Figure B Deck-Mounted Post
If you have a
deck that makes private gatherings feel like neighborhood events, don’t
fret. This privacy screen adapts easily to most decks. That’s because
most decks have a single rim joist that’s the same thickness as the
center 2x4 of the post. In most cases, you can easily remove an existing rail,
notch the decking and straddle the rim joist with the outer 2x6 of each post.
Brace the rim joist with blocking to at least the second and third joists back
to stiffen it as we show in Figure B. Lag-screwing the end posts to an existing
rail and the house will also greatly stabilize the
screen.
Deck sizes
vary widely, so to fill a side of a deck with a privacy screen, you’ll
need to work out the number and spacing of posts as well as the finished height
on your own. But a 7-ft. tall screen may look too high on a smallish deck. A
shorter height of 5 or 6 ft. will still give you reasonable privacy, especially
when you’re sitting at a table. Keep post spacing between 3 and 4 ft. if
possible.
Click image to enlarge.
1. Clamp the four 2x4 rails
together and mark the post and picket positions (see Figure A). Cut off the
remaining ends 6 in. beyond the last post.
2. Cut the
45-degree bevels on both ends. Flip over the rails and cut a series of 1-1/2
in. deep saw kerfs at the post locations, then break out the wood and flatten
the bottoms with a chisel.
3. Position the privacy panel
postholes by laying a rail on the ground and driving two stakes behind it. Then
drive stakes 2 in. away from the centers of the post notches to mark the
postholes.
Click image to enlarge.
4. Dig 8-in. diameter, 3-ft.
deep postholes. Reposition the rail over the holes, then screw the rail to the
positioning stakes and pour 6 in. of gravel into each hole.
5. Preassemble the 2x6 and 2x4
treated post bases and set them in the holes, nesting them into the rail
notches. Plumb each post and temporarily screw them to the guide
rail.
6. Pour dry concrete into each
hole until it’s 3 in. below grade. Mark and cut the 2x6s about 3 in.
above grade.
Click image to enlarge.
7. Screw the cedar 2x6s to one
side of the 2x4s, then level and screw the two back rails in place using Figure
A for the height details. Plumb and brace the posts in both
directions.
8. Cut the 2x2 picket top caps
to length and screw them to the 2x6 posts. Then push the pickets against the
top cap and screw them to both rails using your layout marks as a
guide.
9. Attach the front cedar 2x6
posts using the precut notches in the front top rail as a guide. Secure them
with 3-in. screws every 6 in.
Click image to enlarge.
10. Attach temporary blocks on
each end post and prop up a long 1x4 on a 16-in. block halfway between them.
Mark the post heights.
11. Transfer the lines to the
other side and cut off the posts from each side. Finish the 2x4 center cut with
a handsaw.
12. Cut the corners on the 1x8
top cap board, center it and screw it to the tops of the posts. Repeat the
steps with the 1x6 and 1x4 caps using Figure A for the
lengths.
Click image to enlarge.
13. Fill the holes with water
and let the panel sit overnight. Remove the braces and touch up raw wood and
screws with finish.
