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1.
Establish the size of the shed by laying out and cutting the treated 2x4 bottom
plates. To accurately space and mark the posts, use as patterns a 2x4 cut to
the width of the window sash plus 1/8 in., and a small section of 4x4. Drive
reference stakes along the house or garage to mark the corners and establish
the floor height. Then lay the plates on the ground to establish the
approximate perimeter.
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2. First
pound wooden stakes into the ground about 18 in. outside the perimeter of the
shed to support the 1x4 batter boards. Then establish the floor height by
leveling across from the reference stake with a string and line level. Mark
each stake.
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3. Align
the top edge of the 1x4 batter boards with the marks and screw the boards to
the stakes. Then stretch strings between the batter boards and reference stakes
to indicate the locations of the 6x6 beams and two 4x4 support posts. Subtract
1 in. from the length of the outside wall plate and 1/2 in. from the end plates
(the plates overlap the beams 1/2 in.) to determine the beam lengths and
positions. Check that the strings form right angles by measuring diagonally
from one corner to the other. Adjust the strings until the diagonal
measurements are equal and all the sides are the correct length. Tie the
strings to nails to hold them taut.
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4. Position
footings according to your plan. Then dig footing holes with a post hole digger
and set 8-in. dia. cardboard forming tubes into them. To establish the correct
footing height, measure down from the string the thickness of your 6x6 beam
plus the floor thickness, mark the tubes and cut them to this length with a
sharp utility knife. Then place them back in the holes, wedge them solidly so
the beams will center on them, and fill them with concrete. Set 1/2-in. x
12-in. anchor bolts into the center of each and smooth the
tops.
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5. Transfer the layout lines to the footings by
plumbing down from the string and marking the concrete piers. Connect the marks
with a chalk line. Cut the 6x6 beams to length, allowing an extra 3 in. on the
side wall beams so they’ll fit into the existing foundation.
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6. Lay the
outer beam on the footings and measure from the chalk line to the center of the
anchor bolts. Transfer these measurements to the 6x6 beams. Drill 5/8-in. holes
through the beams at these marks. Drill 1-in. holes 1/2 in. deep torecess the
washer and nut.
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7. Bolt the
outer beam to the footings. Use a masonry blade on a circular saw to cut a
pocket in the block foundation to support the end of the 6x6 (or pour another
footing if the foundation is concrete). Spread pea gravel under the beams.
Connect the side beams to the outer beam with 3/8-in. x 10-in. lag
screws.
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8. Pry off the soffit and fascia material in
the area of the shed. Remove full pieces if possible. Then cut and replace them
after the shed is built.
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9. Mock up
the walls and rafter to make patterns. Position the 4x4 posts at the wall
locations (overhanging the 6x6 beams by 1/2 in.), plumb them in both directions
with a level, and brace them with 2x4s. Make a rafter pattern by cutting the
wall angle on the end of a 2x6, sliding it under the overhang, and temporarily
securing it to the wall. Use a taut string to align the 2x6 with the existing
roof and temporarily screw or nail it to the posts. Mark the 2x6 along each
side of the 4x4 posts.
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10. Mark
the posts along the underside of the 2x6. Use these marks to establish the wall
height and length of the 4x4 posts. Take the 2x6 and posts
down.
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11. Mark
the 2x6 to make a pattern rafter. Draw the seat cut (where the rafter rests on
the top plate) at a right angle to the post marks. Then use a Speed square to
transfer the “plumb cut” angle to the end of the rafter, 11 in.
beyond the seat cut for the overhang.
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12. Cut the
outside 4x4 top plate 2 ft. longer than the outside 2x4 bottom plate to support
the overhanging rafters. Cut the end 4x4 top plates 1-3/4 in. longer than the
end 2x4 bottom plates to fit into the notch in the outside 4x4. Align the 2x4
bottom plates with the 4x4s and transfer the layout marks. Cut a 1-3/4 in. x
3-1/2 in. notch in each end of the front 4x4 to accept the side
4x4s.
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13. Cut the
4x4 posts to length and assemble the walls. Pound two 6-in. pole barn nails
through the pre-drilled 4x4 top plate and into each 4x4 post. Drill two 1/8-in.
pilot holes through the 4x4 top plate at each post location and pound 6-in.
pole barn nails through the 4x4 into the posts. Secure the treated bottom plate
to the 4x4 posts by nailing two 16d galvanized box nails into each
post.
