanix-type gloves (anti-knuckle busters). Also, look around for other sources of possible leaks (oil pan gasket, other fluid lines, CV joint boots). A local oil change shop may not tell you anything, but I got a leaky tranfer case repaired under warranty because I looked around. Keep your receipts for any possible future warranty/wear claims.