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1. Disconnect the drain lines and p-traps if they block
your access to the faucet and water supply pipes. (Place a bucket
or coffee can under the P-trap to dump residual water after you
pull it free.)
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2. Unplug the garbage disposer, or shut off the circuit
breaker in the main service panel if the disposer is directly
wired. Disconnect the dishwasher discharge line and place a
1-gal. paint can under the garbage disposer with some rags on top
to cushion the disposer when it drops free. Release the disposer
by tapping the retaining ring with a hammer in a counter-clockwise
direction.
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3. Shut off the water below the sink if you have valves, or
shut off the main water supply valve if your old faucet is plumbed
directly without valves. Open the kitchen faucet and another lower
faucet to bleed off any pressure and to drain the water. If
you’re installing or replacing valves, cut the water lines
directly below the fittings with a tube cutter or hacksaw.
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4. Reach up behind the sink, fit the basin wrench jaws onto
the tailpiece nuts and turn counterclockwise to loosen. Then
disconnect the spray nozzle hose, remove the faucet and clean the
sink area under the old faucet flange.
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5. Follow any manufacturer’s preassembly instructions
and place the optional flange (see Photo 8) over the faucet
opening. Finger-tighten the flange nuts underneath the sink and
check the alignment of the flange, faucet and sink hole from
above.
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6. Check the operation of the faucet and handle to confirm
you’re not putting it in backward, and thread the feeder
lines through the flange and sink holes. Then slip on the faucet
washer, and thread on and tighten the faucet-mounting nut from
below, gently spreading the faucet supply tubes if necessary to
gain tool clearance (sometimes manufacturers provide a special
tool for this).
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7. Hand-tighten, then snug up the flange nuts with an
open-end wrench. You can only turn the wrench about a one-sixth
revolution at a time.
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8. Thread the spray nozzle line through the faucet body,
then thread the spray hose fitting onto the faucet supply tube and
tighten it. Pull the nozzle out of the faucet to make sure the
hose under the sink operates freely, then attach the counterweight
following the manufacturer’s instructions.
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9. Tighten the new valves onto the supply tubes and mark
the feeder lines just above the compression nuts on the valves for
cut-off.
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10. Clean the copper tubing with fine sandpaper, then slip
the nut, compression ring and valve body over the pipe and
tighten. Close the valve, turn on the main water valve and check
for leaks. Place a bucket under the faucet and turn the faucet on
to check for leaks. Reassemble the garbage disposer, P-traps and
drain lines.
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