ORGANIZE YOUR WORK SO YOU'LL NEVER HAVE TO STOP

Follow a sequence of steps (as our photos show) that'll allow you to let one part of the prep work dry while you go on to the next chore. The first few steps will give you the idea: Seal water stains on the ceiling and, while they're drying, sand, degloss and prime the woodwork. While the primer dries, put the first coat of paint on the ceiling and so on. If you're the kind of person who would prefer to work your tail off for a weekend rather than stretch the project out over several relaxed days, this story is especially for you. But even if you prefer the laid-back approach to painting, following these steps will yield excellent results with less hassle.

Allow a weekend to completely finish two average-sized rooms. You should try to get through Photo 10 on Saturday. You'll need to hustle, but you'll complete the bulk of the work. Saturday's caulking will dry overnight so you can tape the woodwork and finish up on Sunday. You'll be done with the whole job in time to have supper and catch "60 Minutes" that night.

SPEND 15 MINUTES CLEARING THE ROOM

Painting is enough of a chore without having to weave your way through a room full of furnishings. Remove everything you can, including couches and dressers. If something is too large or heavy to move, put it in the middle of the room and cover it with .5-mil painter's plastic. Complete the paint prep work by taping the carpeting down to the bottom of the baseboards (Photo 1) and running dropcloths over the top of the tape. It's worth investing in canvas dropcloths to protect your floors. Although you may be tempted to substitute cheap plastic sheeting, canvas stays put and offers a non-slip surface. It's easiest to buy a couple of 9 x 12-ft. drops, but you could just buy one and move it around to follow your painting.


PROTECT the carpet with 3-in. masking tape. Run the tape about 1/2 in. onto the face of the baseboard and push it down under the base with a wallpaper smoothing tool. (Putty knives will cut the tape when you're forcing it down.) Lay dropcloths over the floor and on top of the tape. Remove all switch plate covers, put tape over the outlets and switches and remove all wall-mounted grates. Also cover any hardware, such as doorstops and hinges, and remove knobs and door strike plates.
CAUTION: Don't turn on light if bulb is covered.
REMOVE light fixture covers and mask the bases with plastic bags and tape. Then seal old water stains with a spray stain killer.

SAND all the woodwork with 100-grit (medium) sanding sponges to slightly roughen smooth, hard surfaces and to dull glossy finishes.
CAUTION: Use a respirator (rated for organic solvents) or provide good ventilation when using solvent-based primers, sealers or bonding agents.
DEGLOSS and clean the woodwork with a deglosser-cleaner for better paint adhesion or when the old paint contains lead. Also clean any areas on walls (such as around light switches) where there may be hand oil deposits. Ideally, you should prime between 10 and 30 minutes after applying the bonding agent. But read the label. Some agents need to be painted immediately; others need to dry first.
 
TIP:


Sanding sponges
work great for
sanding trim
with contours
and corners.

Caution:

If your home was built before 1978, test your paint for lead before sanding or scraping it. Lead in dust causes lead poisoning, especially in young children. Use a test kit available from any paint store, or contact your local health department for the addresses of reliable testing labs. If you have lead paint that's in good condition, use a deglosser (Photo 4) rather than sanding it. If your lead paint is flaking, see July/Aug. '98, p. 67, or call 800-424-LEAD for the free EPA guide, "Reducing Lead Hazards When Remodeling Your Home."

 
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Paint Like A Pro Day One - Preparation Day One - Priming & Painting
Day One - Priming & Painting continued Day Two - Finishing Up
Selecting High Quality Tools & Paint Products

Features • Paint Like A Pro • October 1999
© 1999 The Family Handyman