From 
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1. Cut the front and back sides with a tin snips. Bend the gutter and cut the bottom.
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2. Cut a 2-in. long notch in the front lip of the gutter with a tin snips to join a gutter section with an inside or outside corner piece. (Cut a 4-in. long notch to overlap and splice together gutter sections.)
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3. Lay a bead of gutter sealant along the corner 1-1/2 in. back from the edge. Hook the front lip of the corner over the notched section of gutter and snap it over the gutter.
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4. Join the gutter to the corner with six rivets in the locations shown. Start by drilling a 1/8-in. hole (for 1/8-in. rivets) at the front of the gutter and installing the first rivet with the rivet gun. Now drill the remaining holes and install
the rivets.
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5. Caulk the seam on the inside of the gutter with gutter sealant. Put a dab of sealant over each rivet.
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6. Mark the center of the downspout outlet on the bottom of the gutter. Center the outlet, flange side down, over the mark and trace around the inside. Cut a V-shaped notch with an old chisel as a starting hole for the tin snips.
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7. Cut out the outlet hole with an offset tin snips. Red tin snips cut counterclockwise. Green snips cut clockwise. Either one will work. Cut 1/16 in. outside the line.
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8. Slip the outlet into the hole and predrill 1/8-in. holes for the rivets. Remove the outlet and run a bead of gutter sealant around the opening. Press the outlet into the caulked opening and install the rivets.
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9. Set a slope by driving a nail 1/2 in. below the shingles on the high side of the gutter run. Measure and record the distance from the bottom of the fascia board to this nail. Subtract 1/4 in. for every 10 ft. of gutter from this measurement
and mark this distance at the low end of the gutter run. Drive a nail at this mark and stretch a chalk line between the two nails. Align a level with the string to check the slope. The bubble should be off-center toward the high side. If it’s not, adjust the string. Finally, snap the string to mark a line on the fascia.
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10. Drive 1-1/4 in. stainless steel hex head sheet metal screws through the back of the gutter into the fascia. Install one screw every 2 ft.
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11 Slide gutter flashing under the shingles and secure with 1-in. roofing nails every 2 ft. Lap sections about 2 in.
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12. Hook a hanger under the front lip of the gutter and screw it through the flashing into the fascia. (The gutter apron will prevent you from slipping the hangers over the back edge of the gutter as intended.) Install hangers every 2 ft.
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13. Screw an elbow to the downspout outlet. Hold another elbow against the wall and measure between them. Allow for a 1-1/2 in. overlap at each end. Use a hacksaw to cut this length from the uncrimped end of a downspout tube.
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14. Crimp one end of the short length of downspout with a special sheet metal crimper. With the three blades on the inside of the tube, hold the crimper against the inside corner of the tube and squeeze. Crimp three times across both long edges and twice on the narrow sides. Attach this short section of downspout to the two elbows with two 1/4-in. hex head sheet metal screws into each joint.
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15. Cut strips about 1-1/4 in. wide from the end of a downspout with a tin snips. Cut out a U-shaped bracket and snip off the corners. Measure from the corner of the building and mark the locations of each bracket, spacing them about 6 ft. apart. Attach the brackets to the house with stainless steel screws. (Drill a clearance hole through stucco siding with a masonry bit. Use plastic anchors for brick. Use 1/4-in. long hex head screws for vinyl siding.) Cut and screw downspout sections to an elbow at the bottom. The bottom of the elbow should be about 6 in. above the ground. Slip this assembled downspout section over the crimped end of the top elbow and secure it with two screws.
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16. Drive screws through the brackets into the assembled downspout. Complete the assembly by adding a length of downspout tube to the bottom elbow to direct water away from the foundation.
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