If you feel as if you’re living in a fish bowl when
you’re lounging on the patio, we’ve got the solution. This simple,
airy screen will block all but the most persistent prying eyes. It’ll
even block heavy wind, but it’s open enough to allow light and cooling
breezes through, so you won’t get that hemmed-in feeling you’d get
from a solid wall or fence.
Our privacy screen is 12 ft. long and about 7 ft. tall at
the highest point. But you can adapt the length or height to your own needs or
even mount a similar design on an existing deck.
If you’ve ever built a simple deck, trellis or just
about any other wooden garden structure, you have the skills and tools to
tackle this job. Most of the carpentry work just entails cutting standard
boards to length with a circular saw and then screwing the parts together with
a screw gun. In fact, if you stay focused, you can expect to finish the whole
project in a relatively sweat-free weekend.
In this article, we’ll show you a foolproof layout
technique using the horizontal rails to guide the post positioning and screen
assembly. With this simple system, a robust novice can build this project. You
can easily adapt it to any screen size. We’ll also show you a new
technique for setting solid, rot-resistant posts using dry concrete. And
we’ll demonstrate a simple method for making the curved, three-board top
using spacing blocks and scribing the curves with one of the top boards
(Photos 10–12).
To build your own screen, you’ll need a circular saw,
a screw gun and a sharp chisel, as well as a “clamshell” posthole
digger and a 2- or 4-ft. level for digging the four postholes and plumbing the
posts.
We chose to build our screen from rough-sawn cedar because
we wanted its decay-resistant qualities and rough look. The total materials
cost was about $400, but you can spend less by substituting smooth-faced cedar,
treated wood or even conventional framing lumber. Whatever you choose, use
treated wood for post parts that are in the ground so you won’t ever have
to worry about rot.
Planning Your Privacy Screen
We built our privacy screen on a level site, but you can
build a similar screen on just about any slope. For it to look best, keep the
rails level and then follow the slope with vertical pickets that are a
consistent distance from the ground.
Build your screen any length you wish. However, the longest
material you’ll be able to buy is 16 ft., so for longer screens,
you’ll have to splice the rails and top caps. If splicing is necessary,
plan it so the joints fall near the post centers, and splice opposite rails and
overlying top cap layers to fall on different posts. Add or delete posts as you
wish, but stick with our system for laying out post locations using chunks of
2x6 posts and 2x2 pickets to get the spacing right. However, keep the post
spacing less than 4 ft. for a highly rigid, wind-resistant
screen.
Materials List
|
ITEM
|
QTY.
|
|
Quick-set concrete (60-lb.
bags)
|
8
|
|
Gravel (40-lb.
bags)
|
4
|
|
2x6 x 12' treated (below-grade
posts)
|
2
|
|
2x4 x 12' treated (below-grade
posts)
|
4
|
|
2x6 x 8' cedar (outer
posts)
|
8
|
|
2x4 x 12' cedar (horizontal
rails)
|
4
|
|
2x2 x 10' cedar (pickets, top
caps)*
|
13
|
|
1x8 x 12' cedar (top
cap)
|
1
|
|
1x6 x 12' cedar (top
cap)
|
1
|
|
1x4 x 12' cedar (top
cap)
|
1
|
|
5-lb. box of 3" deck
screws
|
1
|
|
1-lb. box of 2" deck
screws
|
1
|
*Most lumberyards only carry 8-ft. or 4-ft. long 2x2s, which will leave a lot of
waste. If you have a table saw, consider buying fourteen 10-ft. long 2x4s and
ripping your own pickets to save money.
We don’t recommend building a higher screen,
especially in high-wind areas. But lower screens are sometimes preferable if
you’d like to see over the top while standing but want more privacy while
seated. Build a shorter screen using the same spacing techniques we show but
reduce the distance between the upper and lower rails.
The top cap for a shorter screen may require a gentler curve
because it’ll be difficult to bend the wood without breaking it. Try a
test bend. If you hear the wood crack or it takes too much force to make the
bend, simply cut the middle posts shorter until the wood bends without trouble.
If you don’t want to fuss with the bend or want to match other horizontal
elements in your yard, consider just cutting off the posts and screwing on a
flat top cap of solid 2x8.
Figure A Privacy Screen
Click image to enlarge.
Screen Section View
Post Base Detail
Detail 1 — Rail
Click image to enlarge.
You May Need a Permit
Chances are remote that you’ll need a building permit,
but check with the building department to make sure. If you need a fence
permit, it’ll include a list of fence rules that your screen has to
follow. If you live in a development that has building covenants, submit plans,
placement information and color selections to the architectural review
committee. Showing it the photos and drawings in this article along with
information on the specific spot for your screen should be adequate.
Don’t skip this step or you may end up restaining or even tearing down
your new screen.
Be sure to call to have the underground cables and gas lines
marked before you dig any postholes. Most states have a single toll-free number
you can call to get all the utilities marked. You can ask the building
department for the number, call the nationwide Dig Safely hot line at (888)
258-0808, or visit www.digsafely.com. Mark the screen’s position on the
ground with spray paint or stakes before the crew comes. Call ahead of time; it
generally takes two to three days to have utilities marked.
