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Wood Close to the Ground
1. Scrape away all the paint within 16 in. of the concrete. Scrapers with replaceable carbide blades work best. Also dig any old caulk out of joints.
1. Scrape away all the paint within 16 in. of the concrete. Scrapers with replaceable carbide blades work best. Also dig any old caulk out of joints.
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Wood Close to the Ground
2. Sand remaining paint off curves or in corners where scrapers don’t reach. Coarse sandpaper, 60 or 80 grit, removes paint quickly and leaves a rough surface for better primer adhesion.
2. Sand remaining paint off curves or in corners where scrapers don’t reach. Coarse sandpaper, 60 or 80 grit, removes paint quickly and leaves a rough surface for better primer adhesion.
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Wood Close to the Ground
3. Undercut the trim to create a gap between the wood and concrete. Use a scrap of 1/4-in. plywood for a saw guide.
3. Undercut the trim to create a gap between the wood and concrete. Use a scrap of 1/4-in. plywood for a saw guide.
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Wood Close to the Ground
4. Brush the bare wood with paintable water repellent. Keep repellent off existing paint. Wipe off any repellent that doesn’t soak in.
4. Brush the bare wood with paintable water repellent. Keep repellent off existing paint. Wipe off any repellent that doesn’t soak in.
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Wood Close to the Ground
5. Slip a folded paper towel underneath the trim, soak the towel with repellent and then squish the towel up with a putty knife to soak the underside. Let dry.
5. Slip a folded paper towel underneath the trim, soak the towel with repellent and then squish the towel up with a putty knife to soak the underside. Let dry.
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Wood Close to the Ground
6. Coat the underside of the trim with primer using a bent putty knife. When the primer is dry, fill joints and nail craters with acrylic caulk.
6. Coat the underside of the trim with primer using a bent putty knife. When the primer is dry, fill joints and nail craters with acrylic caulk.
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Wood Close to the Ground
7. Protect the trim with two coats of quality latex paint. Apply paint to the underside of the trim the same way you applied the primer.
7. Protect the trim with two coats of quality latex paint. Apply paint to the underside of the trim the same way you applied the primer.
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Replacing a Board That Won’t Hold Paint
1. Dig nails out of bad boards by driving a cat’s paw under the nailhead and pulling. Then nudge the board above outward with a pry bar.
1. Dig nails out of bad boards by driving a cat’s paw under the nailhead and pulling. Then nudge the board above outward with a pry bar.
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Replacing a Board That Won’t Hold Paint
2. Pull the nails in the board above carefully. Slide a hacksaw blade under the siding and cut any stubborn nails. Remove the bad board.
2. Pull the nails in the board above carefully. Slide a hacksaw blade under the siding and cut any stubborn nails. Remove the bad board.
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Replacing a Board That Won’t Hold Paint
3. Bend the remaining shank of cut nails down with side cutters or needle-nose pliers. Then grab it with nippers or locking pliers and pull it.
3. Bend the remaining shank of cut nails down with side cutters or needle-nose pliers. Then grab it with nippers or locking pliers and pull it.
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Replacing a Board That Won’t Hold Paint
4. Prime the ends and backside of the new board before you install it. Also prime the exposed ends of adjoining siding.
4. Prime the ends and backside of the new board before you install it. Also prime the exposed ends of adjoining siding.
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Replacing a Board That Won’t Hold Paint
5. Seal nailheads and craters with primer. Then fill the craters with caulk. You can apply acrylic paint right over acrylic latex caulk—no primer needed.
5. Seal nailheads and craters with primer. Then fill the craters with caulk. You can apply acrylic paint right over acrylic latex caulk—no primer needed.
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Painting Siding Close to the Roof
1. Scrape and sand to remove all paint from the area that’s peeled. Keep a nail set handy so you can reset any protruding nails.
1. Scrape and sand to remove all paint from the area that’s peeled. Keep a nail set handy so you can reset any protruding nails.
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Painting Siding Close to the Roof
2. Tear off any cracked or rotted siding, using a cat’s paw and pry bar. Cut nails above bad boards using the technique shown in Photo 2.
2. Tear off any cracked or rotted siding, using a cat’s paw and pry bar. Cut nails above bad boards using the technique shown in Photo 2.
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Painting Siding Close to the Roof
3. Pry up cracked and rotted ends with shims and cut off the bad ends with a hacksaw. Make sure to stagger cuts on adjacent boards so the joints don’t line up.
3. Pry up cracked and rotted ends with shims and cut off the bad ends with a hacksaw. Make sure to stagger cuts on adjacent boards so the joints don’t line up.
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Painting Siding Close to the Roof
4. Cut the siding back from the shingles using a 3/4-in. thick board to guide your saw. Be careful not to cut into the metal flashing.
4. Cut the siding back from the shingles using a 3/4-in. thick board to guide your saw. Be careful not to cut into the metal flashing.
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Painting Siding Close to the Roof
5. Seal the cut ends with water repellent followed by primer so they can’t soak up water. Treat the faces of the siding the same way. Protect the flashing and shingles with tape.
5. Seal the cut ends with water repellent followed by primer so they can’t soak up water. Treat the faces of the siding the same way. Protect the flashing and shingles with tape.
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Painting Siding Close to the Roof
6. Finish the primed siding with two coats of paint. Duck down occasionally and check the undersides of the siding—it’s easy to miss spots where the boards overlap.
6. Finish the primed siding with two coats of paint. Duck down occasionally and check the undersides of the siding—it’s easy to miss spots where the boards overlap.
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