From About This Project
Copper is an ideal outdoor material for garden structures. It has a warm, natural look, whether shiny or tarnished. It lasts for years without upkeep. And it’s easy to work with and relatively inexpensive.
We built this copper garden trellis from standard 1/2-in. and 3/4-in. type M copper plumbing tubes. We’ll show you a unique joining method that allows you to solder the tubing together without fittings. To simplify the process, we’ll show you how to assemble a simple 2x4 jig to keep the tubes aligned while you solder them. Don’t worry if you’ve never soldered copper. This project is a great place to learn, since you don’t have to be concerned about critical plumbing joints leaking. If you goof up and one of the joints lets loose, just resolder it.
Even working at a casual pace, you’ll be able to complete this project in a weekend. You can pick up all the materials and tools at a home center. You’ll need a tubing cutter ($12 to $23), propane torch ($10 to $30), propane canister ($3), emery cloth, roll of solder, flux and flux brush for the soldering work, and a hammer and saw to build the jig. If you want to anchor the trellis in the ground, buy a 10-ft. length of 1/2-in. electrical conduit (EMT). You’ll find it in the electrical department. Including the jig and EMT, the materials will cost about $50.
Cut the Tubing and Build the Jig
If you object to the lettering on the
copper tubes, remove it with steel wool or an abrasive nylon pad. Then mark and cut the lengths of copper needed following the Cutting List. You could use a hacksaw to cut the tubing, but a tubing cutter is much easier to use and results in a
cleaner cut. Start by snugging the wheel onto the tube at the cutting mark. Spin the cutter once around and tighten it a little. Continue spinning and tightening until the tube is cut. After a few tries, you’ll know how much to tighten it each time for the most efficient
cutting. If you plan to build several trellises, buy a top-quality tubing cutter. The Ridgid model No. 150 ($23) shown is one
example. It will last a lifetime and give better results with less effort than an inexpensive cutter.
How To Build a Copper Trellis for Your Garden
Use the 2x4 Jig to Keep Tubes Aligned
The 2x4 jig makes assembling the frames almost foolproof. Start by setting the four 30-in. tubes between the outermost pairs of nails. With the tubes in place, it’s an easy task to mark
where they intersect the 3/4-in. upright tubes. Then sand and flux the marked areas. Make sure to orient the curled spear
points in the same direction. Measure 8 in. from the top of the upright to the top of the horizontal tube and secure it with a
spring clamp (Photo 8).After you solder
the first joint, remove the clamp and solder the remaining three joints. Remove the half-built frame from the jig and form the
opposite ends of the crosspieces (Photo
9). Repeat the steps in
Photos 6–8 to complete the main frame.
Build the ladder frame the same way. Measure down 12 in. from the top of the spear to the center of the first tube. And then solder the five 18-in. tubes to the upright tubes. Slide the tubes all the way to one side to solder the first tube. Then slide them to the opposite side to solder the second upright. Otherwise you’ll burn the wood with the torch. Remove the completed ladder frame from the jig and reinstall the main frame between the nails.
Solder the Two Frames Together
Clip the ladder frame back into the
jig on top of the main frame. Mark all eight points where the two frames intersect. Mark both frames. Then remove the ladder
frame and flip it over to sand and flux the marked areas. Also sand and flux the marked areas on the main frame. Replace the
ladder frame and solder the two frames together (Photo
13). Repeat this process for the two additional tubes. There are no nails in the jig for the final two tubes.
Position them according to the dimensions in
Figure B and use spring clamps to hold them
in place for soldering (Photo
14).
|
Key |
Qty. |
Size & Description |
|
A |
2 |
80" lengths of 3/4" copper tubing |
|
B |
4 |
30" lengths of 1/2" copper tubing |
|
C |
2 |
69" lengths of 1/2" copper tubing |
|
D |
5 |
18" lengths of 1/2" copper tubing |
|
E |
2 |
57" lengths of 1/2" copper tubing |
These instructions are basically useless. First, as already pointed out, there are NO instructions provided for the jig to be built; Second, there does not appear to be a translation list for us non-plumbers, i.e., what is a "curled spear point" (is that something we throw at the author?); Third, I could find none of the promised photographs, although the project DOES quote photos 9 and 10, so they exist somewhere . . . perhaps under the curled spear point?
I received this project in an email May 15th; printed it out and took it home to my husband that day and by Sunday, May 17th, he had it made and installed to support the new wisteria vine I had just planted. I am so proud of him and it looks fantastic - he can make or do anything and your project instructions were obviously clear and concise (I have several photos I'd like to send the magazine). He's making more for family gifts! Dixie & Dan Stoller Fort Worth, Texas
Where are the patterns for these projects? It would be most helpful if we knew what we were supposed to be doing.
This article does not have instruction on how to build the jig. What does ""between the outermost pairs of nails" mean? What does "curled spear points" mean? The article is useless without this information.
This article does not have instruction on how to buils the jig. What does ""between the outermost pairs of nails" mean? What does "curled spear points" mean? The article is useless without this information.