Tough plants for paths
Q This summer, we’re planning to convert a trampled part of
our yard into a stone path. What can we plant between the stones that can handle foot traffic?
D.J. Brown, via e-mail
A Along with grass, there are quite a number of perennial
plants that can be grown between stones in a path. These plants can all tolerate some foot traffic: Creeping
Thyme/Mother-of-Thyme, Woolly Thyme, Carpet Bugleweed/Ajuga Reptans, Creeping Jenny/Creeping Charlie/Moneywort, Dead
Nettle/Creeping Lamium, Blue Star Creeper, Brass Buttons, Mazus Reptans and Sedum.
Click Image to enlarge.
To help you select the best ground cover, consider:
-
The amount of sunlight reaching your path (full sun,
partial shade, full shade), because different plants thrive under different conditions.
-
The amount of traffic the plants will need to endure.
Light traffic means the plants will be stepped on once or twice a week. Moderate traffic is once a day. And heavy traffic is
similar to walking on your lawn several times a day.
-
The type of soil (poor or rich) and moisture conditions
(wet or dry).
-
Appearance—plant height, texture and color. If the path
is heavily traveled, keep the plant height extremely low to prevent tripping.
Then take your list to a local nursery specialist to
walk you through the options best suited for your area. Also note how the plants grow and spread—to determine plant spacing
and the number of plants you need to buy. Be sure to avoid plants that are considered invasive species in your area, like
Creeping Jenny (Moneywort), which is listed as an invasive species in Tennessee, Wisconsin and the North-east.You can find
this list by visiting plants.usda.gov (click on “Invasive & Noxious”), or ask your local nursery
specialist.
Improve the growing conditions when you carve out the
soil for your new stone path. (See “Planning a Backyard Path,” April ’03, p. 45. To order a copy, see p. 9.) It’s difficult to
grow anything in a trampled area. The soil gets so compacted that roots cannot deliver water and nutrients to the plant. Add
good drainage as well as a layer of topsoil at least 1 in. deep around the stones so your ground cover can
thrive.
Finally, help your new ground cover prosper with a
weekly soaking (the plants need to stay moist) and a weekly hand weeding. And if you’d like to keep the plants short between
the stones, consider varieties that tolerate mowing, such as thyme and ajuga.
Here are two Web sites that offer good, customized
information on traffic-tolerant plants for various hardiness zones: www.jeeperscreepers.info and
www.stepables.com.
Creeping
Thyme
(Mother-of-Thyme)
Thymus serpyllum
Zones: 4 through 9 (most of U.S.)
Height: 2 to 4 in.
Plant spreads 12 in.
Full sun to shade Withstands heavy
traffic
Carpet
Bugleweed
(Ajuga)
Ajuga reptans
Zones: 3 through 9
Height: 4 to 6 in.
Plant spreads 12 to 18 in.
Full sun to partial shade Withstands moderate
traffic
Creeping
Jenny
(Creeping Charlie, Moneywort)
Lysimachia nummularia
Zones: 4 through 8
Height: 2 to 4 in.
Plant spreads 18 to 23 in.
Partial shade Withstands moderate
traffic
Dead
Nettle
(Creeping Lamium)
Lamium maculatum
Zones: 4 through 8
Height: 6 to 8 in.
Plant spreads 12 to 23 in.
Partial to full shade Withstands moderate
traffic
Hidden deck fasteners
Q I like the look of a deck surface without exposed nail- or screwheads. A local
deck builder recommends the Eb-Ty system. Is it worth the extra money?
J. Arnold, via e-mail
A I like the fastener-free appearance as well. If you’re building an upscale
deck with an expensive tropical hardwood or clear cedar, I think the Eb-Ty system is worth the added money. In this system, a
biscuit edge-fastens boards to one another and to joists with the precision of a cabinetmaker’s biscuit system (see photo). The tough, black, UV-resistant
polypropylene biscuit is practically invisible in the 3/32-in. space between boards. The result is a beautiful, unmarred deck
surface.
Click Image to enlarge.
The Eb-Ty black plastic biscuits
edge-fasten deck boards together. Each biscuit is screwed into the joist below, where they are almost
invisible.
However, you must be willing to shell out some dough
for the fasteners ($1 per sq. ft. of deck). And you will have to buy (or perhaps rent) a biscuit joiner. Your labor hours will
add up quickly too. You have to precision-cut slots into each side of every deck board at every joist, apply adhesive to the
joist under each board, and insert the biscuits and screw them into the joists. Consequently, decking fastened with the Eb-Ty
system will take you two to three times longer to install than basic decking attached with screws.
