
Fill in gouges with colored putty sticks, sold at most hardware
stores and home centers. This putty works well for small holes and
nicks but is somewhat trickier to use as a fill for larger damage
like we show here. Unlike hardening putties, it remains soft and
somewhat flexible, so you have to shape it carefully. And it won’t
hold up under heavy wear.
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BUY
several sticks of putty similar to the color of the stain
you want to match. Scrape flakes from each, then mix and knead
them with your fingertips until the color is right. The heat
from your fingers also softens the putty for easy application.
Make the patch slightly darker than the furniture; lighter will
be more obvious. |
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PRESS
putty tightly into the gouge with a small flat stick, then flatten
it and scrape away the excess with the stick’s long edge. Round
the end of the stick with sandpaper. |
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WIPE
AWAY any putty adhering to the wood around the gouge,
and smooth the surface of the putty with a clean cloth. A
thin, light-colored line will usually appear around the perimeter
of the patch. Use a matching marker to color this line, as
shown in Photo 2 under 'Touch Up Scratches'.
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SPRAY
the patch with two or three quick passes of shellac, then after
it dries, a few quick passes of spray lacquer—either high gloss
or satin, depending on your furniture’s finish. Never apply
lacquer or polyure-thane/varnish directly over a putty patch;
it will leave a permanently soft mess. Shellac will harden;
however, the patch will remain somewhat pliable under the finish,
so don’t attempt this on a heavy-wear surface. |
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You can buff out fine scratches using very fine (0000)
steel wool saturated with clear Danish oil. (You can also use ultra-fine
automotive rubbing compound.) The process shown here only works for
scratches in the finish itself, not scratches that are all the way
into the stain or the wood.
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POUR
a generous amount of clear or neutral Danish oil onto a very
fine steel wool pad. Rub the surface with the oil-saturated
pad using your flat hand. Rub with the grain, never against
it or at an angle to it. Continue rubbing until you remove
enough of the clear surface finish to eliminate the scratches,
but be careful not to remove any of the stain below the clear
finish. Rub not only the scratched area but also the area
around it in gradually decreasing amounts. Be careful not
to rub edges or corners excessively; they wear through quickly.
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WIPE
AWAY all the Danish oil with rags or paper towels, then
thoroughly clean the entire surface with mineral spirits several
times to make sure all the oil is removed. If any oil remains,
the lacquer (Photo 3) won’t adhere. Allow the surface to dry
overnight before applying lacquer.
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SPRAY
the entire surface with clear lacquer. Move the spray can
in one continuous, straight stroke, allowing the spray to
extend beyond the edges in all directions. Wipe the nozzle
with a rag after each stroke to prevent drips. Move with the
grain, and make sure the angle of the spray remains the same
all the way across. Keep the spray aimed away from other surfaces
that you don’t want coated, or mask them with newspaper.
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| Caution:
Rags and steel wool saturated with Danish oil can spontaneously
combust if left bunched up. Dry them outdoors, spread out loosely.
When the oil has dried, you can safely throw the rags and steel
wool in the trash. |
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Fast Furniture Fixes • November
2002
© 2002 The Family Handyman Magazine ®

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