New kitchen
venting
Q I want to replace the
hood and exhaust fan above my stove, and need to vent it outside. However, the
stove is on an interior wall with cabinets above it. How do I route a vent to
get it outside my ranch-style house?
D. McDonald, via
e-mail
A You can
run the vent in several ways, but the rule of thumb is to route it the shortest
and straightest path to daylight. You’ll get the best airflow and the
least amount of grease buildup.
From the inside wall of a ranch house (one level), that
route usually means going up through the attic and out the roof. You could also
go up into the cabinet above the stove—then horizontally to the closest
exterior wall, either through the cabinets or in the area above the cabinets.
Unfortunately, running the vent that way eats up valuable cabinet space, and it
can be tricky to install, especially if you attempt to run it in the soffit
area because of obstacles.
Whichever route you choose, make sure the total duct length
doesn’t exceed the fan capacity. The owner’s manual will usually
tell you specifics on duct sizes and lengths.
First, plan your route. The safest way to check the attic
directly above the stove is to chuck an 18-in. section of straightened coat
hanger into a drill. Loosely hold the wire and direct it through the ceiling
drywall approximately where your vent pipe will go.
Go up in the attic, find the coat hanger and push insulation
aside to make sure there are no joists, electrical wiring or other building
materials that might block a 6-in. hole. Then examine the roof directly above
the wire to make sure there’s room to install a roof vent. Drop a plumb
bob down from the roof to the wire so you can find the approximate roof exit
location. You may have to shift the vent position several inches to avoid
ceiling and roof framing.
Back in the kitchen, mark the cabinets and cut holes for the
ducts. Attach all ductwork, then go up to the attic and reposition the plumb
bob so it drops straight into the middle of the pipe coming up from the
kitchen. Cut the hole for the duct, attach it, then install the roof cap. (See
“You Can Fix It,” June ’04, p. 12. To order a copy, see p.
5.)
If you live in an area where frost occurs, add an insulated
duct sleeve to the portion of pipe in the attic. Screw the ductwork together
with 1/4-in. sheet metal screws and seal the seams with aluminum-faced duct
tape (not regular, cloth-backed duct tape).
Finally, install the hood. Attach the transition duct to the
hood and make sure the damper flap operates freely. Lift the hood into place
and attach it to the wall. Then caulk around the vent pipe where it enters the
ceiling.
Painting kitchen
cabinets
Q We want to give new
life to our old wood kitchen cabinets with a fresh coat of paint. What is the
best type of paint to use?
Adam Sadowski, Des
Plaines, IL
A For the
best adhesion and a harder, more durable finish, an oil-based (alkyd) paint is
tough to beat for kitchen cabinets. But you must be willing to put up with the
strong odor and solvent cleanup, along with a longer drying and curing time
than you’d get if you used an ordinary water-based paint. Plus, the color
may yellow over time.
The best solution to avoid the hassle of oil-based paint is
a new-technology waterborne acrylic enamel paint (such as Satin Impervo by
Benjamin Moore) that delivers the good flow, leveling and hardening
characteristics of an oil-based paint without the odor and long drying time.
These new paints dry fast and clean up with soap and water. The main challenge
is a smooth finish, but pros say that if the water-borne acrylic enamel is
applied heavily enough and worked in small sections, it will flatten out
nicely. Avoid a dry brush and going over sections already starting to
dry.
Don’t forget other keys to success when painting
cabinets—surface preparation (degreasing, cleaning and sanding), priming
(use a top-quality primer), brushing (use the best-quality brush for the type
of paint) and drying (follow label directions). For more details on the
process, see “Renew Your Old Kitchen Cabinets,” March ’99,
p.32, or “Painting Woodwork,” Feb. ’03, p.54. To order
copies, see p. 5.
It’s
a mystery
Click Image to enlarge.
Q This spot appeared over
a year ago in the northeast corner of my garage ceiling. It has stayed the same
size and hasn’t changed at all. What is it, and what should I do about
it?
R.T. McClure, Carmel,
IN
A From
its splotchy appearance, the spot is more than likely mold. Your ceiling
drywall apparently got wet and stayed damp long enough for mold to grow. Since
the spot hasn’t grown, chances are this was a one-time occurrence,
perhaps from a hard rainstorm or an ice dam.
You could try to clean it with a strong detergent mix with
water (no bleach), but drywall is difficult to clean and the damage looks too
extensive. I’d cut out the damaged section and replace it only after
you’ve found and corrected the problem. Opening the area also allows you
to check for additional moisture as well as investigate the
cause.
If you can’t narrow the cause to a single event, like
a driving rainstorm or a thaw after a heavy snowfall (ice dam weather), check
the area directly above the damaged area, either the roof or an exterior wall
(if you have a second story) for potential water entry points. Look for gaps in
flashing around plumbing vents, dormers, chimneys or other roof penetrations,
gaps between trim and siding, a window with a rotted sill, damaged shingles or
other noticeable flaws. Or if you have an attic directly above the garage, go
up there with a flashlight and look for telltale water stains running down the
roof sheathing or rafters. There are many potential fixes; finding the cause is
usually the toughest part.
Is my level
accurate?
Q I’ve got an old
carpenter’s level and I’m not sure if it’s accurate. Is there
an easy way to check it?
B. Altman, via
e-mail
A Yes,
there’s a simple test. To check the “level” indicator in the
middle of the level, place the level on a flat surface and note where the
bubble sits. Now, spin the level around 180 degrees, making sure the level is
in the same spot. If the level is accurate, the bubble will be in exactly the
same spot. As you can see, the bubble in our level has shifted. This vial is no
longer accurate. Some vials you can adjust; others you
cannot.
You can check the level for plumb by following the same
procedure on a vertical surface.
Front
Back
Art Direction • GREGG
WEIGAND
Design • EVANGELINE
EKBERG
Photography • BILL
ZUEHLKE
Consultant • TOM
KLEIN, APPLIANCE SPECIALTIES INC.