Deck pros who have used this system recommend careful
wood selection because warped boards make attachment more difficult. And avoid wet lumber (with a moisture content greater
than 15 percent) because radical shrinkage may compromise the adhesive bond.
For more information, check out www.ebty.com or call (888)
438-3289.
Fix a chipped sink
Q Unfortunately I dropped a kettle and chipped our white enamel and cast iron
kitchen sink. I’d like to repair it so it’s fairly invisible. Can you help me?
T. Johnson, via e-mail
A I know the sinking feeling, having chipped one myself hardly a year after
installation. Puns aside, it’s fairly easy and inexpensive to repair chips so they’re almost invisible. You can find
two-component epoxy (catalyst and hardener) in the adhesive section of most hardware stores and home centers. It’s usually
available in a variety of colors. If necessary, two colors can be mixed for a more precise match.
First, scrub the chipped area thoroughly with a sponge
and soapy water. Then rub 400- to 600-grit “wet-and-dry” sandpaper over the damaged area to remove dirt and rust, as well as
rough up the chip so epoxy will stick to it. Next, mix the two epoxy ingredients according to label
directions.
Use a wooden matchstick or small brush to fill the
chip. If the chip is deep, apply the material in several coats, and don’t forget to allow for the drying time specified on the
label. Once the repair is complete, wait 24 hours before you use the sink, and don’t scrub that area for seven
days.
What to remodel first
Q We plan to stay in our house for three to five years. When it comes to resale
value, is it better to upgrade a kitchen or a bath?
W. Michalek, via e-mail
A You can’t go wrong upgrading either room. You’ll usually recoup most of the
bathroom and kitchen remodeling dollars you spend. In fact, if you do all the work yourself and do a first-class job, you’ll
recoup the cost of almost any upgrade. The chart below lists the cost recovery rate by project in 2003; however, these numbers
can be optimistic and misleading. Many other factors influence resale value and the value of improvements, including the
location, current real estate market, interest rates, the economy and more.
A simple strategy I’ve used successfully (with four
houses and one hobby farm) is to improve the main areas that look rough or abused, and are less than comfortable for me and my
family. For example, if the kitchen is shabby, poorly lit or lacking counter space, make that a priority. Likewise, if a small
bathroom has a bulky vanity and a tiny mirror, replace them with a space-saving pedestal sink and a large mirror to add visual
space.
Make a priority list, then work your way down it until
your home feels comfortable. It may take three to five years or longer, but the results will be gratifying. Your home will
look and work better and should be easier to sell with each project completed. Or you just might wind up staying put because
you’ve made your home too wonderful to leave.
Percentage of cost recovered—2003 (National
average)
|
Deck addition
|
104
|
|
Siding replacement
|
98
|
|
Bathroom addition
|
95
|
|
Attic bedroom
|
93
|
|
Bathroom remodel
|
91
|
|
Window replacement
|
86
|
|
Family room addition
|
81
|
|
Kitchen remodel
|
80
|
|
Basement remodel
|
79
|
|
Master suite
|
77
|
Treated-wood safety
Q I’ve read that arsenic is no longer used in treated wood. Is the treated-wood
play structure I built several years ago safe for my kids?
M. Handley, via e-mail
A There’s no need to panic or tear down your play structure, since the health
risk from the arsenic is low, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. However, the EPA has taken the precaution of
eliminating any exposure to the arsenic found in chromated copper arsenate (CCA) treated wood. It banned the use of this wood
preservative by the end of 2003 in materials commonly found around the home.
Click Image to enlarge.
Check the labels on treated wood (or
ask the retailer) for the type of chemical used. The label also tells you the handling precautions to
follow.
If this low risk still concerns you, you can apply an
oil-based penetrating stain every couple of years to seal the wood. Instruct your kids to keep their hands out of their mouth
during play, and then to wash their hands with soap when they’re finished playing.
Two common arsenic-free preservatives that will replace
CCA are alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) and copper azole (CBA or CA-B). Both appear to resist bugs, mold and rot as
effectively as CCA. The downside is that, since these preservatives contain more copper, the wood will be more corrosive to
nails, screws and other hardware.
Always follow the handling precautions on the label:
Wear a dust mask and goggles when cutting or sanding, wear gloves when working with treated wood, and toss scraps for regular
trash collection. Also, do not burn treated wood.
Art Direction • GREGG WEIGAND
Photography • BILL ZUEHLKE
Consultants • KATHY GRUBBS, THE GARDEN LADY; PETER LUCAS, DECK BUILDER
