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Step-by-Step Instructions and Pictures: How to Install Deck Lighting

How to install low-voltage lights for your deck. Read an overview for how to install deck lighting.

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Mark the light fixture locations on your deck plan. Locate the transformer next to an electrical receptacle (if necessary, add one). Draw routing lines for the wiring circuits. For our deck, the post lights (green) highlight the main entrance to the house and light the path to the driveway. The step lights (blue) add safety by lighting stairways. The rope lights (red) highlight the planter boxes and add ambient light. The floodlights (orange) highlight the plants and add to the look from the street.

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Connecting the Power and Running the Wiring

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Each circuit requires a cable that is made up of a pair of wires. Calculate the total length of cable needed and buy it as one piece. Plan on cutting specific lengths on the job.

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Waterproof Wire Connectors are ideal for exterior low-voltage wiring. Strip 3/4 in. of insulation from each wire end. Hold all the ends flush together and twist on a connector. You can get waterproof connectors at home centers, electrical supply houses and irrigation supply houses. If you need help finding a local dealer, call King Safety Products at (800) 633-0232, or visit its Web site at www.kingsafety.com.

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Stair Lighting: Most step lightshave to be connected through the back. Drill a hole through the planter wall behind the fixture and feed the wires through (Photo 1). Connect the wires with waterproof wire connectors and push the wires back into the hole. Fasten the back plate to the siding (Photo 2) and then install the cover (Photo 3).

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Wiring Post Light: The wires for thepost cap lightscome from below. Again, try to find a hidden route. In our case, we drilled partially through the length of the existing rail post (Photos 4 – 6). After feeding the wire through the rail post, we drilled through the center of an additional post section (Photo 4) and screwed it to the top rail (Photo 7).

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New-Post Technique
For the new posts, we first cut them in half lengthwise with a circular saw, then cut a groove for the wire and reglued the halves together with urethane glue. Feed the circuit wires through the post before connecting the fixture (Photo 8). Dig a hole 18 to 24 in. deep with a posthole digger to set the post. Adjust the length of the post to the hole’s depth.

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Rope lighting
Rope lighting is unique. It’s a flexible, solid plastic rod with a series of tiny bulbs embedded in it. Calculate the total length needed, add 10 percent and buy one long piece (it’s available in 250-ft. rolls) and cut it on the job. Attach a power connector to one end of the rope lighting (Photo 9). The cord on the power connector then attaches to the circuit wire with twist connectors. You can connect multiple pieces of rope light with straight and 90-degree connectors, but it’s quite flexible and we were able to bend it around 90-degree corners without the 90-degree connector.

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Connecting the Floodlights

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Floodlights provide a wash that highlights features. Be careful not to direct the light into people's eyes when they’re on the deck. Some floodlights come with a hood to reduce glare.

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A ground stake attached to the bottom of the fixture makes installation a snap(Photo 13). Bury the wire 6 in. deep.

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1. Bore a 1-1/2 in. hole from the front side and pull a loop of the cable through. Cut the cable and rejoin the ends along with the light fixture leads with waterproof wire connectors.

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2. Push the wires back through the hole and screw the back plate to the planter siding.

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3. Install the cover plate and tighten the set screws.

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Staple the wires somewhere on the backside to anchor them.

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4. Bore a 1-in. hole down the center of the rail post. Drill deep enough to get below the second horizontal rail.

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5. Drill a 1/2-in. hole from below the rail. Angle up to intercept the 1-in. hole bored earlier.

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6. Feed a heavy wire or electrician’s fish tape through the holes in the post. Tape the circuit cable to the wire and pull it back through the holes. Connect the cable to the post cap light’s feed wires with twist connectors.

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7. Screw the post light assembly to the rail. Use four corrosion-resistant wood screws, one near each corner.

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8. Feed the circuit wires through the post, connect them to the fixture wires with the wire connectors, and push the wire back into the post. Screw the post light to the top of the post, and drop the post into the hole. Partially fill the hole with dirt, plumb the post with a carpenter’s level and tamp the dirt around the post. Continue adding dirt, checking for plumb and tamping until the hole is completely filled. Cover the circuit wires with 6 in. of dirt.

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9. Connect the power cord to the end of the rope light by inserting the contact pins with pliers.

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Then assemble the rest of the connector.

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10. Drive 3/4-in. No. 4 stainless steel screws through predrilled holes in the mounting track. Space the screws 2 ft. apart. Fasten the track within 3 in. of its ends.

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11. Cut the rope light to length with a scissors at a marked cutting point; these are spaced every 6 in.

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12. Push the rope light into the channel.

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A hammer handle or a piece of wood works well as a push tool and is easier on the fingers. Slide on an end cap.

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13. Install the floodlight by pushing the stake into the ground. Cover the wire and waterproof connectors with 6 in. Of dirt.

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