Day One - Priming & Painting
TIPS FOR BUYING PAINT

I knew I was in trouble the first minute of the first day of class for an engineering physics course. Well, I felt the same way the first time I went into a paint store to pick out the paint for my new house. Hundreds of paints, dozens of implements and shelves of special additives and cleaners.

Here's what you need to know before selecting paint. Stick with a national manufacturer and buy one of its higher grades.

Make sure to buy enough paint to finish the job. If you have to leave a half-finished wall to run and get more paint, the overlap will show, even if the color is a perfect match. A gallon of paint typically covers 400 to 450 sq. ft. Estimate the number of square feet you'll be painting by measuring the total footage around the perimeter of the room and multiplying by the ceiling height in feet. Don't subtract for windows, doors or other openings unless they're enormous. Ceiling areas are easily determined just by calculating the width times the depth of the room. Two or 3 qts. of wall paint cost nearly the same as a gallon, so round up to the next gallon if you need a fraction greater than one-half.

An average room's worth of trim including baseboards and a door or two will need a quart each of primer and one of semigloss trim paint. Have the store shake the cans for you, and stir them every time you paint.

 

PRIME the woodwork with a solvent-based (oil or alcohol) primer, not a water-based latex. Paint smaller trim such as casings, base and door jambs with a 2-in. brush, and roll doors with a 7-in. wide, 1/4-in. nap roller sleeve on a 7-in. roller frame. Don't be overly concerned if you slop some primer on adjoining walls, but be sure to smooth out large globs of paint. If you don't, they'll show through the wall paint later.
TIP:

Need a break? Leave the roller in the paint tray and cover the whole works with plastic wrap. Wrap brushes in aluminum foil or plastic to keep them from drying out.
  


ROLL on ceiling white with a 9-in. wide, 3/4-in. nap roller sleeve on a 9-in. roller frame. Roll as lightly as possible on this first coat in one direction only. Your objective is to apply a coat of paint to lock in the rough particles so they'll stay put when you do the second, thicker coat. You're painting two sides of each texture particle; you'll pick up the other two sides when you recoat in the opposite direction. Again, don't worry too much about slopping some paint on the walls, but avoid a large buildup.
 


SAND the walls with 100-grit sandpaper to remove bumps from the old paint job, rough edges of drywall paper around any gouges and any other imperfections. A drywall sander (photo, High Quality Tools) will make the job easier. Sand primed woodwork with a medium-grit sanding sponge. Fill any wall blemishes such as nail holes and gouges with a non-shrinking spackling compound and lightly sand after they're dry. Dust all the woodwork with an old, soft paint brush or duster. Caulk all wall/woodwork joints with a paintable white silicone/latex caulk. Cut a small (1/8-in.) hole in the end of the nozzle. Wipe off excess and smooth caulk beads with a damp synthetic sponge.
 
Previous Page    Next Page
 
Paint Like A Pro Day One - Preparation Day One - Priming & Painting
Day One - Priming & Painting continued Day Two - Finishing Up
Selecting High Quality Tools & Paint Products

Features • Paint Like A Pro • October 1999
© 1999 The Family Handyman