From 
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Cut the Openings
Draw plumb lines at stud locations, then mark the rough opening height (34 in. from the floor to the bottom and 83 in. to the top). Adjust this height above the floor, if necessary, so the message center lines up with nearby door or window trim.
Check the studs for plumb and adjust the box dimensions as needed to fit cleanly between them. Our center stud was plumb, but the left and right sides were out of plumb by 1/8 in. in opposite directions, so we made the two boxes 14-1/4 in. wide instead of 14-1/2 in. wide and left 1-5/8 in. between them. It’s generally best to leave the center stud in place.
Figure A Message center details*
* Part names and dimensions are in Cutting List.
Top Section View
Draw plumb lines at stud locations, then mark the rough opening height (34 in. from the floor to the bottom and 83 in. to the top). Adjust this height above the floor, if necessary, so the message center lines up with nearby door or window trim.
Check the studs for plumb and adjust the box dimensions as needed to fit cleanly between them. Our center stud was plumb, but the left and right sides were out of plumb by 1/8 in. in opposite directions, so we made the two boxes 14-1/4 in. wide instead of 14-1/2 in. wide and left 1-5/8 in. between them. It’s generally best to leave the center stud in place.
Figure A Message center details*
* Part names and dimensions are in Cutting List.
Top Section View
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Wall Openings
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Side Section View
Build The Boxes
Our message center spans two stud cavities, with a deep side for shelves and miscellaneous storage and a shallow side for a cork message board and calendar. To maximize space, we made the sides of the deep box from 1/2-in. birch plywood and the sides of the shallow message board from 1/2-in. x 3/4-in. pine. Nailing trim to a 1/2-in. edge is finicky work, so use a brad nailer or predrill the nail holes.
Cut the backs and side pieces from a 4 x 4-ft. sheet of 1/2-in. birch plywood using a table saw or a circular saw with an edge guide. If you use a circular saw, cut from the backside to avoid chipping the birch veneer. If possible, gang-cut pieces that are the same length (Photo 4). Use 1/2-in. plywood for the back for rigidity and give solid support for the cork board and any other items you want to mount.
Cut the long sides of the boxes 47-7/8 in. (A, A1), and nail the top and bottom pieces (B, B1) 1 in. in from the end to create nailer legs for the top and bottom trim pieces (F); see Photo 5. Glue and nail the back (C) down onto the box, aligning the edges and squaring the box as you nail. Tack down the back with 1-in. brad nails; longer nails might angle and break through the plywood sides. Use a damp cloth to wipe off any glue that oozes to the inside.
Install Shelves
We nailed the shelves (E) into place before joining the two boxes. Gang-cut the shelves from 1x4 pine, then slide them into position and hold them tight against square blocks of wood clamped to the sides. Mark the center of the shelf on the outside of the box frame to ensure accurate nailing. Use four 1-1/2 in. brads on each side and then flip the box over, connect the nailing lines from each side across the back, and shoot a few brads in through the plywood back for extra strength and rigidity.
Join the Boxes With the Trim
Line the two boxes up with each other, then glue and nail the center trim (G) to join the sides, leaving a 1/16-in. reveal on each side. Center the center trim lengthwise to leave it about 1/4 in. short of each end. When you attach the top and bottom sills (H), this will give you a 1/4-in. lip to help keep papers and odds and ends from sliding out the bottom. Remove the spacer blocks after nailing the center trim.
Glue and nail the sills (H) at the top and bottom edges of the boxes. Center them on the center trim. They’ll overlap the side trim by about 1/2 in. Then glue and nail the side trim (G) flush with the edges of the boxes. Nail the sills to the side trim as well with 1-1/2 in. brads. Cut the nailers (D) and nail them to the tops and bottoms of the boxes to support the top and bottom trim. Finally, glue and nail on the slats (J); see Photo 9 and Figure A.
Take a break and let the glue set up. Then sand out all the rough edges. Paint it now, rather than waiting until it’s up.
Build The Boxes
Our message center spans two stud cavities, with a deep side for shelves and miscellaneous storage and a shallow side for a cork message board and calendar. To maximize space, we made the sides of the deep box from 1/2-in. birch plywood and the sides of the shallow message board from 1/2-in. x 3/4-in. pine. Nailing trim to a 1/2-in. edge is finicky work, so use a brad nailer or predrill the nail holes.
Cut the backs and side pieces from a 4 x 4-ft. sheet of 1/2-in. birch plywood using a table saw or a circular saw with an edge guide. If you use a circular saw, cut from the backside to avoid chipping the birch veneer. If possible, gang-cut pieces that are the same length (Photo 4). Use 1/2-in. plywood for the back for rigidity and give solid support for the cork board and any other items you want to mount.
Cut the long sides of the boxes 47-7/8 in. (A, A1), and nail the top and bottom pieces (B, B1) 1 in. in from the end to create nailer legs for the top and bottom trim pieces (F); see Photo 5. Glue and nail the back (C) down onto the box, aligning the edges and squaring the box as you nail. Tack down the back with 1-in. brad nails; longer nails might angle and break through the plywood sides. Use a damp cloth to wipe off any glue that oozes to the inside.
