From 
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Figure A
Fountain Details
Fountain Details
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1. Draw an 18-in. diameter circle on 3/4-in. plywood. Saw it out with a jigsaw. Drill a 5/8-in. hole in the center. Cut a 60-in. length of 4-in. wide galvanized metal flashing. Run a strip of double-faced carpet tape along the top and bottom edge. Then wrap the flashing around the plywood circle.
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2. Drive 1/2-in. sheet metal screws through the flashing at 8-in. intervals to secure it to the plywood. Line the flashing with a 60-in. length of foam sill sealer. To make a flush seam, cut through both thicknesses of foam with a utility knife where they overlap.
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3. Insert a 4-in. length of 1/2-in. copper pipe into the hole and hold it in place with a wrap of rope caulk. Press a double-wide bead of rope caulk in a circle around the bottom of the form about 3/4 in. away from the foam liner. Trim the foam flush with the top of the metal.
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4. Cut a 20-in. length of 8-in. round metal duct with a tin snips. Then cut the locking edge from the length of the duct. Drill a 5/8-in. hole in about the center of the sheet, 3-1/2 in. from the bottom edge.
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5. Coil the duct with the remaining locking edge to the outside and slip it inside the 5-in. end cap and 5-in. coupler to form a cylinder. Wrap the cylinder with three layers of duct tape to secure it (see next photo). Cut 20-in. and 4-in. lengths of 1/2-in. copper pipe and join them as shown with epoxy. Slip the assembled pipe into the cylinder. Reinstall the pipe and glue a 1/2- to 3/8-in. reducer to the short pipe that exits through the side of the form. Hold the pipe in place with duct tape.
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6. Coat the entire inside surface of both forms with a layer of oil (spray lubricant is easy to apply). Mix
1-1/2 bags of concrete mix to form a stiff, not runny, batch. Mix with a hoe for at least five minutes. Fill the tall cylinder while holding the pipe in the center. Tap the outside with a scrap of wood to settle the concrete and release trapped air. Fill the foam-lined top half-full. Lay 12-in. lengths of 3/8-in. reinforcing bar (rebar) in a tick-tack-toe pattern on top of the concrete. Continue adding concrete until it's flush to the top of the form.
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7. Settle the concrete and remove trapped air by tapping the bottom of the form with a hammer. Add concrete if necessary to fill the form. Continue tapping and circling for about two minutes.
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8. Let the concrete harden until the water on the surface has soaked in or evaporated and your thumb pressed into the surface just barely leaves an indentation. Then rub a block of wood in a circular motion over the surface to bring a layer of soupy cement and sand to the surface.
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9. Smooth the soupy layer of cement with a steel trowel. Let the concrete harden overnight.
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10. Remove the sheet metal screws and unwrap the concrete wheel. Carefully place the wheel upside down on the bucket and remove the plywood. Protect the top surface by placing strips of foam between the bucket and concrete. Grab the copper pipe with a locking pliers or pipe wrench and twist and pull to remove it from the concrete. Remove the metal form from the tall cylinder.
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11. Lay 30-in. lengths of rebar over the plastic tub to create a 5-in. square opening in the center for the concrete column. Drill two small holes through the tub at the end of each rebar and secure the rebar with twists of wire. Leave the end of one rebar loose until the column is in position. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the tub plus a 2-in. deep layer of sand.
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12. Level the sand base and set the tub in place. Pack dirt around it to the bottom of the rim. Set the column in place and use a level to make sure the sides are vertical and the flat area on top is level. Pour a 1-1/2 in. layer of concrete into the bottom of the liner to stabilize the column. Let the concrete set overnight.
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13. Cut a square of 1/4-in. hardware cloth 4 in. larger than the diameter of the tub and bend down a 2-in. lip all around to form a mesh cover. Leave an extra inch of mesh when you cut the opening shown and bend it around the rebar to hide the sharp edges. Cut another small rectangle of hardware cloth to cover the opening. Connect the pump to the copper pipe with 5/8-in. plastic tube and hose clamps.
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14. Place a bead of polyurethane construction adhesive around the top of the column and lower the concrete wheel over the copper pipe. Check the top with a level and shim between the column and wheel if necessary to level the top surface. Use strips cut from plastic bottles for shims.
It would be nice to see a picture of the completed project.