Selecting Materials
The sandwich post design we show features long-lasting
treated wood below grade and attractive rough-sawn cedar above (Figure A). If cedar isn’t available at
your lumberyard, you can substitute any other wood for the above-grade
materials or build the entire screen out of treated wood. All framing
materials, treated and untreated, will last longer and look better if you stain
everything, especially the cut ends.
When you’re selecting your lumber for the top cap
pieces, pay special attention to get sound 3/4-in. boards for the top cap
pieces—no cracks, splits or large knots. When you’re bending the
boards, knots or cracks may cause them to break under the stress (Photo 10).
Screws are the best way to put together a strong, durable
screen. But read the box to make sure you select ones that are designed for
decks. Other fasteners may corrode and leave ugly “bleed” marks on
the wood after a short time.
Lay Out and Notch the Rails
Before you dig the postholes, lay out and notch all four
horizontal rails as shown in
Photos 1 and 2.You’ll use the rails for
positioning, spacing and anchoring the posts, and later for placing the 2x2
pickets.
Lay out the rails by measuring 6 in. from one end and then
use a 2x6 block as a template to mark the first post notch. Use a 2x2 block to
mark a gap, then a picket, another gap and so on for nine pickets. Mark the
next post notch and then continue marking the rest of the pickets and posts.
After the last notch, measure 6 more inches and cut the rail to length. See
Figure A, Detail 1, for help. Cut off the
corners at 45 degrees on both ends of each board, then cut out the notches as
we show in
Photo 2.
Dig the Holes and Set the Posts
Lay the straightest rail on the ground and shift it until
you find the screen’s best position. Then drive stakes to hold it in
place and to mark the postholes (Photo 3).
Set the rail aside and then dig 3-ft. deep x 8-in. diameter postholes at each
notch location and pour about 6 in. of gravel into each hole.
Build the treated wood portion of the posts first (Figure A). Measure the hole depth and then cut
the outer 2x6s to project about 6 in. past the top of the holes, but let the
2x4 center posts run full length. You’ll cut all the post parts to length
later. Preassemble the treated posts with 3-in. deck screws. Keep the fasteners
8 in. or so below the top of the 2x6s to avoid hitting them with a saw blade
when you’re trimming them to length later. Reset the guide rail
(Photo 5) and use it and a level to position and
plumb the posts in each hole. After each post is positioned, hold them in place
with temporary screws driven into the guide rail.
Set the Posts in Dry Concrete
To avoid waiting for concrete to set up, you can fill around
the posts with dry concrete mix rather than pouring wet concrete. That way, you
can continue with the rest of the carpentry work and maybe even finish the
project in one day. Keep the top of the dry concrete a few inches below the top
of the hole. (You’ll need about two 60-lb. bags per hole.) When
you’re done working for the day, simply flood the top with the garden
hose and the concrete will set up overnight (Photo 13).
Don’t worry about trying to saturate the mix. Over time, the underlying
concrete will absorb enough moisture from the ground for complete
curing.
Mixes that are labeled for “post,”
“quick” or “fast” are the best ones to choose. But if
all you can find is regular premixed concrete, that’ll work fine
too.
TIP
Before you cut off the post tops,
drive two screws through the 2x6s above the cut marks. They’ll hold the
pieces in place so you don’t get bonked by the cutoffs.
Screw the Parts Together
You’ll be amazed at how fast the rest of the screen
goes together. That’s because you’ve already cut the notches for
the posts and marked the picket locations. It’s largely just a matter of
screwing all of the parts together as we show in
Photos 7–9. It really helps to prefinish
all the parts before laying out the rails and doing any assembly. We stained
everything with two coats of solid stain before any cutting, and stained the
notches and freshly cut ends before assembly for even more protection. That
cuts down on painting inside crevices and cutting in, particularly if you have
a two-tone color scheme like ours.
Cut off the treated 2x6s about 3 in. above grade (Photo 6), screw the 2x6 cedar outer posts on one
side of the 2x4s, and then screw two rails to one side of the posts using the
heights we show in
Figure A. Level the rails and sight down them to
make sure they’re straight before screwing them to the middle two posts.
Then plumb and brace the two end posts in both directions as we show in
Photo 7. The rails should hold the center posts
plumb as well, but if you have any stubborn ones, plumb and brace them, too.
The dry concrete mix will let you make minor adjustments.
Cut the 2x2 picket caps to length so they fit tightly
between the 2x4s. Then screwing on the 5-ft. long pickets will go fast. Just
push them against the top picket cap and use the marks on the rail to guide
their placement (Photo 8). Finally, screw on
the other post parts and rails. You’ll have to fudge a bit to get the
2x6s to match the rail notches. You may have to drag an assistant away from a
Simpsons episode to help you hold the 2x4 rails and wiggle them into
place.
Bending the Top Cap Boards
Bend the 1x4 top cap board to simulate the top curve and to
determine where to cut the posts. Center a screw on the end blocks so they can
pivot while you make the bend. It’s good to have the Simpsons fan on hand
for this step too. You’ll find it awkward to hold the spring-loaded 1x4
in position while reaching and scribing all four posts. Transfer the marks
around to the other side of the posts with a square and then cut off the posts
with a circular saw and handsaw (Photo 11).
Center the 1x8 top cap and screw it into each post with a
pair of 2-in. deck screws. Center and screw down the 1x6 and 1x4 top caps to
the posts, adding screws wherever gaps appear.