Install Shelves
We nailed the shelves (E) into place before joining the two boxes. Gang-cut the shelves from 1x4 pine, then slide them into position and hold them tight against square blocks of wood clamped to the sides. Mark the center of the shelf on the outside of the box frame to ensure accurate nailing. Use four 1-1/2 in. brads on each side and then flip the box over, connect the nailing lines from each side across the back, and shoot a few brads in through the plywood back for extra strength and rigidity.
Join the Boxes With the Trim
Line the two boxes up with each other, then glue and nail the center trim (G) to join the sides, leaving a 1/16-in. reveal on each side. Center the center trim lengthwise to leave it about 1/4 in. short of each end. When you attach the top and bottom sills (H), this will give you a 1/4-in. lip to help keep papers and odds and ends from sliding out the bottom. Remove the spacer blocks after nailing the center trim.
Glue and nail the sills (H) at the top and bottom edges of the boxes. Center them on the center trim. They’ll overlap the side trim by about 1/2 in. Then glue and nail the side trim (G) flush with the edges of the boxes. Nail the sills to the side trim as well with 1-1/2 in. brads. Cut the nailers (D) and nail them to the tops and bottoms of the boxes to support the top and bottom trim. Finally, glue and nail on the slats (J); see Photo 9 and Figure A.
Take a break and let the glue set up. Then sand out all the rough edges. Paint it now, rather than waiting until it’s up.
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Set the Message Center Into the Wall
The message center should slide right into the opening that you cut in the wall and cover all the rough edges as well. Level it and adjust the height before nailing it to the studs through the trim with 2-1/2 in. finish nails.
We installed our doors after mounting the cabinet in the wall, but it would have been easier to do it before. We installed a door (K) on the upper part of the deep box, and a small, drop-down writing surface (L) below it. Special hinges hold the drop-down door at 90 degrees without supports. These doors are both inset, so they have to be aligned with each other and evenly spaced in relation to the trim. This can take some time and patience. At first, install the hinges with only one screw in the adjustable slot, then lock them into place with additional screws after all adjustments are complete.
Fill and sand all nail holes, then paint the message center if you haven’t already done so. Finally, install knobs on the doors and put the message center to use.
The message center should slide right into the opening that you cut in the wall and cover all the rough edges as well. Level it and adjust the height before nailing it to the studs through the trim with 2-1/2 in. finish nails.
We installed our doors after mounting the cabinet in the wall, but it would have been easier to do it before. We installed a door (K) on the upper part of the deep box, and a small, drop-down writing surface (L) below it. Special hinges hold the drop-down door at 90 degrees without supports. These doors are both inset, so they have to be aligned with each other and evenly spaced in relation to the trim. This can take some time and patience. At first, install the hinges with only one screw in the adjustable slot, then lock them into place with additional screws after all adjustments are complete.
Fill and sand all nail holes, then paint the message center if you haven’t already done so. Finally, install knobs on the doors and put the message center to use.
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1. Find nearby studs with a stud finder, then cut a small opening with a utility knife in each stud cavity and check for obstructions. Save the cutouts in case you have to repair the wall.
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2. Cut the opening to the desired height and size of your message center, following the studs with the drywall saw. Smooth ragged edges with a rasp or knife.
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3. Check the studs for plumb, and adjust the width and spacing of the boxes as needed in your plan to allow them to slip in easily.
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4. Cut out all the pieces, following the dimensions in the Cutting List or your own plan. Clamp and gang-cut matching parts when possible.
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5. Glue and nail the sides, top and bottom first, then glue and nail on the 1/2-in. plywood back (C) to square each box. Wipe off excess glue with a damp rag.
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6. Cut and nail the shelves into the deep box. Clamp square blocks to the sides to hold the shelf at a right angle while you nail it.
CAUTION:
Keep hands well away from the power nailer.
CAUTION:
Keep hands well away from the power nailer.
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7. Prop the shallow box even with the deeper one, space them with a 1-5/8 in. block and clamp them. Nail on the center trim (G).
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8. Center the top and bottom sills (H) and glue and nail them to the center trim. Glue and nail the side trim (G) to the sides and to the sills. Glue and nail 3/4-in. x 3/4-in. blocks to the top and bottom for nailers (D).
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9. Nail on the top and bottom trim (F). Position and clamp the two 1/2-in. x 3/4-in. crossbars (J). Nail with 1-in. brads.
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10. Set the completed message center in the opening and level it. Then nail through the trim into the studs to secure it.
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11. Screw hinges to the doors and align them in the openings. Inset doors can be fussy to adjust—use just one screw per hinge until you complete the alignment (see tip).
TIP
Since the lower door hinge doesn’t have slotted holes for easy adjustment, use a round-head screw for the first hole instead of a self-centering, flat one so that the hinge has a little room to slide around.
TIP
Since the lower door hinge doesn’t have slotted holes for easy adjustment, use a round-head screw for the first hole instead of a self-centering, flat one so that the hinge has a little room to slide around.
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