From 
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1. Remove the toilet, the base shoe or baseboard molding and the door threshold or carpet strip.
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2. Saw off the bottom of the door jambs and moldings. Use a scrap of the underlayment plywood to hold the saw blade the correct distance from the floor. Pick out the sawed-off pieces with a flat-blade screwdriver.
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3. Fill low spots in the old floor with up to 5/8-in. of floor filler. Mix the filler with water or latex additive as recommended by the manufacturer and trowel over low spots. Use a straightedge to check the height.
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Cut a Full-Size Paper Template: Tape pieces of heavy paper together to create a template of the bathroom floor. To keep the template from shifting, tape it to the bathroom floor. Leave about 1 in. of the old floor showing around the perimeter. Cut out holes for the pipes and the toilet. Then transfer the shape of the floor onto the paper template by holding a straightedge against the baseboard while you draw a line along the inside edge.
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5. Slide the square under the cutoff moldings and door jambs before marking the template.
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6. Scribe along curved or irregular edges with a compass. Set the distance between the compass point and pencil equal to the width of the straightedge. Make sure to hold the compass perpendicular to the surface being scribed.
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Cut and Nail Down a Smooth Plywood Underlayment: 7. Arrange the 1/4-in. underlayment on the floor in the approximate shape of the bathroom floor and tape the sheets together with duct tape. Then tape the paper template to the underlayment.
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8. Transfer the shape of the bathroom floor to the underlayment by aligning the blade of the framing square with the reference line and drawing a line along the outside edge. Transfer the curved portions with the compass. Use a circular saw and jigsaw to cut out the plywood.
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9. Staple the underlayment to the bathroom sub-floor using a rented underlayment stapler loaded with 7/8-in. staples. Place staples 4 in. apart in the center of the sheet and 2 in. apart along seams and edges.
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10. Mix floor filler with latex additive and trowel it onto the underlayment to fill gaps and holes. Scrape off excess filler after it sets (about 20 minutes). Vacuum the floor, then run a trowel over it to double-check for lumps of filler.
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11. Unroll the vinyl flooring on a clean surface and tape the template to it. If the flooring has a pattern in it, align the template for the most desirable layout. Tape the template to the vinyl flooring and transfer the marks with the framing square and compass.
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12. Cut out the vinyl flooring using a utility knife fitted with a hook blade.
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13. Double-cut the seam by holding a straightedge along the desired seam location and cutting through both pieces of vinyl with a sharp utility knife. Keep the knife perpendicular to the flooring.
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Glue It and Roll It for Permanent Adhesion: 14. Spread the adhesive with a notched trowel. Precisely position the vinyl flooring in the bathroom, then reroll one half of the piece. Use a notched trowel (1/16 x 1/16 x 3/32-in. notches) to spread the adhesive evenly over the floor. Roll back the second half of the floor and repeat the gluing process.
CAUTION: Read the label on the adhesive you’re using. You may have to provide ventilation or use an approved respirator.
CAUTION: Read the label on the adhesive you’re using. You may have to provide ventilation or use an approved respirator.
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15. Press the vinyl tight to the floor with a rolling pin. Work from the center out. Press the edges with a wallpaper seam roller.
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16. Replace the toilet and reinstall the moldings. Caulk along the bathtub and around the toilet with silicone or latex tub-and-tile caulk.
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