From Make Long, Level Lines With a Short Level
Wainscoting, wallpaper borders and suspended ceilings all require a level line before you can start installing them. Here’s a tip I learned from a suspended-ceiling installer (before low-priced laser levels became available). It’s simple. Carefully adjust your level at the correct height until the bubble is perfectly centered and mark the wall at both ends of the level. You must have an accurate level, because any error will be multiplied by the length of the line. Then stretch a chalk line across the marks to extend the line. Use the longest level you own. It’s best to have a helper who can hold the other end of the line and stretch it tight while you align it with both marks. Then snap the chalk line and double-check to make sure it’s exactly aligned with the marks. If you’re careful, you can expect the line to be accurate within 1/4 in. over 12 ft.
Mark the wall at both ends of the level.
Stretch a chalk line across the marks and pull it tight. Snap it when it’s perfectly aligned with both
marks.
Lasers Work Great for Long-Distance Leveling
There are many types of laser levels that simplify long-distance leveling. The $50 version we’re showing is a small “torpedo” level with a built-in laser light (RoboToolz RT-3210-1 from robotoolz.com, 800-984-0404). Turn on the laser light and adjust the level until the bubble is centered between the lines. The point of visible laser light will be level with a reference mark on the body of the level. More expensive laser levels have self-leveling mechanisms that eliminate the need to adjust the bubble.
You can mount laser levels on a tripod, but if you don’t own a tripod, thread a 1/4-in. No. 20 machine screw into the hole on the bottom of the level, letting it protrude about 1/4 in. to serve as a pivot point. Set the level onto the pivot and use shims to center the bubble (photo below). Mark the wall at the dot of light and measure up or down to the desired height. Then swivel the laser on the pivot, level it, mark the wall again, and measure up or down the same distance. Snap a line between the points.
Click image to enlarge.
Adjust the torpedo with shims to level it. Mark the wall at the point of light. Swivel the level on the pivot and adjust it with shims again. Mark the wall at the new location.
Build Walls Plumb With a Plumb Bob
One of the quickest and easiest ways to plumb up or down from any given point is with a plumb bob. The brass plumb bob shown costs about $12, but less expensive versions will work just as well. We’re using the plumb bob to transfer wall layout marks from the ceiling to the floor. Suspend the plumb bob about 1/2 in. above the floor and center the point exactly over the intersecting lines. Then mark the location on the ceiling. The key to accuracy is to wait for the bob to stop swinging. To speed things up, ask a helper to steady the plumb bob while you adjust the position of the string. Plumb bobs have one major drawback: They don’t work in windy conditions.
Drop the plumb bob from the ceiling and suspend it about 1/2 in. above your floor.
Ask a helper to steady the plumb bob and tell you which way to move the string to center it over the point on the floor.
Slope Pipes With a Shim
The next time you need to put a consistent slope on pipes, concrete formwork or land-scaping projects, try this hint. Tape a shim to one end of your level to establish the desired slope—say, 1/4 in. per foot for a drain. Center the bubble and your project will be perfectly sloped. Calculate the thickness of the shim by multiplying the length of your level in feet by the desired slope (inches per foot). We wanted 1/4-in. per foot slope on this drainpipe, so for our 2-ft. level we needed a 1/2-in. thick shim. If it’s more convenient to set the level on top of your project, tape the shim to the bottom instead.
Click image to enlarge.
Tape a shim to one end of your level and use it to set the slope of plumbing pipes.
Check the Accuracy of Your Level
I’ve never understood how it happens, but it seems like every level eventually gets a little “off.” In some cases, this small inaccuracy won’t matter. But if you’re doing finicky work like setting kitchen cabinets or installing doors and windows, you’ll want an accurate level. The photos show how to check your level. Expensive levels may be worth repairing. Call the manufacturer to find out if yours is repairable. When you’re buying a new level, use the same technique to check it for accuracy before leaving the store with it.
Follow the same procedure to check the level’s accuracy in the “plumb,” or vertical, position. You’ll have to hold the playing cards in place while you check the level.
Shim the end of your level with playing cards until the bubble is centered. (If the bubble is already centered, you won’t need any cards.) We’ve marked one end of the level with blue tape to distinguish it from the opposite end.
Rotate the level 180 degrees (end for end) and rest it on the same stack of cards. If the bubble is in the center, your level is accurate. If not, have it repaired or get a new level.
Block a Straightedge for Crooked Walls
You could plumb a wall by simply setting your level against the stud, but it wouldn’t give you an accurate reading unless the stud was perfectly straight and smooth. The method shown spans irregularities in the stud and allows you to align the top and bottom plates exactly plumb with each other. Make sure the spacer blocks are the same thickness and that the board they’re attached to is perfectly straight. Check to make sure your setup is accurate by flipping it end for end. You should get the same reading on the level. If not, the straightedge may be crooked.
SPACER BLOCK DETAIL
Plumb walls using a straight board with spacer blocks of equal thickness nailed to each end.