From 2. "Check for ASE [National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence] or AAA [American Automobile Association] certification, as well as a state license. Reputable shops are proud to display them."
3. "Ask, ask, ask. For recommendations, years in business, warranties offered, licenses, and the type of equipment used. Look for a clean garage. A floor cluttered with empty oil cans, worn tires, and dirty rags is a red flag."
4. "Never sign a blank authorization form. Always get a signed work order with a specific estimate for each job and warranties that apply."
5. "It's nuts to take a car with engine problems to a shop without a good engine analyzer and scan tool. Any mechanic who says 'I don't need fancy equipment' should be avoided."
6. "Synthetic motor oils may cost more, but you'll get a lot more miles between changes."
7. "When you go for a second opinion, don't tell the mechanic what the first diagnosis and price were."
8. "Coolant flushes and power steering flushes are very common gimmicks at quick lubes. Check your owner's manual; many cars have fluid that is designed to go 100,000 miles. And cleaning fuel injectors is a waste of time and money. There are additives on the market that do a great job."
9. "Always ask for OE [original equipment] brake pads or at least equivalent material. A $49.95 brake job will usually get you the worst friction material you can buy-it's the difference between stopping short and causing a pileup on the way to work."
10. "Ask about your new tire's 'build date.' If you're getting an unusually good deal, you might be receiving three-year-old treads, especially risky for snow tires."
11. "Lifetime mufflers? What would ever make you think a muffler will last a lifetime? Yes, they'll give you free replacements, but they'll hit you over the head for expensive pipe repairs."
12. "Consult your dealer before you have work done on a catalytic converter or emissions parts. Some of these items carry a very long warranty, and free replacement is often required by law."
13. "It's not okay for your 'check engine' light to stay on all the time. It's probably not 'a loose gas cap.'"
SOURCES: Gary Montesi, owner, Montesi Volkswagen, North Haven, connecticut; Domenic DiSiena, manager, Bedford (New York) Shell; Bob Sikorsky, automotive writer, Tucson, Arizona; anonymous mechanics in Minnesota and New York
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I sell lifetime warrantied mufflers,brakes,etc.If other components are within manufacturer's specification,i.e.pipes not leaking and strong,rotors not grooved,I do NOT "hit you over the head for expensive pipe repairs." Motorist Assurance Program requires the same standards to be used uniformly throughout the repair industry.If a facility does not use MAP standards question repair needs.I would be afraid to drive a vehicle that has boiled brake fluid or condensation(brake failure-no stop!)
I have the best mechanic in the world. His shop is not the neatest, but he listens to me and my car. He will pick up my van and deliver it when it's done. When I needed new tires, he sent back the first set because they weren't 'agressive' enough - he knows the driving I do. He might not be A-list, but he's fair and he's good. Neatness isn't everything when it comes to a mechanic. I wouldn't trade Mark for all the fancy garages in the world..
Know your car's warranty. The manufacturer may specify fluid changes and other maintenance at specific intervals. Missing even one can give them the chance to void your warranty. Once the warranty is over, however, buyer beware. And if you have major budget issues, let the shop know in advance. Often an issue can be solved with a cheaper pulled or rebuilt part, which can be just as reliable. Note that this only applies to "solid" parts, with no electronics,motors/pumps, or bearings.
Please be very careful if , as is recommended , you use a SYNTHETIC OIL in an older car ....I knew better but believed the label when it stated that "This Oil is Good for Older Vehicles" .....IT ISN"T !!! Our 10 year old car , a Subaru , experienced steady oil leaks at its seals and oil pump , the cost to repair , over $600 ... We fortunately caught and drained the synthetic oil I stupidly put in our other Subaru .. It had just started to leak at the same seals ...
who are these people you talked to, coolant flushes isnt only about the fluid, its the rust and scale build up in the system that can lead to costly repairs, like water pump, heater core,radiator plugged.as for cleaning injectors, there are no parts store chemicals as good as professional cleaning performed by a shop
Good job RD....what were you thinking. Maybe you should recommend patronizing Motorist Assurance Program Accreditted facilities. ASE is good but MAP provides for many promises and arbitration should something go wrong. As far as your advice on unnecessary fluid services, alignments etc....70% of vehicles on the raod have some sort of alignment issue, fluids go bad or lose their lubricity. Brake fluid absorbs water, thus reducing thier bloiling point..etc. Please publish facts not fiction