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14. Lift
the front wall onto the 6x6 beam. Position it to hang over the 6x6 beam 1/2 in.
on the front and ends. Nail the bottom 2x4 plate to the 6x6 beam with two 16d
galvanized nails near each post. Hold a 4-ft. level against the 4x4 corner post
and push or pull it until it’s perfectly vertical while your helper nails
a 2x4 diagonally across the wall to temporarily brace it. Slide the side walls
into the slots in the siding and fit the 4x4 top plates into the notches. Nail
the bottom plates to the 6x6 and connect the top 4x4s with two 6-in. pole barn
nails.
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15. Mark
and cut the rafters using the pattern rafter as a template. Position
the overhang rafters 3/4 in. back from the end of the overhanging 4x4 top
plates to allow room for trim. If they don’t land alongside an existing
rafter, secure the tops. Position the remaining new
rafters alongside the existing rafter tails and connect them with three 16d
nails every 12 in. Toe-nail the rafters to the 4x4 top plate with three 8d box
nails.
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16. Support
the tops of rafters that don’t align with existing rafters with metal
joist hangers. First nail a 2x6 block between two rafters and into the top
plate if possible. Notch the rafter to fit into the metal 2x6 joist hanger.
Pound special 1-1/2 in. joist hanger nails into every hole in the metal joist
hanger.
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17. Cut the
3/4-in. CDX plywood and nail it to the rafters with 8d box nails. Temporarily
support the sheets with 2x6 blocks nailed to the subfascia. Align the sheets so
the 8-ft. side is perpendicular to the rafters and stagger the joints on the
4-ft. ends. Space the sheets 1/8 in. apart.
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18. Notch the 1x6 trim to fit
over the 4x4s and miter the ends. Nail the 1x6 trim to the rafters and
subfascia with 8d galvanized finish nails. Use your square as a straightedge to
align the 1x3 drip edge with the surface of the plywood before you nail it
in.
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19. Staple
no. 30 roofing paper to the plywood. Start at the bottom and overlap each sheet
4 in. onto the one below. Install the shingles according to the instructions on
the shingle wrapper. Snap chalk lines to ensure the slots in your new shingles
align with those in the existing shingles.
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20. Fill in the end walls
with a 2x4 top plate and short 4x4s angled to fit the roof pitch. Add 2x4
nailers to support the soffit.
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21. Frame
between the posts with 2x2s nailed flush with the inside surface of the 4x4
posts. Cut angled windowsills and drip caps on a table saw to fit between the
posts at the top and bottom of each section. Nail the drip cap to the 2x4
bottom plate and screw the windowsill to the 2x2 frame. Fill each section with
siding nailed to the 2x2 frame. Drill pilot holes for the nails to keep them
from splitting the siding.
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22. Trim
the barn sash to fit in each opening, allowing about 1/8 in. On the sides and
bottom and 1/4 in. on the top. Screw a 3-in. screen door hinge to the top of
the sash.
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23. Screw a
2-5/8 in. X 1-1/2 in. Cedar board to the top of each window opening. Screw the
hinges to this board. Nail 3/4 in. X 1-1/4 in. cedar stops to the top and
bottom of the opening and 1/2 in. x 1-1/4 in. stops to the sides. Position the
stops flush with the inside edge of the 4x4.
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24. Saw,
plane and sand the door until it fits into the opening. Allow a 1/8-in. space
on the sides and top. Cut enough from the bottom to allow at least 3/8-in.
clearance above whatever flooring material you decide to use. Outline the 4x4
butt hinges with a utility knife and chisel mortises so the hinges will sit
flush with the door. Screw the hinges to the door.
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25. Shim
the door in the opening and mark the hinge positions on the 4x4 post. Remove
the door and chisel the hinge mortises in the post. Screw the hinges to the
post and nail 1x2 stops to the 4x4 door frame. Complete the installation by
installing the lock according to the instructions included.
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26.
Construct a sliding door by screwing 1x6 tongue-and-groove siding to a 1x4
frame. Attach a 1-1/2 in. x 2-in. Strip of cedar to the horizontal 4x4 with
3/8-in. x 4-in. lag screws and mount the aluminum pocket door track to it. Hang
the doors from pocket door wheels that ride in the track and snap into brackets
mounted to the top of the door. Cover the track with a 1x4 cedar
board.
