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Replace Broken Deck Boards
You don't have to let a split, rotted or otherwise ugly deck board ruin the appearance of your deck. Simply replace it and in a year or so the replacement will blend right in.
You usually don't have to replace an entire board. Just make sure to cut out a piece that spans at least three joists. The remainder should be at least that long. And don't hesitate to cut out a little extra to keep adjacent decking joints staggered for better appearance.
The most difficult part is cutting out the damaged section cleanly. Don't try to cut directly over a joist. Instead, cut to one side and screw on a cleat to support the new decking. It's a fairly hefty cut for a jigsaw, so use a sharp, stiff blade to keep your cuts as straight and smooth as possible.
Photo 1: Draw a square line on the decking to one side of a joist below. Cut the deck board with a jigsaw. Pull the decking nails with a cat's paw.
You don't have to let a split, rotted or otherwise ugly deck board ruin the appearance of your deck. Simply replace it and in a year or so the replacement will blend right in.
You usually don't have to replace an entire board. Just make sure to cut out a piece that spans at least three joists. The remainder should be at least that long. And don't hesitate to cut out a little extra to keep adjacent decking joints staggered for better appearance.
The most difficult part is cutting out the damaged section cleanly. Don't try to cut directly over a joist. Instead, cut to one side and screw on a cleat to support the new decking. It's a fairly hefty cut for a jigsaw, so use a sharp, stiff blade to keep your cuts as straight and smooth as possible.
Photo 1: Draw a square line on the decking to one side of a joist below. Cut the deck board with a jigsaw. Pull the decking nails with a cat's paw.
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Predrill screw holes in the cleats so they pull tight to the joists. Also pull up on them so they butt tightly against the decking on each side as you screw them in.
Photo 2: Predrill three clearance holes in two 16-in. treated wood cleats. Apply construction adhesive, hold each cleat tight to neighboring deck boards, and screw one to the joists at each end of the repair.
Photo 2: Predrill three clearance holes in two 16-in. treated wood cleats. Apply construction adhesive, hold each cleat tight to neighboring deck boards, and screw one to the joists at each end of the repair.
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Cut the new deck board from matching material, both in thickness and wood type. It'll look different initially, but it'll blend in after a year or so, especially if you clean and reseal or stain your deck. Cut the new deck board to fit snugly, then screw or nail it into place.
Photo 3: Cut the replacement board to length. Then tap it into place with a hammer and a wood block. Predrill pilot holes and drive a pair of 2-1/2 in. deck screws (or galvanized nails) into each cleat. Fasten at all other joists as well.
Photo 3: Cut the replacement board to length. Then tap it into place with a hammer and a wood block. Predrill pilot holes and drive a pair of 2-1/2 in. deck screws (or galvanized nails) into each cleat. Fasten at all other joists as well.
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