From 
Image 1 of 10
| FIG. A Shelf details |
||
| Cutting List | ||
| KEY | DESCRIPTION | |
| A | 3/4" x 1-1/4" board cut 1-1/2" shorter than the cabinet face width | |
| B | 3/4" x 1-1/4" board cut the same as cabinet depth | |
| C | 3/4" plywood cut 3" longer than the cabinet face width and 1-1/2" deeper than the cabinet depth | |
| D | 1/4" x 3/4" molding cut and mitered to cover exposed plywood | |
| E | Filler piece to fill void between the face frame and the wall | |
| F | 2-1/4" crown molding cut and mitered to fit over cabinet face and under shelf | |
Image 2 of 10
1. Measure the tops of your cabinets to determine your materials list. Also check the distance above the cabinet doors to determine the support cleat height for the shelf.
Image 3 of 10
2. Nail cleats to the
tops of the cabinets to elevate the shelf. Leave 3/4 in. of space
on each side for the side cleats. The side cleats will overhang on
the cabinet side.
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3. Fit the side cleats
so there’s a consistent overhang on the edge. We had to notch the
cleat to fit behind the window molding.
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4. Measure and cut the
top from 3/4-in. plywood, overhanging 1-1/2 in. on the front and
each side.
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5. Nail the top to the
cleats with 2-in. finish nails. Make sure the overhang is even on
each side.
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6. Glue and nail the
3/4-in.-wide edge molding to the exposed plywood edges. Miter the
corners for a more finished appearance.
Image 8 of 10
7. Position your
molding upside down in the miter box to support both the top and
the bottom of the molding. Check the direction of the angle twice
before you cut.
Image 9 of 10
8. Nail the crown
molding to the face of the cabinet and up into the shelf at an
angle. The molding will completely cover the cuts.
Image 10 of 10
9. Fit the side pieces
of crown molding and slip a 3/16-in.-thick filler strip under the
front edge to hide the gap created by the face frame overhang.
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